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Member Since: Jul 15, 2009
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
Contact Eric Hirst


Point Rank: # 1,487
Total Points: 416
Last Year: 132
Last 30 Days: 6
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Eric Hirst been climbing?










Contributions


All 163 | Routes 20 | Areas 2 | Photos 29 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 35 | Posts 2 | Stars 59 | Ratings 14
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Upper Town Wall : ... : Wildest Dreams (5.12)
By: Eric Hirst When: Sep 30, 2014

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Comments: The best 5.10 at Index?

If you aid the 5.12b section, Wildest Dreams is only slightly more demanding than Davis Holland -> Lovin' Arms. Think of it as a 5.10+ trad route with a bit of bolted 5.11- thrown in for good measure. Then get on it.

No need for etriers on p3. The seam is less than vertical, and only lasts about 20-25 feet. One shoulder-length sling to stand in was plenty.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : House of the 7th Bobcat (5.11d)
By: Eric Hirst When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: 11d may be a "sandbag by consensus" rating; not sure. I've tried doing the crux again on TR a couple times now since I first led it, with zero success. The crux is only about 5' of climbing, but the sequence is very specific and feels much harder than any single move on Stern Farmer or (according to Jon) Bobcat Cringe.

It's maybe V4 or V5 or V6 or V7 or or 5.11b or 5.13a or something -- I don't really have a clue anymore. At least the bolts are there to hang on while you work out t... more >>


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Newhalem : Gainfully Unemployed (5.12b)
By: Eric Hirst When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: This is part of a harder project that Benjit bolted a while back. Doug recently added anchors at the top of the 5.12 climbing for an instant classic. The rating fluctuates with ego.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Borderline (5.10d)
By: Eric Hirst When: Jul 15, 2014

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Comments: When I originally suggested 5.9+ for pitch 5, I was trying to put in in the context of other Squamish offwidths. My references were March of the Kitchen Utensils (5.9), p2 of Berrycup (10a, next to Crescent Crack), Split Beaver (10b), and Boogie 'til you Puke (then 10c).

The entry moves can be baffling and don't really feel like 5.9 to me either. After that it's pretty much textbook blowfish technique. Savor the moment.


Location: WA : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : Lava Point : Lava Wall/Deadheads : B weir of the Dead (5.10a)
By: Eric Hirst When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: Aluminum hangers on the crux bolts as of 7/7/2014. Cold shut anchor. This and several other routes in the area seem overdue for a hardware upgrade.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : No Name Crags : Mine Wall : Photo
By: Eric Hirst When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: Taken from the hairpin. You have to hike up the road now, but it's not too bad. Cliff in the background is Mine Wall, but you might just want to go up and boulder. About 30 problems were established in the winter/spring of 2014. Most require at least 2-3 pads.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Zeke's Wall : Flow (5.11a)
By: Eric Hirst When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: Hi Kerwin -- I haven't heard of anyone going up there for a little while, so it may have developed some cruft in spots. I know Morgan H. said that P1 of Mortal Coil was starting to green up again. You should be fine, though -- the cruxes are also the driest and sunniest parts, so they should be OK even if there is some moss or moisture on P3 or the base of P1. Have fun, and PM me if you want a Magic Brush to give things a once-over when you're up there.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Upper Town Wall : ... : Photo
By: Eric Hirst When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: OCD challenge photo! I made Jon take the draws off after this so I could put them back on right-side-up.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Upper Town Wall : ... : The Black Flag of the Schwa... (5.10+)
By: Eric Hirst When: May 3, 2014

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Comments: Really fun climbing! Highly recommended for anyone in the area, and a great warmup for the hard stuff nearby. I'd give it 4 stars if it were longer.

Note that we swapped out the old SMC hangers from the first 2 Sideshow bolts, but did not replace these bolts. They seem OK.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : No Name Crags
By: Eric Hirst When: Apr 15, 2014

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Comments: The short approach "road" is now overgrown with alder and no longer looks like a road at all. The key is to park just where FS 62 levels out and cuts S. Leave your car at the very last spot where you can still see views across the Sky Valley, then walk another 50m along FS 62 to where a trail cuts R across a gravel berm and into a canopy of young alder and blackberry. Nippers or lawn shears can be handy if nobody else has been through lately.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : No Name Crags : West Wall
By: Eric Hirst When: Apr 15, 2014

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Comments: Rock quality here is "modest" unfortunately. The routes here are a fun way to round out your day, but so far nothing here approaches the quality of Chris Henson's cluster of routes on the Main Wall. Sorry 'bout that.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Upper Town Wall : ... : Wildest Dreams (5.12)
By: Eric Hirst When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: Our 68m rope would not have been long enough to rap or lower from the 4th pitch, although a full 70m rope would have been just enough. I used Chris' old fixed rope as a handline to lead through to the forest above. We removed Chris' rope, but the mossy/chossy top-out pitch should still be mostly pretty easy 4th class climbing, as long as it's dry.

Specifics on the thin gear:
  • A few small brass nuts
  • A #2 (red) LoweBall/Camp Ballnut is very nice for the crux of p1.
  • 3-4 @POU...
 more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Upper Town Wall : ... : Photo
By: Eric Hirst When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: Nicely cropped! I'm pretty sure I'm standing in a runner by that point. That pitch is easily aided with 3-4 purple (0) TCUs and a runner. People who actually make a serious attempt to free the thing report using a mix of grey (00) and purple TCUs.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Millenium Falcon (5.11a)
By: Eric Hirst When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: The 11a sport pitch appeared very dirty this weekend, a side effect of cleaning on the new (and excellent) Sunset Strip route which starts just R of MF and intersects with it in several places. You can easily bypass the muck by climbing portions of Sunset Strip (10d) instead.

(SS topo is easy to Google, but beware of the final "5.9" chimney on that one -- it's beastly.)


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Upper Town Wall : ... : Lovin' Arms (5.10b/c)
By: Eric Hirst When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: Finally topped out on this one yesterday, more than 20 years (!) after I first tried it. Great line, and, with the chimney variation on P2, quite a bit easier than Davis Holland.

Taking a suggestion from the Davis Holland comments, we brought 4 green 3/4 Camalots, and were able to place most or all of them on almost all 6 pitches of DH/LA. I thought the first 20 feet of P1 was the crux of LA. There were some scary blocks directly above the belay in the chimney version of P2. P3 was Type I Fun@... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Good Times (5.11a)
By: Eric Hirst When: Jul 9, 2013

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Comments: Possibly the best 11a sport route I've ever climbed.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Side Walls : ... : He was an aficionado of not... (5.10c/d)
By: Eric Hirst When: Jun 9, 2013

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Comments: Surprisingly fun, in spite of the cruft and the unfortunate approach pitch. The marginal rock on this wall is uncharacteristic of Index, but the moves are still a hoot. A 70m rope wasn't quite long enough to reach the ground in a single rap. We set directionals on the rappel to reach the mid-station.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : With Apologies to Walter B (5.11b)
By: Eric Hirst When: Jan 22, 2013

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Comments: Nice route that deserves a lot more traffic. The easiest Lower Wall 1st pitch that you haven't already done? 3 very distinct sections: grotty old-school 5.9, crazy-fun 11- bolted crux, then textbook off-fingers 5.10 laybacking to better jams near the top. Very safe, but pay attention to the the way your rope runs on the edge as you pucker up and commit to the final dihedral.

We used a single 70m but had a fair bit of rope left over. A single 60m would probably work as well.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Far Side : Neverland : ... : Seize the Day (5.11d PG13)
By: Eric Hirst When: Aug 16, 2012

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Comments: Bailed off this route after getting fed up with the bonebreaker runouts. Might be fun with a couple more bolts.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : A Group of Mysteries of Fre... (5.8+)
By: Eric Hirst When: Apr 16, 2012

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Comments: Thanks Derek for cleaning this one off. Short and still scruffy as of 4/15/2010, but really entertaining and a nice warm-down pitch. A great teaser for what will be someday be a very fun full-length route.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Photo
By: Eric Hirst When: Apr 16, 2012

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Comments: The hardest moves are at the start, just above a ledge. I still may need to Photoshop out a couple of those pieces though. What a sissy!


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 32 / Little Si : World Wall
By: Eric Hirst When: Mar 30, 2012

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Comments: It would be really nice to see these sorted. I'd volunteer to do so myself, but I don't know the wall well enough.

To sort:
1. Sign up as admin for a spell.
2. Use the nice sort feature that got added in a while back.

Thanks, Eric


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge : King Me (5.11b)
By: Eric Hirst When: Nov 18, 2011

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Comments: As of 11/11/11, the SS sport anchors at the top were getting pretty worn. We added an old bail biner to the mix. Very nice route.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge : Dave the Dude (5.11d)
By: Eric Hirst When: Nov 17, 2011

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Comments: As of 11/11/11, top anchors were unwelded cold shuts, and some of the bolts were showing rust. Nothing terrible at this point, but probably a good candidate for a little rehab work.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Courtesy Wall : Tweaked Unit (5.11b)
By: Eric Hirst When: Nov 17, 2011

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Comments: Great warm down to give your shoulders a rest after the nearby Amarillo Sunset. Really nice movement with a well protected fingery crux.
Iron oxide holds at the base of the climb
Iron oxide holds at the base of the climb



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