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Member Since: Mar 27, 2006
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact Eric Whitbeck


Point Rank: # 1,840
Total Points: 308
Last Year: 49
Last 30 Days: 0
30 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Eric Whitbeck been climbing?










Contributions


All 296 | Routes 8 | Areas 5 | Photos 10 | Page Improvments | Comments 103 | Posts 129 | Stars 30 | Ratings 11
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : Photo
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: For the record, the FA party of Wizard of Odd gave us permission to add the bolts Chris mentioned. Obviously you don't need to clip them if you are concerned with doing some "true" version of Wizard of Odd. If you did clip them then it is odd to say they should not be there.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Vision Quest (5.10d PG13)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Oct 10, 2012

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Comments: Awesome route. I remember sitting at the base after finishing and watching two really tough guys in the midst of an attempt to climb all the summits at the Jacks in one day. The leader pulled open a massive jar of ravioli and just shoveled it down then cast off the layback on pitch one. His partner put him on belay on the trail rope accidentally. The leader got up into the crux, I noticed the error, and told the belayer. He yelled to the leader and told him what was up. Without pause, he j... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Sep 18, 2012

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Comments: Permadraw the whole crag? The inevitable follow up question "really?" "Come on really?"


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (06) The Dihedral Wall : Lucky Boy (5.11c)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Sep 14, 2012

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Comments: Chinese food joint in town


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : South/Southeast (Right) Fac... : The B.F.G. (5.13)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Sep 7, 2012

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Comments: Cool, it may end up being the line since it is more direct and stays on the arete and in the steeps. No one climbs Goliath to get to the slab, but because of the position and BFG seems like a great continuation. Funny how these things sit around for years sometimes. It seems like a very obvious extension/variation.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : South/Southeast (Right) Fac... : The B.F.G. (5.13)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Sep 6, 2012

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Comments: Why two stars? It looked pretty cool from the old line. Does it just need traffic?


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : South/Southeast (Right) Fac... : Goliath (5.13a)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Sep 1, 2012

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Comments: Mono, I say the first pitch is between b and c and is the standard for sport 12 in nm.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : 45 Boulder : Beastmaster (5.12c)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Sep 1, 2012

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Comments: I think it is a funky route and is fine being funky. The crux jug is a bit crumbly. Is the norm to lower in and place the draws? The double draw worked fine but I hung it on rap otherwise I agree with dtp or I guess you could do the crux without clipping and clip off the jug. That would be fun.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : 45 Boulder : Beastmaster (5.12c)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Aug 29, 2012

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Comments: If George is projecting it and it is one of the harder lines he has tried than it is probably fine. My comment stems from the fact that DTP, a pretty strong lad, and the FA mentioned the problem of clipping. We have enough wacky routes in NM that if it is really a classic 12+ then it makes sense to make it as good as possible. Maybe DTP can chime in on if he thinks moving the bolt would solve the problem. I hope to try this route saturday and will post if it seems sketchy or not.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : 45 Boulder : Beastmaster (5.12c)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Aug 28, 2012

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Comments: Why not move the bolt and make a four star route?


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Loose Cannon (5.13a)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: I certainly hung, but was too concerned with the moves to actually look at the biner. The description describes a chain draw. If it is dangerous it should get fixed because people certainly fall there. I am guessing the chain draw that used to be there was for convenience, but also serves a better purpose: to keep the biners from breaking. That would suck. Add a chain draw Lee. If nothing else it will give people something to argue about when they are bored at their desk jobs.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Loose Cannon (5.13a)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Aug 26, 2012

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Comments: There is no chain draw but if the underling move is a show stopper you can probably clean that bolt off a nearby anchor


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : The Temple
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Aug 24, 2012

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Comments: I actually don't even give one. Anything more than 10' tall probably counts as a big wall to anyone who hangs at the temple.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : The Temple
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Aug 24, 2012

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Comments: The funny thing about chippers and gluers is that they are not content to just chip and glue, which everyone knows can't be stopped, but they actually want everyone else to think it is cool. You can chip and glue all you want but you surely can't expect people to stop making fun of you for it. Highschool was probably tough huh? Like they said back in the day "you might pull pretty hard, but until you climb a big wall you're still kind of a lightweight."


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : The Temple
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Aug 23, 2012

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Comments: David, how is Jeremy's reaction to chuffies posts any different from your reaction to his?


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : The Temple
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Aug 23, 2012

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Comments: Sweet. It has been way too long without a debate about glue and chiseling in ABQ. Long Live the Chisel and the glue pot. Anyone can climb natural holds.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Hole in the Wall : Another Pair of New Shoes (5.11b/c)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Aug 10, 2012

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Comments: Certainly just bad beta. The new info is correct.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Loose Cannon (5.13a)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Jul 4, 2012

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Comments: A consensus is nice, but if it is a safety issue and it is sport climbing so it should be safe, than I think Lee should just fix it. Who cares if a bolt is moved four inches? Especially if he is willing to do it. There is a similar bolt at Tres that I should have fixed years ago, but instead it just sits there with the draw hanging over an edge.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Andy Boy Wall
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Jun 29, 2012

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Comments: Lee and Jeremy climbing together? What a wonderful world..


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Five Years After (5.9 PG13)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Jun 18, 2012

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Comments: Oh come on William and you know Semen Girl is the Astroman of northern NM.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Jun 18, 2012

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Comments: Anyone know if TBOL, or whatever the left most of the four steep routes is called, was also put up by Doug and Lee? The first bolt is suspect, the second is a joke, and the large flake which looks like it would eat up a big cam is a bit hollow. Its fine for climbing but putting a cam back there is about as safe as the button head below. FA party opposed to upgrading the hardware? No additional gear and same placements, just modern?
Thanks


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Ocho Diamentes (Tech-No-Sta... (5.12-)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Jun 18, 2012

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Comments: Doug or Lee,
Any opinion on upgrading the anchor? The tree is ok, but the slings are ugly and the tree is not going to last forever. I actually think this route is better than the two stars given, but what do I know. Anyway, how about a nice modern anchor up there. Would you guys be opposed?
Thanks for the nice lines. This and the three others to the left are my favorite routes at Tres.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Crystal Cave
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Jun 8, 2012

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Comments: Nice job Bryan. Removing the fixed hardware sounds like a great gesture.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Tres Piedras Bouldering
By: Eric Whitbeck When: May 24, 2012

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Comments: If you are posting photos, why not post an overview topo?


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Northern ... : Las Vegas / El Porvenir : Hermits Peak : Hermit's Cave : Thai Cookin' (5.11d PG13)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Apr 20, 2012

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Comments: What no repeats of this route? We thought we were putting up another Prince of Darkness and that it would be mobbed on every weekend.


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