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Born again on the last move of the Red Dihedral, h...


Member Since: Nov 29, 2006
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Eric D

Point Rank: # 2,687
Total Points: 209
Last Year: 15
Last 30 Days: 0
29 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 603 | Routes 4 | Areas | Photos 24 | Page Improvements | Comments 49 | Posts 493 | Stars 16 | Ratings 17
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Jabberwocky (5.12 R)
By: Eric D When: Jul 14, 2010

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Comments: Yup, Ray said with the y.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Change in Luck (5.12 PG13)
By: Eric D When: Jun 27, 2010

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Comments: I agree, stick clipping the 2nd bolt would basically mean you are on TR for the hard climbing. But, top roping is fun too. It's not all that necessary to stick clip, just be careful. Good climb. The runout up high is not too bad. You are on very big holds when run-out. A #2 BD cam will make you feel better.


Location: Eric D : Acopan Tepui - Venezuela : Photo
By: Eric D When: Jun 16, 2010

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Comments: It's a quartzite and sandstone mix. The sandstone is bullet hard. Hand drilling is a real pain.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Alamo Canyon : Leviathan Dome : North Face (5.10c R)
By: Eric D When: Jun 8, 2010

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Comments: The traverse pitch isn't bad at all if you drop down before starting to traverse. I wouldn't give it an R if you traverse at the right place, which you reach by downclimbing off of the belay ledge and the traversing.

Has Over the Rainbow's bolts been replaced?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Red Dwarf (5.12)
By: Eric D When: Apr 11, 2010

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Comments: Now I know why! My beta was all wrong on Aurora. I was using the 12c beta. Yes, Aurora is easier.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Resolution Arete (5.10 A1)
By: Eric D When: Mar 24, 2010

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Comments: Classic adventure route. So good. Do it in a day, this is not a good route for hauling or carrying heavy packs.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Solar Flare (5.11)
By: Eric D When: Mar 24, 2010

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Comments: A good route. Thanks for removing the bolts Eric, it was much more memorable that way. And gave me a bigger case of sewing-machine leg!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Photo
By: Eric D When: Mar 23, 2010

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Comments: It was a circus out there. Getting the nut out after everyone was falling on it involved a lot of shenanigans. Awesome route!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Red Dwarf (5.12)
By: Eric D When: Mar 14, 2010

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Comments: Nope, haven't done Aurora on gear yet. But, Red Dwarf on gear went easier for me than Aurora on bolts.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Red Dwarf (5.12)
By: Eric D When: Feb 27, 2010

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Comments: Great route! Though, both Adam and I thought it was 11d/12aish. Sun spots is a nice hard trad crag, not many of those on Mt. Lemmon. Adds a lot to the mountain. Nice work EFR and others.


Location: International : South America : Venezuela : Acopán Tepui (also Akopán T... : Rey Araguato (Araguato King... (5.11+)
By: Eric D When: Nov 2, 2009

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Comments: Contact us through MP if you want a high quality topo file.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Jabberwocky (5.12 R)
By: Eric D When: Oct 16, 2009

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Comments: I thought so too but the Kerry guide did not have a Y. I'll change it for now and ask Ray next time I see him.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : Photo
By: Eric D When: Sep 24, 2009

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Comments: Oh my god. Did you guys color coordinate your outfits on purpose? I know that you are getting married, but come on!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Unknown (L of Endgame) (5.11)
By: Eric D When: Sep 24, 2009

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Comments: The climbing is high quality and fun, but yes, it is too bad that it interferes with an established route.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : The Rainbow Wall : The Original Route (5.12)
By: Eric D When: May 26, 2009

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Comments: Great route. Don't be intimidated. Get on it! I would call many of the 5.11 pitches atleast two letter grades easier than what the guidebook gives them. The pitch ratings are pretty soft.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Air Worthy (5.12-)
By: Eric D When: Jan 21, 2009

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Comments: Sorry Eric, I pulled a big chunk off this route. Sometimes I pull so hard I just rip the rock to shreds, can't help it. There is now a exposed band of epoxy where it used to be behind a flake. I enjoyed the bottom half despite *ahem* the bolted 15 foot crack.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Oops I sharted (5.11+)
By: Eric D When: Dec 2, 2008

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Comments: Hey, I think I met you guys the night after you did this climb last winter. If I remember correctly you aided a bit of it. Has this gone free?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Left Ski Track (5.11a)
By: Eric D When: Dec 1, 2008

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Comments: Before getting on this I was intimidated by the stories of poor gear below the bolt. But, I found three bomber and easy placements below the bolt and thought the route to be very safe. I couldn't have asked for better gear.


Location: Meghan : Stuff : Photo
By: Eric D When: Nov 24, 2008

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Comments: Hi Meagan,

We got our ropes stuck while rapping that chimney too! I did have to go on belay to go up and get them unstuck, but luckly it was easy. See you at JTree soon.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Photo
By: Eric D When: Jan 7, 2008

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Comments: Is that Chris Sharma?


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Roof Ranch : Squat (5.12-) : Photo
By: Eric D When: Nov 30, 2007

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Comments: Beagle - That is getting way too specific to judge a send with. I will sometimes not tape for thin hands and tape for teacups, as do many climbers. Would that technique also not count?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
By: Eric D When: Apr 13, 2007

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Comments: Beautiful dome, though someone drilled bolts everywhere on the upper section. Too many bolts for a wilderness climbing area.


Location: VA : Old Rag : Reflector Oven : Strawberry Fields (5.9+)
By: Eric D When: Mar 1, 2007

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Comments: PG13? It's a splitter crack, you get gear anywhere you want it the whole way up!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Sahuaro Corners : Javalina (5.10)
By: Eric D When: Jan 30, 2007

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Comments: I think you did miss something. I did it this weekend and it felt 5.10. Though I think that a back-step at the crux is crucial to keeping the grade at 5.10.


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