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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Shipyard Rock : Waves (5.8) : Photo
By: Eric Krantz When: Dec 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are several starts to Waves and I think this is one of the them. Another one is on the right higher in the gully on the large vertical rails. To the left out of the gully is a harder, schmeary start.
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Inner Outlet : ... : Photo
By: Eric Krantz When: Sep 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was originally posted under "Rockin' Harder", but Kertzman says it the Rustlers.
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Inner Outlet : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: Eric Krantz When: Sep 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Of course, the Rustlers!
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Location: Matthew Johnson : Slacklining Photos : Photo
By: Eric Krantz When: Sep 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: WTF? Why is there a building out there? That's a really really cool photo-- and it looks super fun. How deep is the water?
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Location: SD : Devils Gulch
By: Eric Krantz When: Jun 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brian, this is north east of Sioux Falls. Yes, there IS climbing out there!
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Sandberg Peak : On Little Cat Feet (5.9)
By: Eric Krantz When: Jan 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: From Piana's Touch the Sky:
"Route 1 (5.8). Traverse left across the northeast face and climb the downhill ridge almost to the summit. Then step right to the final moves. FA: August 1964; Royal Robbins belayed by Liz Robbins."
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : ... : Photo
By: Eric Krantz When: Oct 31, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I see a hundred photos of some hot chick walking to the approach of a contrived 5.2 in Nebraska, with 42 "great photo" ratings because she has a tan and cleavage. Here's a slightly large older gentleman climbing 5.12 w/o a rope in a superhero costume, yet no "great photo" ratings?
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Marker : Middle Marker : Broken Promises (5.10a PG13)
By: Eric Krantz When: May 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Andy, what's the face above like? Is that the 5.9 portion?
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Location: SD : Falling Rock
By: Eric Krantz When: Apr 16, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mike, how about anchors above "France by Chance"....?
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Location: SD : Iron Mountain : Sledgehammer : I Think I'm Going To Hurle (5.11a)
By: Eric Krantz When: Apr 3, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route, tiny holds and balancy, with some rests to milk.
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Location: SD : The Big Gash
By: Eric Krantz When: Feb 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: "You will encounter a fragile and delicate environment in The Big Gash. Always tread lightly and whenever possible step from rock to rock."
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Location: Colorado & Rocky Mountain R... : Someone who doesn't use cha... : Post : Photo
By: Eric Krantz When: Feb 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: ...someone who's got room for more beer
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Location: Woodchuck ATC : Rock photos : Photo
By: Eric Krantz When: Feb 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cams in first, beer on top. Mil's Best... LIGHT!!, now that's dirtbaggin' it!!
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Eyetooth
By: Eric Krantz When: Jan 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I love you Brett Larsen. I don't know who the hell you are, but I love ya. Edit- OK, I love the description... perfect
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : Finger of Fate (5.8 A2) : Photo
By: Eric Krantz When: Jan 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did you ever use that rope to climb Crimson Crysalis and accidentally leave it up there? I know, reaching, reaching....
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Spire Four : South Tower Conn Route (5.9)
By: Eric Krantz When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Bunny's rating 5.9+. This is not the route for a 5.8 leader. My favorite route in the hills. Led 5.10 R last week but not ready to lead this one.
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Inner Outlet : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: Eric Krantz When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Rockin' Harder" follows the black water streak, "Hardrocker" is to the right. (?)
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Picket Fence : Wicked Picket : Conn Route (5.8-)
By: Eric Krantz When: Sep 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The nut has been replaced today with a larger one, still rattly but at least it's bigger than the crack now. Needs a register on top - the old eye is still there for it.
Great summit view. One 60m rope gets you *almost* to the ground, and if you swing right you can downclimb a bit and you are there. Best bring two though.
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Photo
By: Eric Krantz When: Aug 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great photo!
Anyone know what the crack/chimney is to the right of Sex Never Did This To My Hands that goes straight up the end of the massif? You can't see it in this photo, but it starts about 5 feet to the right of the sex crack.
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Inner Outlet : Lander Turkey Shoot (5.6)
By: Eric Krantz When: Jun 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: john bradley-
to simulrap - both of ya are at the top and hooked into the anchors, or safely sitting - throw the rope off both sides of the spire and set the rope middle in the "chute" (definition of "middle" meaning rope touches the ground on both sides of the spire). Both of ya get on rappel setup, on either side of the spire, and there ya go! Rap to the ground. Good to have a communication protocol in place before dropping, especially if it's windy and you might not be able to hear the other... more >>
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Location: kirra : misc climbing photos : Photo
By: Eric Krantz When: Nov 18, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yo Kirra! That's not Cathedral Spires. The rock behind your helmet is Vertigo, next to Outer Outlet. You're behind Sylvan Lake probably on Inner Outlet. Did you climb Classic Crack?
Spires are down the road, around the corner, through the tunnel, up the trail, over the bridge and through the woods.
Eric
PS Great photo.
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Inner Outlet : Rockin' Harder (5.10+)
By: Eric Krantz When: Nov 4, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can belay from the ground. First bolt in a little pod about 15' up.
Maybe 11 bolts(?)
Edit 9/2011 - BOTH Eric's were thinking of the Rustlers and this comment pertains to that route!
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Eyetooth : Eyetooth (5.8)
By: Eric Krantz When: Jul 18, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: On the SW (Tusk) side of Eyetooth, a nice 5.6 (?) crack leads up to the ledge, and can set a belay there. Full rack.
Anchor bolt on the right is loose. Not just the hanger but the bolt itself wobbles.
This is a scary lead, the pins (especially the first) do not inspire confidence. My partner and I agreed that if the first pin was removed it might leave room for a nice alien placement.
eric
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Location: SD : Falling Rock : North Canyon Wall : Adaptation (5.11a/b)
By: Eric Krantz When: May 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like this photo of Rick (photo 1 on mar 14) is taken on a route to the right of garden party (see the tree/anchor), if he raps straight down he'll drop over the little "Blockhead" roof. I think this is "one-finger solution" (?) and it does goes at 5.11 and is very sequential and really fun and oh-so-close.... (Thanks Mark!)
Adaptation would be to the left of this climber about 80 feet (near the left edge of the cliff in this photo). And the anchors truly are 10-15 feet below the rim as ... more >>
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