Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Town Wall : Narrow Arrow and further ri... : With Apologies to Walter B (5.11b)
By: Eric Hirst When: Jan 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice route that deserves a lot more traffic. The easiest Lower Wall 1st pitch that you haven't already done? 3 very distinct sections: grotty old-school 5.9, crazy-fun 11- bolted crux, then textbook off-fingers 5.10 laybacking to better jams near the top. Very safe, but pay attention to the the way your rope runs on the edge as you pucker up and commit to the final dihedral.
We used a single 70m but had a fair bit of rope left over. A single 60m would probably work as well.
|
Location: WA : Exit 38/ Far Side : Neverland : Lost Boys : Seize the Day (5.11d PG13)
By: Eric Hirst When: Aug 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bailed off this route after getting fed up with the bonebreaker runouts. Might be fun with a couple more bolts.
|
Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lookout Point Area : Lookout Point : A Group of Mysteries of Fre... (5.8+)
By: Eric Hirst When: Apr 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Derek for cleaning this one off. Short and still scruffy as of 4/15/2010, but really entertaining and a nice warm-down pitch. A great teaser for what will be someday be a very fun full-length route.
|
Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lookout Point Area : Lookout Point : Rice Krispies (5.10c) : Photo
By: Eric Hirst When: Apr 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The hardest moves are at the start, just above a ledge. I still may need to Photoshop out a couple of those pieces though. What a sissy!
|
Location: WA : Exit 32 / Little Si : World Wall
By: Eric Hirst When: Mar 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It would be really nice to see these sorted. I'd volunteer to do so myself, but I don't know the wall well enough.
To sort:
1. Sign up as admin for a spell.
2. Use the nice sort feature that got added in a while back.
Thanks, Eric
|
Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge : King Me (5.11b)
By: Eric Hirst When: Nov 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 11/11/11, the SS sport anchors at the top were getting pretty worn. We added an old bail biner to the mix. Very nice route.
|
Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge : Dave the Dude (5.11d)
By: Eric Hirst When: Nov 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 11/11/11, top anchors were unwelded cold shuts, and some of the bolts were showing rust. Nothing terrible at this point, but probably a good candidate for a little rehab work.
|
Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Courtesy Wall : Tweaked Unit (5.11b)
By: Eric Hirst When: Nov 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great warm down to give your shoulders a rest after the nearby Amarillo Sunset. Really nice movement with a well protected fingery crux.
| Iron oxide holds at the base of the climb
Submitted By: Eric Hirst on Nov 17, 2011
|
|
Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Burning Down the Couch (5.11d)
By: Eric Hirst When: Aug 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A single 60m rope is fine for the full route. I finally got on the full version this weekend after various trips up the love-seat variation, and Oh My the top part is worth doing.
|
Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Millenium Falcon (5.11a)
By: Eric Hirst When: Aug 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: As Andy said, definitely be careful topping out from p10 onto Bellygood. Lots of loose gravel/rock perched there. Belaying from the bolts there (easy to miss) rather than from a tree may help.
I wasn't expecting much, but ended up loving this route. Great variety and surprise, fantastic position, and very little "throwaway" climbing.
|
Location: WA : Vantage (Frenchman Coulee) : Sunshine Wall : King Pins : Red M&Ms (5.12a)
By: Eric Hirst When: May 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Most people toprope this after climbing George & Martha, but it's also a fantastic trad lead that I think adds a lot to Vantage. I started projecting it recently, and found that the pro is a lot better than many people seem to think. GEAR BETA: There are a couple good purple and green camalot placement down low before the real business, then it's mostly thin (3/8" or so) stoppers and maybe a couple ball nuts. The final crux is hard to protect if you're pumped or short, but again takes a solid s... more >>
|
Location: WA : Tieton River : Wild Cat Wall : Cat Crack (5.10b/c)
By: Eric Hirst When: Sep 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rap anchor is currently 2 bolts plus slings & biners. This and several other Wildcat routes would be good candidates for chains.
A great rite of passage for any WA 5.10 climber.
|
Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Borderline (5.10d)
By: Eric Hirst When: Sep 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, Andy. I agree with your pitch ratings, even though I spent years telling people the OW was 5.9+, then giggling about it afterwards. Rope drag is definitely a concern on p5 -- one less obvious trick is to use a very short QD or even a single locker at the first bolt.
I love pitch 3. The long splitter above the bolted section is sustained, but definitely not 10d. With the p2 bypass variation, I think the hardest single gear-protected move on the entire route is about 10a -- nothing as h... more >>
|
Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Town Wall : Main Wall, left side : Model Worker (5.11c)
By: Eric Hirst When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A #2 Camp Ball nut (Lowe Ball) really helps above the last bolt on the upper section, especially if the seep up there is seeping.
The upper section feels quite a bit easier to me (11a?) than the lower section, although maybe my slab skills haven't kept up. The rock quality on the final moves feels a little spooky to me though. I've finished straight up (R of the bush) both times I've done this.
|
Location: WA : Zeke's Wall
By: Eric Hirst When: Sep 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: ACCESS UPDATE
As of winter 2012, you can again legally drive up to the boulders below the wall. The catch is you need to be a member of the Washington Climber's coalition, and you need to know the combination to the gate at Reiter. You also will need a Discover pass.
See www.washingtonclimbers.org/Climbing/goldbar.htm for current details on how to do all this.
|
Location: WA : Zeke's Wall
By: Eric Hirst When: Sep 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A map which may help on the approach is at:
maps.google.com/maps/ms?t=h&hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=1057256>>>
I've marked a few routes on the map as landmarks, as well as the waterfall next to Flow and the spring above Mortal Coil.
|
Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Okanagan : ... : Max Headroom (5.10c)
By: Eric Hirst When: Jul 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This used to be my favorite trad route at Skaha. Unfortunately it was caked so thick in guano this past weekend that I found myself skipping perfect hand jams and wishing for haz-mat gear. I don't know if it's cleaner at other times of year.
|
Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Okanagan : ... : Italian Jam Shop (5.12a)
By: Eric Hirst When: Jul 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: In spite of the garish bolt paint, this is an incredible line. I started on the yellow bolts (technical crux?) and then joined the red ones to the top, with many falls and hangs in the relentless upper section.
|
RSS Feed
