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The rail of Dracula. Classic moves


Member Since: Aug 30, 2010
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 1,804
Total Points: 330
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 199 | Routes 20 | Areas 1 | Photos 16 | Page Improvements | Comments 35 | Posts 10 | Stars 98 | Ratings 19
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : Europe : France : Ceuse : Secture Berlin : Blocage Violent (5.12b/c)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: For what it worth, I didn't think there was anything 12b about this route. Not sure why there is a slash grade on MP, but I think most would agree that this route is certainly 12c (and a hard one at that).


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : Chain Reaction (5.12c) : Photo
By: Eric Schnepel When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: I'm not completely sure, but I think that is an obscure and rarely climbed route called Train Tree Action. It's located in the Trihedrals.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Aggro Gully : Disposable Heros (5.13a)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Apr 30, 2014

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Comments: Four rest spots if you're Ryan Palo. . .

. . .and you include the ground and the jug at the anchors.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Aggro Gully : Disposable Heros (5.13a)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Apr 30, 2014

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Comments: I think 13b seems fair for this one. I definitely don't agree with the 13c given in the guidebook, but I think it is a bit of a sandbag at 13a. The "power-endurance" nature of Disposable puts it in the same vein as Times Up and Churning in my mind, but I found it to be more difficult than either of these routes. The lack of feet at the rest jug above the roof makes for a not-so-relaxing break and it's all business from there to the chains. Having watched quite a few friends (of all sizes) climb ... more >>


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (1) North Face : Dark Tower (5.13)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Apr 15, 2014

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Comments: This is a fantastic route that really deserves more attention. Although Broughton may not be the greatest crag on earth, it has a handful of outstanding lines that are too often overlooked by Portland climbers. I would certainly include DT in this collection. Anyone climbing the grade should seriously consider giving this thing some time. It's all cleaned up for the year and I've left my draws hanging to hopefully entice some more traffic.

Overview of the line: Climb the enjoyable 5.9, Frodo's ... more >>


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : Wild Turkeys (5.13a R)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Aug 30, 2013

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Comments: Great work Matt! Proud send.


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Rat Cave : The Stiffler (5.13a)
By: Eric Schnepel When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: Consensus on Stifler is .13b. It's still no soft tick at that!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Cocaine Gully : The Blade (5.12a)
By: Eric Schnepel When: May 29, 2012

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Comments: I got on this yesterday and noticed that the first bolt off the ledge is fairly suspect. It spins in its hole and is quite wobbley. As it is the only bolt keeping climbers out of the chasm below, I would recommend stick clipping the second as well. Also, the last bolt on the route is missing its hanger. Super fun route, though.


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (5) Bat Wall : Lost Boys (5.10d)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Apr 22, 2012

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Comments: Ben. . .
I agree with you. Even with the sequence figured out, I would say Lost Boys is a bit sandy at 10d. 11a/b seems fair. Most routes on the Bat Wall feel a letter grade stiff in my opinion, but I think Lost Boys is a bit beyond that.

Eric


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : Moondance (5.11c)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Oct 25, 2011

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Comments: Good stuff. Probably would have been a good idea to stick clip. The lower slab climbs well with some delicate edging and usual smith crimpin. At the halfway point, the climb completely changes character. The tricky stems should keep you thinkin!


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Rat Cave : Warm Up (5.12b)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Oct 25, 2011

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Comments: It'd be a hard 12a to the first anchors. Consensus these days seems to be 12b to the first and harder (12c/d?) to the second.


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Rat Cave : Pissfire (5.11d)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Oct 25, 2011

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Comments: Actually pretty fun. Way more jugs than anything else out there. Time to RP it 100 more times and get it ruthlessly dialed. . . Feels like hard 11 by RC standards.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock
By: Eric Schnepel When: Sep 12, 2011

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Comments: I'm in!


Location: OR : Mt Hood : French's Dome : The Dark Side (AKA The Sieg... (5.12c)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Aug 3, 2011

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Comments: Super fun route. Maybe the best on the Dome; if a bit chossy. Definitely much more powerful than Pump-o-rama, but much less pumpy. I would say the bouldery and sequential moves down low definitely make it a notch more difficult than Pump. Maybe 12c minus


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Carver : Carver Cliff : Rockgarden Wall : Uncola (5.11c)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Jul 29, 2011

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Comments: This thing was so dirty today. The upper slab was mostly covered in moss and I had to climb through a bush to clip the chains ha. Made for some extra fun! I will be back with a brush soon. Super fun route with unique movement.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Monkey Face : Spank the Monkey (5.12a PG13)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Jun 29, 2011

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Comments: WOW! This thing is the full package. The position, excitement, and rock quality are unbelievable. The movement is great too. A few of the falls would be pretty dang ugly/dangerous.


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (5) Bat Wall : Manson Family Reunion (5.12d)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Jun 14, 2011

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Comments: Wow. Can't believe how rad this route is. Doesn't get much better than this around Portland. Pretty much a 12a with a 3 move V5 thrown in at the bottom. The movement through this crux is explosive and awesome. It really is some of the coolest movement I have experienced on a rope. The rest of the route climbs well too. Tried linking straight into it from Dracula and got serious rope drag towards the top. It works much better to pull the rope through the 'draws, have your belayer move a few feet ... more >>


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Carver : Carver Bouldering : Bonzi Boulders : Gut Crunch (V5)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Jun 8, 2011

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Comments: Broken Hold! The left hand bump is now gone. It makes the problem a little more difficult, but more fun and skin friendly.


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Carver : Carver Bouldering : Main Forest : Triangle Face (V6-7)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Jun 8, 2011

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Comments: This problem is SO rad. Head and shoulders above anything else at Carver. Definitely NOT V5 however. Try V6/7.



Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (3) Red Wall : Pinhead (5.11d)
By: Eric Schnepel When: May 25, 2011

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Comments: This route is rad. Without a doubt the best thing I have climbed around Portland. Great movement and super aesthetic rock, this thing would be a classic anywhere. Seemed to be on the upper end of 5.11d and harder than Kashmir.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Shipwreck Wall : Blue Light Special (5.11a)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Apr 13, 2011

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Comments: The second clip is for sure the crux. That undercling is POLISHED. Found a knee-bar with a foot in the hole out right that made this thing pretty casual, but I still think it tends more towards 11b.


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Carver : Carver Bouldering : Bonzi Boulders : Gut Crunch (V5)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Apr 2, 2011

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Comments:



Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Carver : Carver Bouldering : Bonzi Boulders : Skidmark (V3)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Apr 2, 2011

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Comments:



Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Carver : Carver Bouldering : Main Forest : Carver Classic (V4)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Mar 23, 2011

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Comments:



Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Volcanic Tablelands (Happy/... : Happy Boulders : ... : Solarium (V3)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Mar 19, 2011

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Comments: Felt like soft v4 to me


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