Contributed Comments |
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Location: OR : Rat Cave : The Stiffler (5.13a)
By: Eric Schnepel When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Consensus on Stifler is .13b. It's still no soft tick at that!
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Cocaine Gully : The Blade (5.12a)
By: Eric Schnepel When: May 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got on this yesterday and noticed that the first bolt off the ledge is fairly suspect. It spins in its hole and is quite wobbley. As it is the only bolt keeping climbers out of the chasm below, I would recommend stick clipping the second as well. Also, the last bolt on the route is missing its hanger. Although I believe falling without that bolt clipped would be clean and safe, It does make the undercling move at the top a bit exciting. Super fun route, though.
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Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : Lost Boys (5.10d)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Apr 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ben. . .
I agree with you. Even with the sequence figured out, I would say Lost Boys is a bit sandy at 10d. 11a/b seems fair. Most routes on the Bat Wall feel a letter grade stiff in my opinion, but I think Lost Boys is a bit beyond that.
Eric
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : Moondance (5.11c)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Oct 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good stuff. Probably would have been a good idea to stick clip. The lower slab climbs well with some delicate edging and usual smith crimpin. At the halfway point, the climb completely changes character. The tricky stems should keep you thinkin!
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Location: OR : Rat Cave : Warm Up (5.12b)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Oct 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: It'd be a hard 12a to the first anchors. Consensus these days seems to be 12b to the first and harder (12c/d?) to the second.
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Location: OR : Rat Cave : Pissfire (5.11d)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Oct 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually pretty fun. Way more jugs than anything else out there. Time to RP it 100 more times and get it ruthlessly dialed. . . Feels like hard 11 by RC standards.
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Location: OR : Beacon Rock
By: Eric Schnepel When: Sep 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm in!
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Location: OR : French's Dome : Darkness (5.12c)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Aug 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super fun route. Maybe the best on the Dome; if a bit chossy. Definitely much more powerful than Pump-o-rama, but much less pumpy. I would say the bouldery and sequential moves down low definitely make it a notch more difficult than Pump. Maybe 12c minus
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Location: OR : Carver : Carver Cliff : Rockgarden Wall : Uncola (5.11c)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Jul 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing was so dirty today. The upper slab was mostly covered in moss and I had to climb through a bush to clip the chains ha. Made for some extra fun! I will be back with a brush soon. Super fun route with unique movement.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Monkey Face : Spank the Monkey (5.12a PG13)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Jun 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: WOW! This thing is the full package. The position, excitement, and rock quality are unbelievable. The movement is great too. A few of the falls would be pretty dang ugly/dangerous.
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Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : Manson Family Reunion (5.12d)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Jun 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow. Can't believe how rad this route is. Doesn't get much better than this around Portland. Pretty much a 12a with a 3 move V5 thrown in at the bottom. The movement through this crux is explosive and awesome. It really is some of the coolest movement I have experienced on a rope. The rest of the route climbs well too. Tried linking straight into it from Dracula and got serious rope drag towards the top. It works much better to pull the rope through the 'draws, have your belayer move a few feet ... more >>
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Location: OR : Carver : Carver Bouldering : Bonzi Boulders : Gut Crunch (V5)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Jun 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Broken Hold! The left hand bump is now gone. It makes the problem a little more difficult, but more fun and skin friendly.
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Location: OR : Carver : Carver Bouldering : Main Forest : Triangle Face (V5+)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Jun 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This problem is SO rad. Head and shoulders above anything else at Carver. Definitely NOT V5 however. Try V6/7.
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Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : Pinhead (5.11d)
By: Eric Schnepel When: May 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is rad. Without a doubt the best thing I have climbed around Portland. Great movement and super aesthetic rock, this thing would be a classic anywhere. Seemed to be on the upper end of 5.11d and harder than Kashmir.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Shipwreck Wall : Blue Light Special (5.11a)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Apr 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The second clip is for sure the crux. That undercling is POLISHED. Found a knee-bar with a foot in the hole out right that made this thing pretty casual, but I still think it tends more towards 11b.
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Location: OR : Carver : Carver Bouldering : Bonzi Boulders : Gut Crunch (V5)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Apr 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments:
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Location: OR : Carver : Carver Bouldering : Bonzi Boulders : Skidmark (V3)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Apr 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments:
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Location: OR : Carver : Carver Bouldering : Main Forest : Carver Classic (V4)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Mar 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments:
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Volcanic Tablelands (Happy/... : Happy Boulders : ... : Solarium (V3)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Mar 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Felt like soft v4 to me
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Birthday Direct (V3)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Mar 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not so bad. Easier for tall people
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Pollen Grains / Lidija Boul... : ... : Jedi Mind Tricks (V4 PG13)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Mar 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The reach to the jug up top is so satisfying. . .
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Crash Landing (5.11a)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Mar 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty fun thin face moves. The challenges end quickly however. Would be a really good first 5.11 for the technically oriented climber.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Expressway (5.11b)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Mar 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good and fun 5.11 climbing all the way up. Decent rest stances can be found almost at will.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : From Chocolate to Morphine (5.11d)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Mar 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A little pumpy, but good rests can be found. There are probably 4 holds that aren't jugs on the entire route, but they come right at the end. Easy to be lead astray by dummy holds up top. Stay to the left of the roofs.
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Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : Kashmir (5.12a)
By: Eric Schnepel When: Feb 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great position and beautiful red grippy rock. Very straightforward for a Broughton route.
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