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Eric Jacobsen


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: May 28, 2010
Contact Eric Jacobsen


Point Rank: # 1,190
Total Points: 487
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
23 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Eric Jacobsen been climbing?










Contributions


All (92) | Routes (15) | Areas (11) | Photos (31) | Comments (17) | Posts | Stars (16) | Ratings (2)

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Static Wall : Transformer Man (5.8)
By: Eric Jacobsen When: Mar 9, 2005

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Comments: Also wanted to mention this south-facing route is a great climb on a sunny winter's day. Probably brutal in the middle of July though.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Static Wall : Transformer Man (5.8)
By: Eric Jacobsen When: Mar 8, 2005

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Comments: Great long bolted climb with pretty healthy bolt spacing, especially between 2 & 3. Get's pretty thin up towards the top. We had plenty of rope with a 60m but I wouldn't go any shorter.Be sure your belayer is tied in.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : The West Slabs : The West Slabs (5.5)
By: Eric Jacobsen When: Sep 11, 2004

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Comments: We tried some simul-climbing this morning and found it a great option. We followed Peter's directions, stopping for a belay at the top of P3, P5, and the top, which we estimated as about pitch 12 based on your description. After pitch 6 or so it gets quite easy and we didn't need to stop to place gear as much.I found the most exposed pitch to be 5 but maybe it was just the line we chose. We descended the west ridge as described by Ruckman and chose a gully to scramble down. It was a bit ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : The West Slabs
By: Eric Jacobsen When: Sep 11, 2004

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Comments: We did this this morning following Peter's directions which were great. I wanted to add that we followed the road past 2 switchbacks and the road just became the trail. Shortly after a short section of boulder hopping the trail dumped us into the obvious drainage where a good cairn pointed the way. From there it was about 40 more minutes of scrambling up the drainage to the base of the slabs. Easier at first and pretty steep with some fifth class moves near the top. Took us about an hour t... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lisa Falls : Lisa Falls Buttress
By: Eric Jacobsen When: Aug 3, 2004

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Comments: One of the guys from the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance was going to be working on taking the numbers off of Pete's rock. He was going to be using some kind of solvent and a wire brush but I forget the exact details. You don't want to use something that's going to leave a permanent mark if possible.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag : Gypsy Girl (5.5)
By: Eric Jacobsen When: Aug 3, 2004

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Comments: Way to go Preston!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Antagonism (5.12a/b)
By: Eric Jacobsen When: Jul 26, 2004

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Comments: Heh...I remember trying to haul my ass up this climb several years ago...fun stuff but never could do it. I think with enough weight on the rope from my belayer I finally got over the crux. I loved the lower face though...tiny crimps!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Dark Star Gully : Fine Arete (5.11a)
By: Eric Jacobsen When: Jul 22, 2004

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Comments: I think he meant to put 5.11a? We can change it if so.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Glass Ocean and Environs : Glass Ocean (5.8)
By: Eric Jacobsen When: Jul 17, 2004

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Comments: A discussion about rebolting the top anchors to this route can be found here:

www.climbingsaltlake.com/resources/features/bolt_replacement>>>




Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Bushwhack Crack (5.8)
By: Eric Jacobsen When: Mar 29, 2004

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Comments: I haven't climbed this but have also heard that it's hard and greasy. And that everyone loves it. Can't wait to try it out this summer!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom (5.6)
By: Eric Jacobsen When: Dec 12, 2003

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Comments: That's right. The Schoolroom Direct Variation is rated 5.7R in Ruckman's book. (The traverse from the top of the crack over to the first Schoolroom belay is runout) I haven't done it, but I've seen people combine this pitch with the 2nd pitch of Schoolroom and it seems to work quite well.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom (5.6)
By: Eric Jacobsen When: Nov 4, 2003

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Comments: John, thanks for your comments. Since I'm still a trad-climbing beginner, I appreciated the variety of the pitches, even that nasty fourth-pitch chimney. The short pitches were nice because my partner and I could actually communicate with each other (except for the final pitch). So for those reasons I'd still give it 3 stars and do it again. It did seem like it took forever to go not very far because of all the belay swapping. I've heard Schoolroom West is very fun and am anxious to try tha... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Watchtower Main : Extreme Unction (5.10a)
By: Eric Jacobsen When: Sep 26, 2003

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Comments: You can also scramble to the top of this fairly easily from the top of the western buttress of the Watchtower.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Thieving Magpie (5.7)
By: Eric Jacobsen When: Sep 19, 2003

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Comments:

I thought the crux of this one was just as difficult as Entre Nous to the left, though the entire climb isn't quite as sustained.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curves : S-Curve - Lower : Red Light District (5.10a)
By: Eric Jacobsen When: Jun 30, 2003

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Comments: I thought it kind of sucked at first as well...and I've heard that from others as well, but the more we did it, the more compelling it was. I still haven't led it, but would like to give it another go. It's fun in a scary way. I'd probably even rate it harder than 5.10a but thought I might be doing something wrong since Ruckman only gives it 5.9+.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Boulder Field
By: Eric Jacobsen When: Mar 26, 2003

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Comments: Andrew or anyone else...email me some more details about Ogden climbing!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Short Cliff w/ Three Cracks : Hesitation (5.10a)
By: Eric Jacobsen When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Great climb - I love this cliff...have only toproped, but it looks great for trad also. Three great cracks and lots of varied face climbing above. I submitted a pic with the four cracks numbered and a larger version of the same (147,148).