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Dark Shadows, the best 5.8 evar.


Member Since: Sep 25, 2003
Last Visit: Jun 2, 2013
Contact Eric Goltz


Point Rank: # 1,247
Total Points: 502
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Eric Goltz been climbing?










Contributions


All 270 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 90 | Page Improvements | Comments 42 | Posts 11 | Stars 114 | Ratings 12
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Athlete's Feat (5.11a)
By: Eric Goltz When: Sep 2, 2010

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Comments: Thanks to chains at the end of every pitch, you can easily get off this with one rope as of summer 2010.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : In Your Dreams (5.10c)
By: Eric Goltz When: Sep 2, 2010

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Comments: Nice, little route.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Skylight (WI4+ M4-5)
By: Eric Goltz When: Dec 8, 2009

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Comments: Probably obvious, but it's ill-advised to belay directly beneath P2 off of screws. Your belayer might permanently abandon you, like mine did.


Location: UT : Photo
By: Eric Goltz When: Sep 28, 2009

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Comments: Nice photo!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Passing Lane (5.9)
By: Eric Goltz When: May 21, 2009

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Comments: Two stars, contrary to the bomb rating just given. Comparable in quality to nearby routes.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Hummingbird Way aka Snively... (5.9)
By: Eric Goltz When: Mar 16, 2009

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Comments: I'm surprised people are calling the #5 cams optional... this sucker is wide!


Location: Eric Goltz : Ice : Photo
By: Eric Goltz When: Dec 5, 2008

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Comments: No. We opted not to do this pitch. The "easy" classic pitch is right of this, and features a 50-ft WI5 pillar. I believe that Carotid Artery pitch shown is WI6 when it touches down...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Emerald City (5.9)
By: Eric Goltz When: Nov 23, 2008

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Comments: Do this, then finish with the last pitch of OTH for a four-star classic, one of the best 5.9 linkups in Eldo!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13)
By: Eric Goltz When: Nov 23, 2008

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Comments: I don't think there's any move harder than 10a on the first pitch. Bring 2 blue Aliens and you can pretty much sew up P1. Exciting climb!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Hand Crack (aka White Light... (5.10b)
By: Eric Goltz When: Nov 4, 2008

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Comments: I'm writing this because it's not mentioned in the description: you can place a directional near the top of the pitch, then lower off a set of double-bolts atop Terminal Velocity. After your partner is finished cleaning, you'll be all set to TR T.V.!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : West Crack (aka Star Wars) (5.8)
By: Eric Goltz When: Nov 3, 2008

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Comments: Do this as one pitch from the lower ledge. You'll only wish the crack was longer!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : Gravity's Angel (5.11b)
By: Eric Goltz When: Nov 3, 2008

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Comments: There didn't appear to be any gear between the 1st and 2nd bolt... tread carefully as you could hit the deck before clipping #2. Otherwise, brilliant slab climbing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Grand Giraffe (5.10a)
By: Eric Goltz When: Oct 20, 2008

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Comments: I brought only a #4 for the OW, and I still had it on my harness when I finished the pitch! You're better off bringing a #6 cam and walking that up; since a #4 Camalot doesn't fit anywhere above the (good) pin. Great route!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Stand and Deliver (5.10a)
By: Eric Goltz When: Jul 29, 2008

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Comments: Good, if short, Vedauwoo face climbing. I thought getting off the ground was way harder than 10a.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Friction Slide (5.7)
By: Eric Goltz When: Jul 14, 2008

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Comments: Confusing route description: the route actually starts just a few yards climber's RIGHT from Ed's Crack, on a sort of arete w/ a protectable flake. From atop this pitch you can easily finish Ed's Crack.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Upper Slot Left (5.10)
By: Eric Goltz When: Jul 14, 2008

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Comments: This is a quality splitter with overhanging hand jams and poor feet to start. Then up the wide crack with arm bars and face climbing to a squeeze chimney, which I had difficulty getting through. Best to belay off the bolts.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Perversion (5.9)
By: Eric Goltz When: Jul 4, 2008

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Comments: "Possibly one of the all time classic routes of its grade"--- this route has 1 move of 5.9 right off the ground, the rest is all 5.7 or less! Not that this is a bad route, but this quotation is a real stretch!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Pear Buttress (5.8)
By: Eric Goltz When: Jun 23, 2008

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Comments: Fun variation: You can make it to the base of the P3 splitter in a single 70-meter pitch starting on the first, excellent pitch of Loose Ends. But be considerate of other parties, as this wandering 'pitch' dominates several of the lines on this part of the wall.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Werk Supp (5.9)
By: Eric Goltz When: Apr 25, 2008

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Comments: This would be a **** route if there was some kind of fixed anchor either atop the 10c March o' Dimes pitch, or above p2 of Werksupp. Summitting above here takes a lot of time and walking, the "East Face" isn't fun to descend either.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : South Face (5.8 R)
By: Eric Goltz When: Nov 4, 2007

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Comments: The first pitch is no joke at 5.5, particularly just before the end of the pitch. However, the second pitch really gets you thinking. Clip the pin just right of the belay, then go straight right with good feet and bad hands, until you can reeeaccch a good yellow Alien placement. Once you get this the pitch is basically over. I was reassured upon seeing the double-bolt anchor below the 3rd pitch, along with 3 protection bolts; however once you get past these there's nothing until ju... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Turnkorner (5.10a)
By: Eric Goltz When: Sep 3, 2007

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Comments: A strikingly direct line up Sundance, the short length of the climb belies its strenuous nature. I should think that a #5 is obligatory for the 2nd OW pitch (which I felt to be harder than the tech 'crux' after the bird poo belay).


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Death Canyon : Cathedral Buttress : The Snaz (5.10a)
By: Eric Goltz When: Jul 30, 2007

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Comments: To find the second pitch, you basically climb plumb straight above the giant fir tree below the route. Don't get tricked into going left in the vicinity of the chimney with the chockstone (O's topo somewhat confusingly depicts a left-slashing chimney with a chockstone; there are apparently two such features)!


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Beyer East Face I (5.9)
By: Eric Goltz When: Jul 30, 2007

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Comments: This is an excellent route, although there are some dirty sections. As always, beware of loose rocks and flakes, I dislodged a cannonball on the 'flake' pitch. I got the impression that the route isn't done often; there's only 1 piece of fixed gear (pin) on the route, on the last pitch. I recommend bringing a #4 Camalot. Although the offwidth section is easy, there isn't really any alternative gear. Don't expect to wait in line for this route, you'll be alone until you get t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : South Face (5.9+)
By: Eric Goltz When: Jul 14, 2007

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Comments: The first pitch crux (10a in Rossiter) seemed much easier than the traverse on the second pitch. I would say 5.9 (possibly R) is a good rating for the climb overall. That second pitch is scary!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Third Tier : ... : Thus Us (5.9-)
By: Eric Goltz When: Jun 8, 2007

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Comments: Damn vandals. Bring slings and rap rings/quick links if you go up there. Unless you like that nice piny scent on your rope.


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