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smoke break, pitch 5 or 6 (or 7??) of Dark Shadows


Member Since: Feb 21, 2004
Last Visit: Aug 10, 2014
Contact Eric Krantz


Point Rank: # 1,302
Total Points: 469
Last Year: 10
Last 30 Days: 0
17 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Eric Krantz been climbing?










Contributions


All 578 | Routes 6 | Areas 1 | Photos 71 | Page Improvements | Comments 39 | Posts 445 | Stars 11 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Eyetooth : Eyetooth (5.8)
By: Eric Krantz When: Jul 18, 2006

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Comments: On the SW (Tusk) side of Eyetooth, a nice 5.6 (?) crack leads up to the ledge, and can set a belay there. Full rack.

Anchor bolt on the right is loose. Not just the hanger but the bolt itself wobbles.

This is a scary lead, the pins (especially the first) do not inspire confidence. My partner and I agreed that if the first pin was removed it might leave room for a nice alien placement.

eric


Location: SD : Falling Rock : North Canyon Wall : Adaptation (5.11a/b)
By: Eric Krantz When: May 5, 2006

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Comments: Looks like this photo of Rick (photo 1 on mar 14) is taken on a route to the right of garden party (see the tree/anchor), if he raps straight down he'll drop over the little "Blockhead" roof. I think this is "one-finger solution" (?) and it does goes at 5.11 and is very sequential and really fun and oh-so-close.... (Thanks Mark!)

Adaptation would be to the left of this climber about 80 feet (near the left edge of the cliff in this photo). And the anchors truly are 10-15 feet below the rim as ... more >>


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Emancipation : White House Wall : Chemical Wire (5.11d)
By: Eric Krantz When: Oct 30, 2005

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Comments: The directions say 100' left of Garfield (facing the wall), I think it's more like 100 yds.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Photographers' Peak Area : Aquarium Rock : Leaning Jowler (5.11)
By: Eric Krantz When: Aug 16, 2005

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Comments: Hey Ron I heard after 40 everything feels like 12a.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Chopping Block : Chopping Block : Valdez Overhang (5.9)
By: Eric Krantz When: Jun 29, 2005

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Comments: AC - thanks for not attacking. I respect disagreement, but I believe it would be more constructive if you took time to give reasons why the route sucks. I am curious, and perhaps would agree with you and see it in a different light if I knew your reasons. To a new climber like me, a comment like "this route appeals to those lazy or unable" doesn't say anything except that you are bitter for some reason. Peace,

Eric


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Chopping Block : Chopping Block : Valdez Overhang (5.9)
By: Eric Krantz When: Jun 27, 2005

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Comments: For AC submitted 6/26/05: Why the negativity? Why even take the time to write in if you gotta slam something someone else has taken the time to put up? There is so much good to say about this route. Why isn't it good for the beginning 5.9 leader? You say that but don't explain why. I think it's great for the 5.8/5.9 leader. Great route to practice downclimbing, great for a lazy day after 3 days of burly ripping (which is subjective, by the way), well-protected, great hangers on top, great... more >>


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Emancipation
By: Eric Krantz When: Jun 8, 2005

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Comments: Interested to know more about the crack just to the right of Chemical Wire. The crack is the left side of a 'V', kinda offwidth, going up left towards the Chemical anchors. It's a good way to toprope chemical wire if, like me, it's beyond your ability.


Location: SD : Falling Rock
By: Eric Krantz When: May 11, 2005

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Comments: Can anyone provide better directions to "Falling Rock Boulder"? I can't see bolts on anything out trher but the regular routes.

from the site directions: "There is a large bolted boulder on the northwest side of the canyon." ...and... "Find this boulder near the North Canyon Rim in between the parking area and the downclimbing chimney. "

I've found a large "candidate" boulder, w/ fist crack up the middle and really smooth high east side, that would make some good top rope climbs (if you're up... more >>


Location: SD : Falling Rock
By: Eric Krantz When: May 11, 2005

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Comments: My friend's car was broken into in daylight (11:00 am) last week while parked at the first pulloff. Don't leave your new cams in the car.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Spire Four
By: Eric Krantz When: Aug 31, 2004

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Comments: Climbed the chimney system that contains Hang a Right at 4th Ave. I wasn't on the Hang a Right crack, I stayed in the back of the chimney, and crawled into the large flake on the left to set an anchor in the chockstones that have been slung sometime in the past. Went out the opposite side of the flake (away from Hang a Right, up the South Tower side) up a crack that petered out after maybe 40 feet. There was no protection past this. Climbed the big juggy face for maybe 40 feet before stepping ba... more >>


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Chopping Block : Veiny
By: Eric Krantz When: Jun 16, 2004

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Comments: Thanks Dan.

I'm still confused as to which formation is Veiny. There is a new map out that I picked up at Adventure Sport showing Nona's new climbs that is labeling Stinger Rock (or what I thought was Stinger) as "Veiny". Isn't Veiny the first formation you come to when walking in from Wrinkled Rock parking? Thanks, Eric


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Chopping Block : Veiny
By: Eric Krantz When: Jun 14, 2004

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Comments: Can we have some clarification of what is what here from all you old-schoolers? I am under the impression that Veiny is the first major rock one comes to when walking up from the Wrinkled Rock parking area (the trail that starts behind the outhouse), and is the one that is mostly circular as viewed from the top. One approaches on the trail and Veiny is on the left, with the schist (or whatever) bottom, and a hard overhanging crack that starts about halfway up in a small dirty cave-like hole, p... more >>


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Emancipation : White House Wall : Garfield Goes To Washington (5.8)
By: Eric Krantz When: May 23, 2004

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Comments: Above the 3-4 bolts on the 3rd pitch you'll find a desk-sized block with a grapefruit chunk on top. This block can be used to build an anchor, sling the grapefruit and use the small crack around the base. Or, go left from the block maybe 15 feet to a gully and you'll see some anchors below you. This is the rappel that drops over the roof and puts you at the anchors at the top of the first pitch.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Inner Outlet : Kamps Crack (Classic Crack) (5.8)
By: Eric Krantz When: May 9, 2004

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Comments: Great climb!! I used nuts, small and medium hexes and some tricams, which seemed to work well, though would've been nice to have some large cams. This one is fun, fun and just fun, with great belay stance at the top.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Borneo : Solitaire (5.7)
By: Eric Krantz When: Mar 13, 2004

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Comments: Yes, use at least 60m rope


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Chopping Block : Cleaver : Wisconson Beef (5.10a)
By: Eric Krantz When: Mar 12, 2004

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Comments: I took my biggest fall (yet) on the 4th bolt (Jason said "try not to fall on that 4th bolt...it's older") from about waist high at the fifth bolt---Yikes!! But it was clean, and I still can't make that climb w/o hanging- seems harder than others of the same grade-- I think it's all in the feet and you can walk up it like a ladder but I get freaked. Great climb!!!


Location: SD : Falling Rock : South Canyon Wall : Men Without Egos (5.10b)
By: Eric Krantz When: Feb 21, 2004

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Comments: I guess I can't follow directions. I went to the end of the blocked old road where kids used to party and went left (east). I walked past the gully (that takes you to the bottom) and walked another 50 meters(?) east along the top. I came to several bolts on top of this arete-like spire-like thing that's almost not attached to the main wall, cold shuts on the north, hangers on the south, and hangers on top above the cold-shuts. Can anyone tell me where I was? Where is Men w/o Egos from these... more >>


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: How long after washing my trad slings am I gonna die?General ClimbingEric KrantzDec 2, 2013
re: Everything you need to know about climbingGeneral ClimbingEric KrantzOct 31, 2013
Southwest Trip in Easy TerrainGeneral ClimbingEric KrantzOct 20, 2013
re: Mt. Rushmore climbingGeneral ClimbingEric KrantzOct 11, 2013
re: Better climbing for everoneSouthern StatesEric KrantzAug 6, 2013
re: Off Topic.Community ForumEric KrantzAug 5, 2013
re: Quick Study Involving Falls on Static MaterialsClimbing Gear DiscussionEric KrantzAug 1, 2013
re: Quick Study Involving Falls on Static MaterialsClimbing Gear DiscussionEric KrantzJul 30, 2013
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