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Heading up the best pitches of the route. Perfect ...


Member Since: Oct 10, 2012
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 356
Total Points: 1,638
Last Year: 560
Last 30 Days: 5
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1313 | Routes 20 | Areas 2 | Photos 260 | Page Improvements | Comments 108 | Posts 143 | Stars 491 | Ratings 289
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : The Offset (5.9+ R)
By: Eric Klammer When: Oct 23, 2014

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Comments: Definitely felt like 5.10 to me on lead. My partner was able to take an easier variation to the left at the start of the upper seam, but this is impossible if you want to place gear, and you will want to place gear!

The pro on this climb was just enough to keep you safe, off the ground, and urge you upwards. That's not to say the climb wasn't scary though. It was awesomely scary as a fall at the traverse to the next crack would send you on quite a ride.

I placed a 0.5 and 0.75 in the good slo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Shallow Dihedral (5.11- PG13)
By: Eric Klammer When: Oct 23, 2014

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Comments: Was able to fiddle in two small offset brassies and a red ball nut in the lower 5' of the dihedral, but it pinches shut completely after that, so be prepared to run it out. I mantled onto the good flake/crimp on the right wall before deciding that the lead was too much and backing down. You won't hit the ground falling out of the dihedral (if the gear holds), but you will need a high level of confidence in your small gear as it will be holding quite a fall if you do blow it near the top.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Shades of Gray (5.9 R)
By: Eric Klammer When: Oct 23, 2014

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Comments: I'm also unsure of the correct route up pitch 3. I started from the Bulge anchor and traversed to above the "alcove" with feet on a balancy ramp with bad hands. From there, I shot up and just slightly left to the next Bulge anchor. The seam I encountered at the overhang I managed to fiddle a sideways RP into, and the only okay piece on the pitch was now 10'-12' below me. After pulling the seam, it is then runout to the anchor on crystals and cobbles (5.7 or so) and quite heady. Not sure if I was... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Good Excuse (5.9)
By: Eric Klammer When: Oct 9, 2014

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Comments: Just a heads up that the starting blocks may not be super solid, definitely take care. My partner was standing on the lowest block and it started to shift downwards an inch or so at a time with a terrible crunching sound until he was able to climb off of it. Not what you want when you're above a ledge with little gear. The top of the climb is awesome though, and well worth the effort.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : A Shadow Sickness (5.10)
By: Eric Klammer When: Sep 18, 2014

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Comments: No rap anchor as of 09/2014, walked off. Kind of a spicy lead, probably not a good route for a 5.9 leader. The moves off the ground are hard, the low angle dihedral after is right now full of pretty tall grass (really fun to smear on), and there is no pro until reaching the steeper section. The climb is a total classic from there though and a Flatirons must do!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : Diffraction (5.10a/b)
By: Eric Klammer When: Sep 18, 2014

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Comments: As someone mentioned above, going knees first over the crux roof/ramp is the way to go. This makes the move significantly easier and less awkward.

Also be aware that there are many wasps buzzing around some of the lower flakes on this climb. Didn't see a nest, but just keep your eyes open.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Green Thumb : Diagonal Finger Crack (5.9+)
By: Eric Klammer When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: Awesome climb! Too bad it's so short.... Would be a total classic if the business lasted more than just 25 feet. Even so, it is well worth the hike, and the gear (offset RPs, blue/black Aliens), while small, is bomber. Great way to get more mileage in after the third!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Flakey Floont (5.7)
By: Eric Klammer When: Sep 5, 2014

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Comments: I didn't think this was quite as bad as the description made it out to be. The rock isn't the best, but it's far from bad, and while the movement is awkward, it's still pretty fun. Definitely don't put this climb on the must do list, but if you're bored and looking for something new, this offers an interesting diversion for a few minutes.


Location: CO : Crested Butte : Mt. Crested Butte : Sunset Ridge (5.7)
By: Eric Klammer When: Aug 27, 2014

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Comments: Agreed. Climbed it with the max difficulty maybe 5.4 or so. Definitely not Flatirons-esque 5.4 though as choss, route finding, and alpine weather will keep you on your toes. Beautiful views and a cool summit are great, but the climb itself is quite chossy and nothing special.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : Left Hand : Left Hand Crack (5.8)
By: Eric Klammer When: Aug 27, 2014

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Comments: Ignoring the beta on the MP page and just going for it with simple jamming seemed to be much easier than stemming and other trickery employed by my other climbing partners. For the most part the jams are solid and perfect, and the few places where the crack the widens or tapers are easy to reach past. A super solid jam over the lip allows you to pull over with ease. Enjoy, it's very fun!


Location: CO : Eldora : Eldora Summer Slab
By: Eric Klammer When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments: Fun little crag that is worth a visit and a great place to get away from the BoCan crowds and up towards the mountains. Be aware that the bolts are near the cruxes, but slight runouts exist on easier terrain, and some gear is required (great job FAs, much more interesting climbing than most of Boulder Canyon), probably not great routes for 5.7 leaders. Cool rock as well, very angular fractures lead to abundant jugs and incuts!


Location: CA : Photo
By: Eric Klammer When: Jul 17, 2014

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Comments: Wow. As others have said one of the coolest pictures on MP!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon : South Face (5.8)
By: Eric Klammer When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: Thought this climb deserved every one of it's four stars. Yes, the initial pitches aren't exposed or as steep as the final ones, but they are still super fun and a great way to slowly ramp up the difficulty (I like my alpine climbs to feel alpine though...). The final pitches hold great rock at a near vertical angle with awesome exposure and fun little runouts, does it get any better than that?

Overall, this was a great moderate climb with an easy approach and easier descent. My partner and I b... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Maroon Bells : Maroon Ridge (5.4)
By: Eric Klammer When: Jul 4, 2014

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Comments: Soloed this route the mid/late June 2014. Went up Bell Cord, across to South Maroon, and then traversed the ridge to North Maroon. Descended via the NW ridge of North Maroon to another couloir providing a very quick and painless way down!

The ridge was still quite snow/ice covered and turned out to be slightly more of an undertaking than I had planned. Progress traversing across steep snow and scree fields above large cliff bands was slow but relatively safe when moving carefully. While the sn... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Photo
By: Eric Klammer When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: Great shot! Your Mother?


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Country-Western Crags : ... : Little Bighorn (5.6)
By: Eric Klammer When: May 16, 2014

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Comments: Only 1 semi-hard move in getting over the initial bulge. From there, it's a low angle cruise to the ledge. Once above the short bulge, hand/hand stacks will take you to the anchor with ease. Not a very sustained route but fun nonetheless and probably a good route to learn some basic wide techniques.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Jim Crack (5.9)
By: Eric Klammer When: May 7, 2014

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Comments: Will add photo when I get the chance to snag one....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Ruper (5.8+)
By: Eric Klammer When: May 6, 2014

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Comments: Got kind of psyched out before leading the roof traverse only to find.... it's pretty easy! By staying low, you can basically walk across the ramp below with small but good hands. A pin and okay cam will be at your chest for the crux. While the pro is generally pretty bad for the stretch under the roof, I found the climbing to be only around 5.7 or so.

Overall an amazing route and possibly the best 5.8 in the park. We did the Rover variation for P2, and while a little polished, we both thought... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : Middle Fork of St. Vrain Ca... : Piz Badille : Right Side (5.7)
By: Eric Klammer When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: Fun route on mostly solid and wonderfully featured rock. The crux may be in the route finding, as some of the early roofs may be a little tricky and you can find yourself surrounded by overhanging, loose blocks in a hurry if you're not careful. Linked up with "The Ridge" and walked off to the South. Didn't see any pins, just a stuck C4 about halfway up.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Rotwand : Most Honorable Hose Bag (5.6 X)
By: Eric Klammer When: Apr 30, 2014

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Comments: It should also be mentioned that climbing on the lower South Rotwand wall is probably not a great idea when the lower parking lot is full. Approaching the wall, we both sent numerous small rocks down the hill towards the lot below. It could become an expensive (and not to mention dangerous) day very quickly.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Secret Crag (aka Ridge 6) : Opus 73 (5.10a)
By: Eric Klammer When: Apr 19, 2014

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Comments: Overall a very fun route! A word of warning though, the first 60' or so can be a little scary. A lot of loose flakes and poorly bonded sandstone had me 15' above an okay yellow Alien while climbing through the loose and poop covered rotten band below the start of the good rock. (I soon after sunk a #5 in the wide crack and all was good in the world again....)

Having said that, by the time I reached the top of the route, the junky lower half was completely forgotten. The last 15' is awesom... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Secret Crag (aka Ridge 6) : Riding With the King (5.9-)
By: Eric Klammer When: Apr 19, 2014

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Comments: P1 is so-so, kind of dirty with a bolted crack. P2 is some of the best face climbing I've ever done in the Flatirons. Climbing up an amazing variety of pockets, rails, and crimps, all on the hardest, cleanest stone. Absolutely classic!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Second Flatiron : ... : Photo
By: Eric Klammer When: Apr 16, 2014

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Comments: Is this photo really relevant to the route? Needed?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : West Side aka West Chimney (5.7)
By: Eric Klammer When: Apr 12, 2014

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Comments: Really fun route overall, much better than the above description makes it out to be. Definitely do the 5.8 variation on P2! With that you'll get fingers, hands, offwidth, a roof, and some cool, delicate rotten band climbing over the course of the route. Great exposure and variation, you just need a little sense of adventure!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden
By: Eric Klammer When: Apr 5, 2014

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Comments: ^^^
Many thanks for the hardware update. Was just up there today and it looks great! Definitely glad not to be rapping off of that single bolt anymore, no matter how large it is....

In regards to the combat boots, they have been up there for a couple of months now. Saw them a while ago and placed them under the large boulder by the rap where you most likely found them. There was a guidebook with the boots as well as a bail anchor made up of brand new gear on the North face. Curious (and kind of... more >>


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