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Member Since: Mar 27, 2006
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact Eric Whitbeck


Point Rank: # 1,894
Total Points: 318
Last Year: 13
Last 30 Days: 2
32 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Eric Whitbeck been climbing?










Contributions


All 329 | Routes 8 | Areas 5 | Photos 10 | Page Improvements | Comments 113 | Posts 143 | Stars 39 | Ratings 11
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : The Temple
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Aug 23, 2012

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Comments: Sweet. It has been way too long without a debate about glue and chiseling in ABQ. Long Live the Chisel and the glue pot. Anyone can climb natural holds.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Hole in the Wall : Another Pair of New Shoes (5.11b/c)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Aug 10, 2012

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Comments: Certainly just bad beta. The new info is correct.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Loose Cannon (5.13a)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Jul 4, 2012

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Comments: A consensus is nice, but if it is a safety issue and it is sport climbing so it should be safe, than I think Lee should just fix it. Who cares if a bolt is moved four inches? Especially if he is willing to do it. There is a similar bolt at Tres that I should have fixed years ago, but instead it just sits there with the draw hanging over an edge.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Andy Boy Wall
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Jun 29, 2012

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Comments: Lee and Jeremy climbing together? What a wonderful world..


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Five Years After (5.9 PG13)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Jun 18, 2012

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Comments: Oh come on William and you know Semen Girl is the Astroman of northern NM.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Jun 18, 2012

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Comments: Anyone know if TBOL, or whatever the left most of the four steep routes is called, was also put up by Doug and Lee? The first bolt is suspect, the second is a joke, and the large flake which looks like it would eat up a big cam is a bit hollow. Its fine for climbing but putting a cam back there is about as safe as the button head below. FA party opposed to upgrading the hardware? No additional gear and same placements, just modern?
Thanks


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Ocho Diamentes (Tech-No-Sta... (5.12-)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Jun 18, 2012

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Comments: Doug or Lee,
Any opinion on upgrading the anchor? The tree is ok, but the slings are ugly and the tree is not going to last forever. I actually think this route is better than the two stars given, but what do I know. Anyway, how about a nice modern anchor up there. Would you guys be opposed?
Thanks for the nice lines. This and the three others to the left are my favorite routes at Tres.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Jemez Cave (a.k.a. Crystal ...
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Jun 8, 2012

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Comments: Nice job Bryan. Removing the fixed hardware sounds like a great gesture.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Tres Piedras Bouldering
By: Eric Whitbeck When: May 24, 2012

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Comments: If you are posting photos, why not post an overview topo?


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Northern ... : Las Vegas / El Porvenir : Hermits Peak : Hermit's Cave : Thai Cookin' (5.11d PG13)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Apr 20, 2012

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Comments: What no repeats of this route? We thought we were putting up another Prince of Darkness and that it would be mobbed on every weekend.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Frog Prince
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Mar 10, 2012

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Comments: Thanks for the story Bill. I do not want to start a debate about fixed draws/chains. I just did not like the visual impact of the duct tape draws nor have I ever really liked clipping into some old draw that has been hanging out in the sun for years. I am sure Jeremy and I are in the minority on this and most people like them. If you hang draws on the tower that route always tends to stay busy. The upgrade to a camo chain seems the logical answer, but I guess even that does not stop someone... more >>


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Frog Prince
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Mar 6, 2012

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Comments: Tat:You mean something that you might clip into and lower off if you were pumped out of your mind, your feet were screaming and you just dreamed of reaching the ground, then when your partner cleans the route they want to hurl because they are tr'ing on...tat. I am still sorry about that one..Anyway, anything but the ridiculous tin foil rigs that were up before.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Fat City, Indian School : Upper Fat City Drainage : Brachiation (V0)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Feb 20, 2012

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Comments: Come on..bouldering in the Sandias? Really? There is no bouldering out there.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : Filet de Papillon Wall AKA ... : Full Penetration (5.12d)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Feb 15, 2012

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Comments: Try not to get a disease clipping the anchors.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : U-Mound
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Feb 8, 2012

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Comments: The U mound takes a beating again. This is another good reason to explore the other areas in the foothills. Far less likely to see this stuff at Simms, Fat City or the Gun. Those areas have better problems as well.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Clandestine Wall : Cat Daddy (5.13-)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Jan 13, 2012

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Comments: W, you know forgetting pain and difficulty is the key to longevity in the alpine and big wall game. Does open bivying really suck or is it a pleasant night under the stars?


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Clandestine Wall : Cat Daddy (5.13-)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Jan 11, 2012

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Comments: Thanks for the vote of confidence and it may be more of an issue of getting to try, but I still think that boulder problem is tough. I was pleasantly surprised that the climbing up to the boulder problem is not really that hard and quite fun.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Three Gun (Tres Pistolas) : Hawkwatch Trail : ... : American Music (V6)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Jan 10, 2012

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Comments: The better rock seems to be either on the ridge itself where it is getting weathered by wind or in a drainage where it is polished by water. I am not sure that helps, but it seems to lead to the better stuff. I may have seen that boulder if it had a steep north face but not much feature. My theory remains that if the boulder has one really nice problem then it is worth developing and other stuff naturally follows, but if there is not a line that is worth dragging a friend out to, then it is p... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Clandestine Wall : Cat Daddy (5.13-)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Jan 10, 2012

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Comments: Nice job Mick. Best cragging pitch in the Sandias? I wish I could climb the thing clean.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Three Gun (Tres Pistolas) : Hawkwatch Trail : ... : American Music (V6)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Jan 9, 2012

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Comments: There may be more good climbing in the area. I have not explored much but some of the higher stuff on the trail looks interesting and there may be some other stuff at the same elevation to the east.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Three Gun (Tres Pistolas) : Hawkwatch Trail : ... : American Music (V6)
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Jan 5, 2012

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Comments: Sure Claude, just follow around the old guys flashing all the problems. Thanks for submitting the photos. Keep looking around and I am sure you will find at least one sweet rock out there.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Apache Canyon Bouldering
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Oct 30, 2011

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Comments: Isn't the classic arete just uphill from the streambed. If you are facing the streambed turn around and find the trail uphill. There is an overhanging arete with pockets that I remember as outstanding. I don't know the name, but the grade is around V5. It starts low left and goes up and right to a nice mantle finish.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Tres Piedras Bouldering : Photo
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Oct 14, 2011

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Comments: Thanks Tim for the correction. It is in the climbing area correct?


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Tres Piedras Bouldering : Photo
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Oct 10, 2011

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Comments: I think it is the Fin and actually should be in the book since it is in the mix with the climbing. Maybe the problem is called ghetto simulator?


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : The TV Station
By: Eric Whitbeck When: Sep 26, 2011

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Comments: What makes the area sensitive? Who "needs to know?" about any crag? Please enlighten.


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