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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Couch Fire Crag : Loveseat (5.11d)
By: Eric Carlos When: Mar 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: You don't need to start on Sofa Mart. The direct start is fun and is probably V4-V5 to the first bolt.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Carter Lake : Skunk Rub Boulder : Daily Chuck Dose (V8)
By: Eric Carlos When: Nov 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: So my brother and I were on this a couple days ago, and a large pebble broke out of the right hand start hold, making it substantially bigger. Where before you could only get your middle finger about a pad deep, now you can get at least three fingers that deep. Probably takes at least a grade off of it, as now the start is no longer the hardest move.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Big Tuna (5.11a)
By: Eric Carlos When: Sep 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Most fun route on the wall but still on the crumbly side. Not as bad as the others.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Yellow Tail (5.11+)
By: Eric Carlos When: Sep 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: For "bullet-proof" rock, I sure did break quite a few holds on this turd.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Golden Rose (5.12a)
By: Eric Carlos When: Sep 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Granite is not that solid. I broke holds on every route on this wall including this route on the bullet looking lower portion.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Frisky Cliff : Sinopia (5.13a)
By: Eric Carlos When: Sep 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is also a line that shares the first crux and then, from the jug, goes right through another crux and up to the slab.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : The Dark Side : Shanghai (5.12d)
By: Eric Carlos When: Aug 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is 12d in all three guidebooks. It is probably low in the grade, but much harder than most 12c's at the red.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Elanor (5.11d)
By: Eric Carlos When: Jun 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree that hanging the left draw on the anchor is a pain, hence, I hung the right, clipped in, and then pulled up to hang the left. "One for the send, two for safety". Not worth moving the anchors because it would only make cleaning harder.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Chickenshit Armchair Enviro... (5.12d)
By: Eric Carlos When: May 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Love those "chickenshit armchairs".
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Tell-Tale Heart (5.12b)
By: Eric Carlos When: May 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, the crux clip can be skipped, and the fall is fine.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon
By: Eric Carlos When: May 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can you access from Boulder Falls. We hiked down from the upper lot, and pretty much bushwhacked the whole way, skirting "no trespassing" signs. Really was a pain in the ass.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Free Fall (5.12a)
By: Eric Carlos When: May 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jon, funny, but V4 doesn't translate into 11c/d. One of your two grade suggestions must be wrong, they are mutually exclusive.
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Location: UT : Joe's Valley : New Joe's : The Closet : Pimpn' Jeans (V4)
By: Eric Carlos When: May 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A really fun variation is to start on the jug on the far right, and drop down and left into the crimps, working your way over and finishing on Pimpin' Jeans. Makes it V5 or so, as the first two moves are the hardest.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Pop Rock : Dirty Low Down (V6)
By: Eric Carlos When: Apr 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a really fun problem. A few powerful moves out a steep prow. Have a spotter because of the downward slope.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Carter Lake : Mars Boulder : Mantelope (V5)
By: Eric Carlos When: Apr 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: So, my understanding is the that the standard sit start is from the left undercling crimp and right crimp. Today I did a lower version starting matched on a flat sidepull and then went to the right, then fell into the left undercling crimp, adding two difficult moves to get to the regular sit start. Anyone else done it this way? The sidepull I started on did have chalk on it. Felt much harder than the standard sit start.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Carter Lake : Skunk Rub Boulder : Daily Chuck Dose (V8)
By: Eric Carlos When: Apr 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did the standard finish and the Skunk Rub finish. I feel that the standard is hard V7, and the Skunk Rub finish is solid V8 and makes for a more quality and not so short lived climb. This thing has a couple hard moves anyway, especially throwing around the lip while cutting feet if you are short. Hard to control that swing.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Second Flatiron : Freeway (5.0)
By: Eric Carlos When: Apr 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did the solo for the first time two weeks ago. What an amazing climb. Last Friday, Apr 6th, was inspired to do a car to car time - 47:24. Today, 41:52. Goal is sub-40 minutes, but I lose about three minutes total in changeover at top and bottom with climbing shoes. I need approach shoes to compete with the big boys.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Second Flatiron : The Gutter (V?)
By: Eric Carlos When: Apr 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you stay low through the beginning and middle, this thing is definitely V7/13a. The gastons and crimps are pretty tough in that section. I would say there is a 10 ft V5/V6 under there. That, with the rest of the climb, it is Solid V7 IMO.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : Mission Control (V1)
By: Eric Carlos When: Mar 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did the no heel hooks, pretty much campus hand traverse to the end. Pretty fun and about V3.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Empire of the Fenceless (5.12a)
By: Eric Carlos When: May 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Only in Boulder have I heard a difference between onsight and redpoint grades. Seems ridiculous. So, if it takes 8 attempts, does that bump the grade to 10a?
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Bob Marley : Beta-vul Pipeline (5.12a)
By: Eric Carlos When: Apr 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Betavul pipeline, not Beattyville
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Terrain Boulders : Parasol (V5)
By: Eric Carlos When: Mar 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: No undercling jug and short makes this several moves on small holds to reach the lip.
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