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smoke break, pitch 5 or 6 (or 7??) of Dark Shadows


Member Since: Feb 21, 2004
Last Visit: Aug 10, 2014
Contact Eric Krantz


Point Rank: # 1,329
Total Points: 469
Last Year: 10
Last 30 Days: 0
18 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Eric Krantz been climbing?










Contributions


All 578 | Routes 6 | Areas 1 | Photos 71 | Page Improvements | Comments 39 | Posts 445 | Stars 11 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Shipyard Rock : Waves (5.8) : Photo
By: Eric Krantz When: Dec 24, 2011

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Comments: There are several starts to Waves and I think this is one of the them. Another one is on the right higher in the gully on the large vertical rails. To the left out of the gully is a harder, schmeary start.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Inner Outlet : ... : Photo
By: Eric Krantz When: Sep 17, 2011

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Comments: This was originally posted under "Rockin' Harder", but Kertzman says it the Rustlers.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Inner Outlet : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: Eric Krantz When: Sep 17, 2011

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Comments: Of course, the Rustlers!


Location: Matthew Johnson : Slacklining Photos : Photo
By: Eric Krantz When: Sep 11, 2011

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Comments: WTF? Why is there a building out there? That's a really really cool photo-- and it looks super fun. How deep is the water?


Location: SD : Devils Gulch
By: Eric Krantz When: Jun 16, 2011

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Comments: Brian, this is north east of Sioux Falls. Yes, there IS climbing out there!


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Sandberg Peak : On Little Cat Feet (5.9)
By: Eric Krantz When: Jan 7, 2011

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Comments: From Piana's Touch the Sky:

"Route 1 (5.8). Traverse left across the northeast face and climb the downhill ridge almost to the summit. Then step right to the final moves. FA: August 1964; Royal Robbins belayed by Liz Robbins."


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : ... : Photo
By: Eric Krantz When: Oct 31, 2010

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Comments: I see a hundred photos of some hot chick walking to the approach of a contrived 5.2 in Nebraska, with 42 "great photo" ratings because she has a tan and cleavage. Here's a slightly large older gentleman climbing 5.12 w/o a rope in a superhero costume, yet no "great photo" ratings?


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Marker : Middle Marker : Broken Promises (5.10a PG13)
By: Eric Krantz When: May 7, 2010

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Comments: Andy, what's the face above like? Is that the 5.9 portion?


Location: SD : Falling Rock
By: Eric Krantz When: Apr 16, 2010

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Comments: Mike, how about anchors above "France by Chance"....?


Location: SD : Iron Mountain : Sledgehammer : I Think I'm Going To Hurle (5.11a)
By: Eric Krantz When: Apr 3, 2010

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Comments: Fun route, tiny holds and balancy, with some rests to milk.


Location: SD : The Big Gash
By: Eric Krantz When: Feb 26, 2010

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Comments: "You will encounter a fragile and delicate environment in The Big Gash. Always tread lightly and whenever possible step from rock to rock."


Location: Colorado : Someone who doesn't use cha... : Post : Photo
By: Eric Krantz When: Feb 22, 2010

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Comments: ...someone who's got room for more beer


Location: Woodchuck ATC : Rock photos : Photo
By: Eric Krantz When: Feb 2, 2010

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Comments: Cams in first, beer on top. Mil's Best... LIGHT!!, now that's dirtbaggin' it!!


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Eyetooth
By: Eric Krantz When: Jan 21, 2010

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Comments: I love you Brett Larsen. I don't know who the hell you are, but I love ya. Edit- OK, I love the description... perfect


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : Finger of Fate (5.8 A2) : Photo
By: Eric Krantz When: Jan 21, 2010

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Comments: Did you ever use that rope to climb Crimson Crysalis and accidentally leave it up there? I know, reaching, reaching....


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Spire Four : South Tower Conn Route (5.9)
By: Eric Krantz When: Nov 10, 2009

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Comments: I agree with Bunny's rating 5.9+. This is not the route for a 5.8 leader. My favorite route in the hills. Led 5.10 R last week but not ready to lead this one.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Inner Outlet : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: Eric Krantz When: Nov 10, 2009

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Comments: "Rockin' Harder" follows the black water streak, "Hardrocker" is to the right. (?)


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Picket Fence : Wicked Picket : Conn Route (5.8-)
By: Eric Krantz When: Sep 13, 2008

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Comments: The nut has been replaced today with a larger one, still rattly but at least it's bigger than the crack now. Needs a register on top - the old eye is still there for it.

Great summit view. One 60m rope gets you *almost* to the ground, and if you swing right you can downclimb a bit and you are there. Best bring two though.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Photo
By: Eric Krantz When: Aug 24, 2008

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Comments: Great photo!

Anyone know what the crack/chimney is to the right of Sex Never Did This To My Hands that goes straight up the end of the massif? You can't see it in this photo, but it starts about 5 feet to the right of the sex crack.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Inner Outlet : Lander Turkey Shoot (5.6)
By: Eric Krantz When: Jun 5, 2007

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Comments: john bradley-

to simulrap - both of ya are at the top and hooked into the anchors, or safely sitting - throw the rope off both sides of the spire and set the rope middle in the "chute" (definition of "middle" meaning rope touches the ground on both sides of the spire). Both of ya get on rappel setup, on either side of the spire, and there ya go! Rap to the ground. Good to have a communication protocol in place before dropping, especially if it's windy and you might not be able to hear the other... more >>


Location: kirra : misc climbing photos : Photo
By: Eric Krantz When: Nov 18, 2006

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Comments: Yo Kirra! That's not Cathedral Spires. The rock behind your helmet is Vertigo, next to Outer Outlet. You're behind Sylvan Lake probably on Inner Outlet. Did you climb Classic Crack?

Spires are down the road, around the corner, through the tunnel, up the trail, over the bridge and through the woods.

Eric

PS Great photo.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Inner Outlet : Rockin' Harder (5.10+)
By: Eric Krantz When: Nov 4, 2006

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Comments: You can belay from the ground. First bolt in a little pod about 15' up.

Maybe 11 bolts(?)

Edit 9/2011 - BOTH Eric's were thinking of the Rustlers and this comment pertains to that route!


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Eyetooth : Eyetooth (5.8)
By: Eric Krantz When: Jul 18, 2006

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Comments: On the SW (Tusk) side of Eyetooth, a nice 5.6 (?) crack leads up to the ledge, and can set a belay there. Full rack.

Anchor bolt on the right is loose. Not just the hanger but the bolt itself wobbles.

This is a scary lead, the pins (especially the first) do not inspire confidence. My partner and I agreed that if the first pin was removed it might leave room for a nice alien placement.

eric


Location: SD : Falling Rock : North Canyon Wall : Adaptation (5.11a/b)
By: Eric Krantz When: May 5, 2006

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Comments: Looks like this photo of Rick (photo 1 on mar 14) is taken on a route to the right of garden party (see the tree/anchor), if he raps straight down he'll drop over the little "Blockhead" roof. I think this is "one-finger solution" (?) and it does goes at 5.11 and is very sequential and really fun and oh-so-close.... (Thanks Mark!)

Adaptation would be to the left of this climber about 80 feet (near the left edge of the cliff in this photo). And the anchors truly are 10-15 feet below the rim as ... more >>


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Emancipation : White House Wall : Chemical Wire (5.11d)
By: Eric Krantz When: Oct 30, 2005

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Comments: The directions say 100' left of Garfield (facing the wall), I think it's more like 100 yds.


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