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Heading up the best pitches of the route. Perfect ...


Member Since: Oct 10, 2012
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 319
Total Points: 1,831
Last Year: 560
Last 30 Days: 83
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1475 | Routes 24 | Areas 3 | Photos 285 | Page Improvements | Comments 121 | Posts 177 | Stars 538 | Ratings 327
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Cold Turkey (5.8+)
By: Eric Klammer When: Mar 15, 2015

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Comments: This is a great line to climb if you want to mix things up from the many lower angle, straight in, crack climbs found at the Perch. A good hands to wide hands crack (with right foot stemmed to the boulder) leads to some fun crimping and steep jamming above. A small BD nut gives you protection at your chest for the crux, and bomber cams go in a couple of feet above. Swing left to Steppenwolf at the top of the pillar, and run it to the anchor on a hero hand crack!

I believe this climb is referred... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Wet Turkey aka Turkey Perch... (5.7+)
By: Eric Klammer When: Mar 15, 2015

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Comments: This climbed surprisingly easier than it looked. Many features on both sides of the OW make this more a stemming climb than a crack climb. Easy 5.7 if you don't get too fixated on the crack.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Funeral March (5.9)
By: Eric Klammer When: Mar 15, 2015

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Comments: This thing crushed my body and soul. Way harder than I expected giving the 5.9- rating in the guidebook. My second was able to follow it rather easily with a fair amount of face climbing, but on lead with 1 #6 and a few crappy Aliens behind loose and crumbly flakes, you can bet I was in full on squeeze chimney mode. That being said, while scary, this climb was oddly enjoyable. The sequence I used to pull the final roof was certainly something to witness. Legs wrapped around that final big ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Wind Tower Slab (5.9 X)
By: Eric Klammer When: Feb 21, 2015

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Comments: Fun moves on good stone. Anywhere from mid-5.10 to 5.9 depending on what contrived path you choose. There's a pretty blank panel about 1/3-1/2 way up that's pretty fun to scratch your way up for a few moves. Didn't see much of any pro, definitely X rated if one were to lead it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Unknown 10c aka Quadrille (5.10c)
By: Eric Klammer When: Feb 14, 2015

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Comments: Gonna have to join the "way hard for 10c" group on this one. Pulled moves between the bolts that involved yarding on a sharp crimper with the right hand while hand-foot matching a tiny pebble and sloping dish with the left. Definitely some missing rock on the small, left-facing flake above the first bolt, is that recent or cleaned on the FA?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Laughing at the Moon (5.10b)
By: Eric Klammer When: Feb 10, 2015

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Comments: One of the best face pitches I've had the pleasure of climbing. Sustained at the 5.9 level with a few spots of easier 5.10, this is a continuous pitch with the perfect amount of protection. While in no way outright dangerous, this pitch kept my attention with tricky climbing above somewhat rusty bolts or pitons (even placing gear where possible). PG-13.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Skip 'n' Go Naked (5.8 R)
By: Eric Klammer When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: Yeah, thought I saw some chalk on it and figured it must have been you. I wonder how long it has gone unclimbed before seeing two ascents within a couple of hours haha....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : January Playmate (5.8)
By: Eric Klammer When: Feb 8, 2015

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Comments: 15' of good climbing at the start and another 15' at the end. The middle majority is awkward and polished with funky pro. A fall around the rightwards traverse would be bad indeed. Overall not a great route IMHO.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Nobody's Home (5.9)
By: Eric Klammer When: Feb 8, 2015

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Comments: Great climb that is much more fun than it looks from the ground. Nothing awkward about the climbing with a sustained mix of thin crack and cool face. Pro seemed pretty good to me with some spaced out but generally solid pieces. Offset nuts/cams and a couple of small cams for the end will serve you well. The rap sling is currently nice and new with a fatty rap ring.

Oh, and nobody's home.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Baby Sitter (5.9 PG13)
By: Eric Klammer When: Feb 4, 2015

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Comments: Fun climbing over a short distance. Very pumpy in its current state as the wall has a good amount of lichen on it rendering your feet pretty useless for the last half of the traverse. If 5.9 is towards your limit, you may have to decide between getting pumped placing weird, tricky gear and maybe falling on it or placing little gear and just going for it!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Pencil & Eraser area aka Be... : Esmerelda (WI4 M6-7)
By: Eric Klammer When: Feb 4, 2015

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Comments: This route is short but packs a lot of fun! Really good when the ice is fat, as the curtain is at least a body length wide and you get to do a sweet, pumpy traverse. Bolts seemed okay, but I didn't test any.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Strawberry Shortcut (5.9+)
By: Eric Klammer When: Jan 25, 2015

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Comments: Pro on P1 seemed fine. Thin in the first dihedral but should stop a fall, great red Alien just before the crux, then a fixed nut and a blue Alien at your waist for the crux. Fell there, and they held fine. I believe the R rating in the newer Levin guide is for the second pitch? Didn't do it, but the pro certainly looked questionable from above.

Overall a super fun and tricky "5.9". Ended up doing the crux hands first, making a big reach right to a good edge over the roof, and hauling my quiver... more >>


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Crab Eyes : West Face : Crab Salad (5.8)
By: Eric Klammer When: Jan 15, 2015

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Comments: Great route that packs quite a variety of climbing into a relatively short distance. Don't expect much of any pro for the chimney to the ledge and the chicken head finale. Easier climbing off the last small sloping ledge but hollow holds (my partner broke off a large piece following) and pro that's already a ways a way makes it exciting. Falling from the last section would not be ideal and you'd probably mess yourself up pretty good.

Great route though that really packs in the exposure!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : The Offset (5.9+ R)
By: Eric Klammer When: Oct 23, 2014

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Comments: Definitely felt like 5.10 to me on lead. My partner was able to take an easier variation to the left at the start of the upper seam, but this is impossible if you want to place gear, and you will want to place gear!

The pro on this climb was just enough to keep you safe, off the ground, and urge you upwards. That's not to say the climb wasn't scary though. It was awesomely scary as a fall at the traverse to the next crack would send you on quite a ride.

I placed a 0.5 and 0.75 in the good slo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Shallow Dihedral (5.11- PG13)
By: Eric Klammer When: Oct 23, 2014

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Comments: Was able to fiddle in two small offset brassies and a red ball nut in the lower 5' of the dihedral, but it pinches shut completely after that, so be prepared to run it out. I mantled onto the good flake/crimp on the right wall before deciding that the lead was too much and backing down. You won't hit the ground falling out of the dihedral (if the gear holds), but you will need a high level of confidence in your small gear as it will be holding quite a fall if you do blow it near the top.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Shades of Gray (5.9 R)
By: Eric Klammer When: Oct 23, 2014

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Comments: I'm also unsure of the correct route up pitch 3. I started from the Bulge anchor and traversed to above the "alcove" with feet on a balancy ramp with bad hands. From there, I shot up and just slightly left to the next Bulge anchor. The seam I encountered at the overhang I managed to fiddle a sideways RP into, and the only okay piece on the pitch was now 10'-12' below me. After pulling the seam, it is then runout to the anchor on crystals and cobbles (5.7 or so) and quite heady. Not sure if I was... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Good Excuse (5.9)
By: Eric Klammer When: Oct 9, 2014

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Comments: Just a heads up that the starting blocks may not be super solid, definitely take care. My partner was standing on the lowest block and it started to shift downwards an inch or so at a time with a terrible crunching sound until he was able to climb off of it. Not what you want when you're above a ledge with little gear. The top of the climb is awesome though, and well worth the effort.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : A Shadow Sickness (5.10)
By: Eric Klammer When: Sep 18, 2014

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Comments: No rap anchor as of 09/2014, walked off. Kind of a spicy lead, probably not a good route for a 5.9 leader. The moves off the ground are hard, the low angle dihedral after is right now full of pretty tall grass (really fun to smear on), and there is no pro until reaching the steeper section. The climb is a total classic from there though and a Flatirons must do!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : Diffraction (5.10a/b)
By: Eric Klammer When: Sep 18, 2014

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Comments: As someone mentioned above, going knees first over the crux roof/ramp is the way to go. This makes the move significantly easier and less awkward.

Also be aware that there are many wasps buzzing around some of the lower flakes on this climb. Didn't see a nest, but just keep your eyes open.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Green Thumb : Diagonal Finger Crack (5.9+)
By: Eric Klammer When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: Awesome climb! Too bad it's so short.... Would be a total classic if the business lasted more than just 25 feet. Even so, it is well worth the hike, and the gear (offset RPs, blue/black Aliens), while small, is bomber. Great way to get more mileage in after the third!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Flakey Floont (5.7)
By: Eric Klammer When: Sep 5, 2014

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Comments: I didn't think this was quite as bad as the description made it out to be. The rock isn't the best, but it's far from bad, and while the movement is awkward, it's still pretty fun. Definitely don't put this climb on the must do list, but if you're bored and looking for something new, this offers an interesting diversion for a few minutes.


Location: CO : Crested Butte : Mt. Crested Butte : Sunset Ridge (5.7)
By: Eric Klammer When: Aug 27, 2014

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Comments: Agreed. Climbed it with the max difficulty maybe 5.4 or so. Definitely not Flatirons-esque 5.4 though as choss, route finding, and alpine weather will keep you on your toes. Beautiful views and a cool summit are great, but the climb itself is quite chossy and nothing special.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : Left Hand : Left Hand Crack (5.8)
By: Eric Klammer When: Aug 27, 2014

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Comments: Ignoring the beta on the MP page and just going for it with simple jamming seemed to be much easier than stemming and other trickery employed by my other climbing partners. For the most part the jams are solid and perfect, and the few places where the crack the widens or tapers are easy to reach past. A super solid jam over the lip allows you to pull over with ease. Enjoy, it's very fun!


Location: CO : Eldora : Eldora Summer Slab
By: Eric Klammer When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments: Fun little crag that is worth a visit and a great place to get away from the BoCan crowds and up towards the mountains. Be aware that the bolts are near the cruxes, but slight runouts exist on easier terrain, and some gear is required (great job FAs, much more interesting climbing than most of Boulder Canyon), probably not great routes for 5.7 leaders. Cool rock as well, very angular fractures lead to abundant jugs and incuts!


Location: CA : Photo
By: Eric Klammer When: Jul 17, 2014

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Comments: Wow. As others have said one of the coolest pictures on MP!


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