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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Jensen's Jaunt (5.6)
By: Eric "Pig" Varley When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: After climbing this and Left Ski Track, I'm convinced that 5.6 is the mentally hardest grade to climb at Tahquitz.
This was a fun route, with some very exciting moves. Nothing is that hard physically, but if you're limit is 5.6 you will have a mentally difficult time with this route.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : The Long Climb (5.8)
By: Eric "Pig" Varley When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has a bit of 5.8 climbing on every pitch, except for the 6th and final pitch. My partner and I climbed the first pitch of Wong (amazing hand crack) then kept going up through the Mummy Crack (way more secure than it looks).
Pitch 5 (downward pointing flake) is serious mental business. We were both knackered from the previous day's adventure and had little juice left for this crux. BrendanC is correct, there is plenty of pro here. Small nuts below the roof, a blue BD #9 nut f... more >>
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Location: Hawaii : Oahu : Mokuleia Wall
By: Eric "Pig" Varley When: Jan 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mokuleia and Makapuu are closed for the time being. The best place for information on the closure is to check out Climb Aloha's Facebook page (I can't believe I just recommended Facebook for info). This page will be updated when the crags reopen to the climbing community.
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills South : Courtright Reservoir : Power Dome : Welcome to Courtright (5.9)
By: Eric "Pig" Varley When: Nov 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route description, and the topo picture is accurate. The runouts on this route are definitely no harder than 5.7. When in doubt, get high feet, step up, and a good hand hold will be there. The hard moves are the crux on pitch 2 and the few crux moves on tightly spaced bolts on pitch 3. If you can climb Nukey, and don't get pysched out on runout terrain, this rotue is a must do.
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Location: Hawaii : Oahu : Mokuleia Wall : Beat the Burn (5.9)
By: Eric "Pig" Varley When: Sep 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: For all you 5.9 leaders, be careful approaching this route. The crux is very beta specific and not entirely intuative. Even once you're past it, you can still feel quite insecure. Beyond that section the rest of the climb goes at 5.9 or easier.
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Location: Hawaii : Oahu : Mokuleia Wall : Ambulance Driver (5.10c)
By: Eric "Pig" Varley When: Sep 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic route with a lot of variety. I'd give it 3-stars, missing the one due to the start being a bit of an awkward stem that just wants to spit you out.
I cannot emphasize enough the need for additional pro if you are going to lead this route. A ground fall is possible at the top of the runnout. The crack will take anything from 0.5"-1".
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