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Member Since: Jul 16, 2011
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
Contact Eric Chabot


Point Rank: # 5,100
Total Points: 70
Last Year: 54
Last 30 Days: 1
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 201 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvments | Comments 40 | Posts 101 | Stars 35 | Ratings 21
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Armed and Dangerous, and Of... (5.10b)
By: Eric Chabot When: Jun 27, 2014

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Comments: A great line, much deserving of hype, but clusterphobia is even better in my opinion. Get on them both!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : West Bell Tower : Beckey Route (5.9 R)
By: Eric Chabot When: May 18, 2014

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Comments: A fun and scary alternate finish for the final pitch, that will have you asking, what would Fred Beckey do?

From the belay tree above the big corner (p3), climb up left and over a tree to a ledge below a slabby face with several large black chickenheads. Slinging the chicken heads as pro, move up and left to the arete and then back across the face into a wide, rounded groove. Stem across and up, running it out as the chickenheads shrink to the size of grapes (crux). Pull onto a final 20 feet o... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Sail : Bong Bong Firecracker (5.7)
By: Eric Chabot When: May 16, 2014

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Comments: Didn't carry the #4 up to the sail, but made do with 2 #3s. If 5.7 is your limit you'll probably want one.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Sail : Flying Dutchman (5.10c R)
By: Eric Chabot When: May 16, 2014

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Comments: Such an awesome route! Buttery finger locks, and a fun layback section.

Flakes at the top are definitely suspect. You can find slopey face holds left of the looseness and avoid pulling on them, but even if they ripped off it wouldn't be too too bad, the loosest rock is right at the beginning of the runout.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Gas Boost (5.8)
By: Eric Chabot When: May 1, 2014

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Comments: Super slimy holds and awkward moves make this one a route to avoid IMO.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Fern Buttress : Orchard Wall : Triple Treat (5.10a)
By: Eric Chabot When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: *cough* sandbag *cough*...

my buddy broke the foot hold off the crux of this route yesterday. Have fun.

PS, I placed a 4 at the start and a 1 under the first roof. With a sling on the 1, drag wasn't a problem.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Prow : ... : Photo
By: Eric Chabot When: Feb 28, 2014

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Comments: filthy hobbits you ruins it!


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Fern Point - Party Buttress : Exoduster (5.10b/c)
By: Eric Chabot When: Dec 10, 2013

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Comments: I thought this route had beautiful movement and awesome, fun holds on a clean, steep face. Lots of haters out there seem to disagree but I thought it kicked ass! The kind of climb that gym setters everywhere try to emulate. Super safe falls, good clip stances, interesting sequences. True there may be better 5.10 sport routes at the New but it's a world class area and this climb stands out even here.

It is pretty polished though.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : The Spider's Web : Esthesia (5.10a)
By: Eric Chabot When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: I did the OW section differently than that guy in the photo (didn't layback, either).


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Fern Point - Party Buttress : Party in My Mind (5.10b)
By: Eric Chabot When: Nov 27, 2013

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Comments: Super fun route, one of the best I've ever done! GEAR BETA SPOILER ALERT: I was very glad to have a #0 c3...it was my first piece after the bolt and without it the start would have felt really scary. Although I guess a small sideways nut could work too.

From the ground it barely even looks like a route. The 'beta:' is just keep going up, it's all there and so good!! I thought this was physically easier than 4 sheets to the wind at Junkyard, but trickier gear and a bit scarier (some small ... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall : Four Sheets to the Wind (5.9+)
By: Eric Chabot When: Nov 27, 2013

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Comments: Way too insecure at the crux to be 10a...definitely 9+!! (but very well protected) One of the best routes I have ever done in my life.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Turner's Flake (5.8)
By: Eric Chabot When: Oct 20, 2013

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Comments: Awesome route~! linking this with Thin Air and Pine Tree Eliminate made for one of the most fun climbs I've done in a long time. While I wouldn't call this route run-out, it had some spicy moments for sure. I climbed with double ropes and walked some large cams (up to a #4) and rope drag wasn't too bad.

The east's answer to Rye Crisp at city of rocks in ID


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 2. South Buttress : Atlantis Area : Tranquility (5.10b)
By: Eric Chabot When: Oct 20, 2013

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Comments: Awesome route! Must do at the grade. Well protected, perfect fingerlocks. For full value, jam in some small cams (c3s) and crank the awesome direct finish through the bulge at the top on (mostly) positive holds.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks : Wallface : The Diagonal (5.8)
By: Eric Chabot When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: On pitch 7, an alternative finish goes straight up where the classic finish goes right towards the final corner with the piton. You can avoid the stemming by climbing a hand-size crack and face holds (5.7/8). This finish is fun and well protected without that #4 cam that you carried all the way from the car.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Bonehead Roof (5.10c)
By: Eric Chabot When: Oct 5, 2013

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Comments: Accident on this route today. Thanks to everyone who helped the injured climber evacuate.

The climber fell from the mantel move just below the chains. His top quickdraw came unclipped from the rock (not backclipped, when he came to rest it was on his rope, undamaged. The bolt did not break or pull out).

He had backcleaned the draw below it, the only one on the slabby ramp leading up to the final overhang. This meant that when the top draw unclipped he took a 50-60 ft fall ending up below the f... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Curl Up and Fly (5.12a)
By: Eric Chabot When: Sep 18, 2013

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Comments: Yesterday I utilized some quebecois beta that made the crux feel quite a bit easier. I won't give it away but it makes the route feel much easier than other .12a routes I have tried (peanut man, vallee daze, captain hook, weevil kneevil).


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Underdog (5.10a)
By: Eric Chabot When: Sep 13, 2013

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Comments: Awesome route!

My partner found some sweet beta that makes the crux super smooth and fun with no traversing. If you've already done the route, try going straight up instead next time!

I climbed this the other day while it was literally pouring rain.


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Green Mile (5.9)
By: Eric Chabot When: Sep 6, 2013

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Comments: Fun route... challenging when wet. I found myself skipping the first bolt by climbing up right of it and clipping the second but if this climb is pushing it for you then maybe stick clip. Or maybe this bolt is easy to reach when it's dry.


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : The Green Egg (aka "Green M... (V6- PG13)
By: Eric Chabot When: Sep 2, 2013

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Comments: Better bring lots of pads... if this problem were in the gunks it would have a platform of sticks built on top of the shitty landing.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : Truffle Hog (5.10b/c)
By: Eric Chabot When: Sep 2, 2013

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Comments: A sweet line with good rests throughout. Can be reasonably well protected just with draws-- since the face is so clean, there isn't much to hit if you lob off (I had to keep telling myself that during the lead). Memorable, committing moves on the top third of the route!


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Black Jack Boulder : Black Jack Crack (5.10d V2)
By: Eric Chabot When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: At Rumney, there is nothing splitterer.

doubles not needed IMHO. Single rack from .3 - 2 plus nuts will sew this puppy up. Can use #3 for the anchor.


Location: NH : Rumney : Apocalypse Walls : Apocalypse Later (5.11c/d)
By: Eric Chabot When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: Savage is the best word to describe this fantastic short 11+.


Location: NH : Rumney : Apocalypse Walls : Captain Fingers (5.11c)
By: Eric Chabot When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: no quick clips anymore, bring yer ATC


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : Maxim (V7)
By: Eric Chabot When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: Skip the sit start and you can have fun working the classic moves even if you're weak like I am. Great route.


Location: VT : Riverside Walls : Sport Wall : Ambidextrous (5.10d)
By: Eric Chabot When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: Couldn't figure out the arete moves, I felt like the best/most direct line was up the slab right of the arete, but this meant that fall would have been kinda pendulum-y from the bolts. Dirty but definitely worth doing!


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