Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Heading up the best pitches of the route. Perfect ...


Member Since: Oct 10, 2012
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
Contact Eric Klammer

Point Rank: # 323
Total Points: 1,861
Last Year: 333
Last 30 Days: 35
42 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Eric Klammer been climbing?










Contributions


All 1554 | Routes 28 | Areas 4 | Photos 279 | Page Improvements | Comments 126 | Posts 203 | Stars 566 | Ratings 348
Page 1 of 6.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Out to Lunge (5.9 R)
By: Eric Klammer When: Apr 17, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Great route with much better climbing than I imagined after looking it over from the ground. It was a little spicy but never seriously runout, and the cruxes had gear at your waist or above. The upper slab is a little tricky, but as someone mentioned earlier, you can sling a decent chickenhead/pebble off to your right for some pro. After that, it's one big move up to a jug and then good gear to the top.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Pygmy Pony (5.9 PG13)
By: Eric Klammer When: Apr 7, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I thought this was a fun line with good moves and somewhat adequate protection. How often do you get to toe hook and bear hug your way up an arete on a 5.9? While the pro was decent, there are a few places where a fall could smash you back on the big pillar below. Probably not a great lead for those breaking into 5.9.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Super Scooper (5.9+)
By: Eric Klammer When: Apr 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I found this line to be much cleaner and more fun than it looks from the ground. Some consistently steep moves will keep the pump clock running, and the gear is just the perfect little bit spicy. Unlike the Levin book which rates P2 as the crux, I found it to be significantly easier than P1 with maybe 2 semi-hard moves before reaching the never ending monster jugs of the rest of the pitch. The gear on P2 is slightly worse though, with a fall from above the crux landing you back on the sloping le... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : North Rock
By: Eric Klammer When: Apr 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: That branch over the slot is no joke! I rammed my head into it last year, and I think my ears are still ringing....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Wired (5.9+ PG13)
By: Eric Klammer When: Apr 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I agree that this climb warrants a solid R rating, and I wouldn't want to put a 5.9 leader on the sharp end of this one. This is one of those pitches where you can place the gear, but there is no way of telling how good it really is without falling on it. While you have great gear for the first little crux of pulling on to the slab, until you reach the good flake at the end of the traverse, you are relying completely on tiny RPs behind the very thin, outside edge of the crack. Falling could very... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Cold Turkey (5.8+)
By: Eric Klammer When: Mar 15, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This is a great line to climb if you want to mix things up from the many lower angle, straight in, crack climbs found at the Perch. A good hands to wide hands crack (with right foot stemmed to the boulder) leads to some fun crimping and steep jamming above. A small BD nut gives you protection at your chest for the crux, and bomber cams go in a couple of feet above. Swing left to Steppenwolf at the top of the pillar, and run it to the anchor on a hero hand crack!

I believe this climb is referred... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Wet Turkey aka Turkey Perch... (5.7+)
By: Eric Klammer When: Mar 15, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This climbed surprisingly easier than it looked. Many features on both sides of the OW make this more a stemming climb than a crack climb. Easy 5.7 if you don't get too fixated on the crack.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Funeral March (5.9)
By: Eric Klammer When: Mar 15, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This thing crushed my body and soul. Way harder than I expected giving the 5.9- rating in the guidebook. My second was able to follow it rather easily with a fair amount of face climbing, but on lead with 1 #6 and a few crappy Aliens behind loose and crumbly flakes, you can bet I was in full on squeeze chimney mode. That being said, while scary, this climb was oddly enjoyable. The sequence I used to pull the final roof was certainly something to witness. Legs wrapped around that final big ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Wind Tower Slab (5.9 X)
By: Eric Klammer When: Feb 21, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Fun moves on good stone. Anywhere from mid-5.10 to 5.9 depending on what contrived path you choose. There's a pretty blank panel about 1/3-1/2 way up that's pretty fun to scratch your way up for a few moves. Didn't see much of any pro, definitely X rated if one were to lead it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Unknown 10c aka Quadrille (5.10c)
By: Eric Klammer When: Feb 14, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Gonna have to join the "way hard for 10c" group on this one. Pulled moves between the bolts that involved yarding on a sharp crimper with the right hand while hand-foot matching a tiny pebble and sloping dish with the left. Definitely some missing rock on the small, left-facing flake above the first bolt, is that recent or cleaned on the FA?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Laughing at the Moon (5.10b)
By: Eric Klammer When: Feb 10, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: One of the best face pitches I've had the pleasure of climbing. Sustained at the 5.9 level with a few spots of easier 5.10, this is a continuous pitch with the perfect amount of protection. While in no way outright dangerous, this pitch kept my attention with tricky climbing above somewhat rusty bolts or pitons (even placing gear where possible). PG-13.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Skip 'n' Go Naked (5.8 R)
By: Eric Klammer When: Feb 9, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Yeah, thought I saw some chalk on it and figured it must have been you. I wonder how long it has gone unclimbed before seeing two ascents within a couple of hours haha....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : January Playmate (5.8)
By: Eric Klammer When: Feb 8, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: 15' of good climbing at the start and another 15' at the end. The middle majority is awkward and polished with funky pro. A fall around the rightwards traverse would be bad indeed. Overall not a great route IMHO.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Nobody's Home (5.9)
By: Eric Klammer When: Feb 8, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Great climb that is much more fun than it looks from the ground. Nothing awkward about the climbing with a sustained mix of thin crack and cool face. Pro seemed pretty good to me with some spaced out but generally solid pieces. Offset nuts/cams and a couple of small cams for the end will serve you well. The rap sling is currently nice and new with a fatty rap ring.

Oh, and nobody's home.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Baby Sitter (5.9 PG13)
By: Eric Klammer When: Feb 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Fun climbing over a short distance. Very pumpy in its current state as the wall has a good amount of lichen on it rendering your feet pretty useless for the last half of the traverse. If 5.9 is towards your limit, you may have to decide between getting pumped placing weird, tricky gear and maybe falling on it or placing little gear and just going for it!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Pencil & Eraser area aka Be... : Esmerelda (WI4 M6-7)
By: Eric Klammer When: Feb 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This route is short but packs a lot of fun! Really good when the ice is fat, as the curtain is at least a body length wide and you get to do a sweet, pumpy traverse. Bolts seemed okay, but I didn't test any.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Strawberry Shortcut (5.9+)
By: Eric Klammer When: Jan 25, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Pro on P1 seemed fine. Thin in the first dihedral but should stop a fall, great red Alien just before the crux, then a fixed nut and a blue Alien at your waist for the crux. Fell there, and they held fine. I believe the R rating in the newer Levin guide is for the second pitch? Didn't do it, but the pro certainly looked questionable from above.

Overall a super fun and tricky "5.9". Ended up doing the crux hands first, making a big reach right to a good edge over the roof, and hauling my quiver... more >>


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Crab Eyes : West Face : Crab Salad (5.8)
By: Eric Klammer When: Jan 15, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Great route that packs quite a variety of climbing into a relatively short distance. Don't expect much of any pro for the chimney to the ledge and the chicken head finale. Easier climbing off the last small sloping ledge but hollow holds (my partner broke off a large piece following) and pro that's already a ways a way makes it exciting. Falling from the last section would not be ideal and you'd probably mess yourself up pretty good.

Great route though that really packs in the exposure!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : The Offset (5.9+ R)
By: Eric Klammer When: Oct 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Definitely felt like 5.10 to me on lead. My partner was able to take an easier variation to the left at the start of the upper seam, but this is impossible if you want to place gear, and you will want to place gear!

The pro on this climb was just enough to keep you safe, off the ground, and urge you upwards. That's not to say the climb wasn't scary though. It was awesomely scary as a fall at the traverse to the next crack would send you on quite a ride.

I placed a 0.5 and 0.75 in the good slo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Shallow Dihedral (5.11- PG13)
By: Eric Klammer When: Oct 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Was able to fiddle in two small offset brassies and a red ball nut in the lower 5' of the dihedral, but it pinches shut completely after that, so be prepared to run it out. I mantled onto the good flake/crimp on the right wall before deciding that the lead was too much and backing down. You won't hit the ground falling out of the dihedral (if the gear holds), but you will need a high level of confidence in your small gear as it will be holding quite a fall if you do blow it near the top.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Shades of Gray (5.9 R)
By: Eric Klammer When: Oct 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I'm also unsure of the correct route up pitch 3. I started from the Bulge anchor and traversed to above the "alcove" with feet on a balancy ramp with bad hands. From there, I shot up and just slightly left to the next Bulge anchor. The seam I encountered at the overhang I managed to fiddle a sideways RP into, and the only okay piece on the pitch was now 10'-12' below me. After pulling the seam, it is then runout to the anchor on crystals and cobbles (5.7 or so) and quite heady. Not sure if I was... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Good Excuse (5.9)
By: Eric Klammer When: Oct 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Just a heads up that the starting blocks may not be super solid, definitely take care. My partner was standing on the lowest block and it started to shift downwards an inch or so at a time with a terrible crunching sound until he was able to climb off of it. Not what you want when you're above a ledge with little gear. The top of the climb is awesome though, and well worth the effort.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : A Shadow Sickness (5.10)
By: Eric Klammer When: Sep 18, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: No rap anchor as of 09/2014, walked off. Kind of a spicy lead, probably not a good route for a 5.9 leader. The moves off the ground are hard, the low angle dihedral after is right now full of pretty tall grass (really fun to smear on), and there is no pro until reaching the steeper section. The climb is a total classic from there though and a Flatirons must do!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : Diffraction (5.10a/b)
By: Eric Klammer When: Sep 18, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: As someone mentioned above, going knees first over the crux roof/ramp is the way to go. This makes the move significantly easier and less awkward.

Also be aware that there are many wasps buzzing around some of the lower flakes on this climb. Didn't see a nest, but just keep your eyes open.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Green Thumb : Diagonal Finger Crack (5.9+)
By: Eric Klammer When: Sep 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Awesome climb! Too bad it's so short.... Would be a total classic if the business lasted more than just 25 feet. Even so, it is well worth the hike, and the gear (offset RPs, blue/black Aliens), while small, is bomber. Great way to get more mileage in after the third!


Page 1 of 6.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!