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Member Since: Sep 13, 2012
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
Contact Eric "Pig" Varley


Point Rank: # 8,969
Total Points: 26
Last Year: 20
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Eric "Pig" Varley been climbing?










Eric "Pig" Varley

 
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Contributions


All 96 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 1 | Page Improvments | Comments 11 | Posts 12 | Stars 57 | Ratings 14

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : Church Bowl Lieback (5.8)
By: Eric "Pig" Varley When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: Very fun route with straight forward lieback climbing. If leading it on nuts, bringing a few extra medium (finger) sized nuts would be ideal. I was on a set of BD nuts and only had the smallest 2 and largest 2 left over at the end of the route. I also brought some small cams (C3 #0-#2), which came in handy after I accidentally kicked a piece out while firing the crux.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Cyclops Rock : Spaghetti & Chili (5.7)
By: Eric "Pig" Varley When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: Super fun climb and can be very well protected. But since when did a 5.7 have a 5.9 crux? Getting out from under the flake and establishing the lieback stance is very tenuous. The last time I did a vertical 5.7 lieback, I had this little thing called foot holds. Whatever, J-tree ratings don't seem to mean anything anyway.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Cyclops Rock : Penelope's Walk (5.6)
By: Eric "Pig" Varley When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: Terrible climb with sections of deteriorating granite. The route is very difficult to protect as the features on scarce, small, and flaring. I placed a tipped out nut in the "crack" just before the traverse out left as it's the only thing that I could place there. A fall on the 5.6/5.7 slab traverse would have pulled the piece and resulted in a nasty fall.

I gave the route an "R" rating because, while you can place gear, little of it is any good. I would be surprised if my gear held a fall.... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Right On (5.5 PG13)
By: Eric "Pig" Varley When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: I agree with DaveGustafson. This route is dangerously under-rated. The first pitch is easily 5.8 slab climbing, if not harder. Add to that the potential to deck before clipping the first bolt, and you're in for a big and unpleasant surprise. Past the bolt, it just gets harder on semi-decent feet and barely functional hand holds, and remains sustained until you hit the crack. A fall before the crack would also be unfavorable and you'd hit the apron below.

P1 - 5.8X/5.9R slab climbing.
P2 - ... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Courtright Reservoir : Power Dome : A Little Nukey (5.9-)
By: Eric "Pig" Varley When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: Kyle, in the King's Canyon guide book, it actually shows the third belay anchor on the giant flake as you describe. I have done the route both ways, and it definitely makes more sense to build a natural anchor at the top of pitch 3 rather than continue up to the bolted anchor.

The approach can be tricky. Double ropes make the rappel much easier. Once you get down to the creek, the key is to stay low and hug the creek. When the option presents itself, if you travel too far up you'll get up o... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Jensen's Jaunt (5.6)
By: Eric "Pig" Varley When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: After climbing this and Left Ski Track, I'm convinced that 5.6 is the mentally hardest grade to climb at Tahquitz.

This was a fun route, with some very exciting moves. Nothing is that hard physically, but if you're limit is 5.6 you will have a mentally difficult time with this route.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : The Long Climb (5.8)
By: Eric "Pig" Varley When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: This route has a bit of 5.8 climbing on every pitch, except for the 6th and final pitch. My partner and I climbed the first pitch of Wong (amazing hand crack) then kept going up through the Mummy Crack (way more secure than it looks).

Pitch 5 (downward pointing flake) is serious mental business. We were both knackered from the previous day's adventure and had little juice left for this crux. BrendanC is correct, there is plenty of pro here. Small nuts below the roof, a blue BD #9 nut f... more >>


Location: Hawaii : Oahu : Mokuleia Wall
By: Eric "Pig" Varley When: Jan 24, 2013

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Comments: Mokuleia and Makapuu are closed for the time being. The best place for information on the closure is to check out Climb Aloha's Facebook page (I can't believe I just recommended Facebook for info). This page will be updated when the crags reopen to the climbing community.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Courtright Reservoir : Power Dome : Welcome to Courtright (5.9)
By: Eric "Pig" Varley When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: Great route description, and the topo picture is accurate. The runouts on this route are definitely no harder than 5.7. When in doubt, get high feet, step up, and a good hand hold will be there. The hard moves are the crux on pitch 2 and the few crux moves on tightly spaced bolts on pitch 3. If you can climb Nukey, and don't get pysched out on runout terrain, this rotue is a must do.


Location: Hawaii : Oahu : Mokuleia Wall : Beat the Burn (5.9)
By: Eric "Pig" Varley When: Sep 17, 2012

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Comments: For all you 5.9 leaders, be careful approaching this route. The crux is very beta specific and not entirely intuative. Even once you're past it, you can still feel quite insecure. Beyond that section the rest of the climb goes at 5.9 or easier.


Location: Hawaii : Oahu : Mokuleia Wall : Ambulance Driver (5.10c)
By: Eric "Pig" Varley When: Sep 17, 2012

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Comments: Fantastic route with a lot of variety. I'd give it 3-stars, missing the one due to the start being a bit of an awkward stem that just wants to spit you out.

I cannot emphasize enough the need for additional pro if you are going to lead this route. A ground fall is possible at the top of the runnout. The crack will take anything from 0.5"-1".