Point Rank: # 3,493
Total Points: 99
Last Year: 50
Last 30 Days: 0
How do you get points?
| Areas are worth 15 |
| Routes are worth 10 |
| Photos are worth 5 |
| Comments are worth 1 |
Where has Eric and Lucie been climbing?
| |
Contributions
| All (206) | Routes | Areas | Photos (15) | Comments (24) | Posts (131) | Stars (20) | Ratings (16) | | Page 1 of 9. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Next> |
Contributed Photos |
| Photo |
Caption |
Location |
Great Image |
Date |
| "stacked" axle | Climbing Gear Discussion : New BD cams - rumor? : Post | | Jul 17, 2012 |
| Quail Fire closure map 070612 | Northern Utah & Idaho : Quail Fire in SLC : Post | | Jul 7, 2012 |
| Map of Quail fire and associated closures (07/05/12) | Northern Utah & Idaho : Quail Fire in SLC : Post | | Jul 6, 2012 |
| Quail fire closure map (from https://inciweb.nwcg.gov/ftp/InciWeb/UTWCF/2012-07-03-21:08-quail/picts/pict-20120704-171048-0.jpeg) | Northern Utah & Idaho : Quail Fire in SLC : Post | | Jul 5, 2012 |
| Lone Peak Cirque July 1st, 2012 | Northern Utah & Idaho : lone peak conditions : Post | | Jul 5, 2012 |
| 11 Mile fire perimeter. | Colorado & Rocky Mountain R... : Fire near 11 Mile : Post | | Jun 19, 2012 |
| fire near 11 mile Canyon | Colorado & Rocky Mountain R... : Fire near 11 Mile : Post | | Jun 18, 2012 |
| BD nut showing where to apply paint | Climbing Gear Discussion : Best way to mark stoppers? : Post | | Apr 30, 2012 |
| home prices in Boulder | Colorado & Rocky Mountain R... : What's Boulder, CO really l... : Post | | Aug 10, 2011 |
| map of proposed development | Nevada : Red Rock threatened by deve... : Post | | Jul 31, 2011 |
| Map of proposed development on Blue Diamond Hill (please view full size for the full impact) | Nevada : Red Rock threatened by deve... : Post | | Jul 31, 2011 |
| This hopefully gives a decent idea of what we're facing | Nevada : Red Rock threatened by deve... : Post | | Jul 28, 2011 |
| Blue Diamond hill facing red rocks | Nevada : Red Rocks threatened by dev... | | Apr 28, 2011 |
| Stealth Pack | Climbing Gear Discussion : Summit pack opinions : Post | | Feb 14, 2011 |
| Jet Pack | Climbing Gear Discussion : Summit pack opinions : Post | | Feb 14, 2011 |
Contributed Comments | | |
|---|
Location: CA : High Sierra : Keeler Needle : Harding Route (5.10+)
By: Eric and Lucie When: Aug 6, 2012 | view comment >> | Comments: Really good route, I thought, despite the lackluster initial pitches.
We had a #4.5 Camalot and used it a lot, so I would highly recommend carrying a piece that size (#4.5 old style Camalot or #5 C4).
It is not needed for the crux pitch though. That pitch is very well protected with a variety of gear in the cracks inside the OW (which I found very solid).
The old bolts are alongside a section of the pitch where the climbing is much easier and more secure (5.9 chimneying m... more >>
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Mt. Conness : South West Face (Harding) R... (5.10c)
By: Eric and Lucie When: Aug 6, 2012 | view comment >> | Comments: We got seriously sandbagged on the approach to this route: I think most people should expect between 4 and 6 hours carrying full gear for this route as a team of two...
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : South Summit Wall : Center Thumb (5.9+)
By: Eric and Lucie When: Jul 5, 2012 | view comment >> | Comments: I too found p1 to require more care than the p4 crux, which is a splitter jam crack.
Great route.
On p5, we traversed the small ledge to the obvious flakes, climbed those for a while, then stepped right into a gorgeous splitter crack and followed that straight up to the top. Really fun pitch, I thought.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque
By: Eric and Lucie When: Jul 5, 2012 | view comment >> | Comments: Since we could not find this info elsewhere and had to find out for ourselves (I hate carrying water!), here goes:
Alpine approach:
Water can be found:
1. 15 minutes before the first hamongog at a tiny stream that runs right across the dirt road. Not sure how reliable this is in late season. This is about 45 minutes from the trailhead with heavy packs.
2. At the entrance to the first hamongog. Looks like year-round stream. About 1 hour from TH with heavy packs.
3. At the spring just ... more >>
|
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Saber
By: Eric and Lucie When: Jun 22, 2012 | view comment >> | Comments: As of June 2012, all rap stations are in good shape with fresh slings/cords and good rings or 'biners.
The third anchor is still less than comforting given what it is attached to (large, wedged block whose stability is hard to judge), but I could not find any obvious way to improve/replace it. I for one would not have any problem with a pair of bolts on the nice solid rock 30 feet or so below this one and right at the edge of the drop....
Also, one minor correction to Tony's rap instructions:... more >>
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Sidetrack (5.9)
By: Eric and Lucie When: Jun 11, 2012 | view comment >> | Comments: Someone should modify the description of this route to remove any suggestion to connect into Mainliner. Pitch 5 of SideTrack is the crux, the best pitch, and the main reason to do the route in the first place. Avoiding it by connecting with Mainliner seems like the strangest idea....
BTW, I think that one of the best 5.9 lines you can do on Sundance is to link the FIRST 3 pitches of Mainliner, followed by p5 of Sidetrack!
|
Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : The Checkerboard Wall : Monkey and the Engineer (5.10-)
By: Eric and Lucie When: Jun 4, 2012 | view comment >> | Comments: I thought the route looked less than inspiring from the ground....
But p1 and p4 are quite fun. P4 protects well despite its appearance.
|
Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : The Checkerboard Wall : King Me (5.10)
By: Eric and Lucie When: Jun 4, 2012 | view comment >> | Comments: Found this route quite enjoyable.
First pitch has really good 5.10 with sharp holds and pretty good pro.
Watch for a loose block just right of the pin.
P2 is a long wide crack on pretty clean rock. Not bad at all.
BTW, I find it surprising that this route would not have been climbed before '07... was that pin really placed in 2007?
|
Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : A Midsummer's Night Dream (5.11a)
By: Eric and Lucie When: Jun 4, 2012 | view comment >> | Comments: Great climb, particularly combined with Sex Comedy.
Even though I think there is one bona fide 5.11a move on p2, the pitch is not sustained and therefore quite soft for .11.
BTW, based on the description here, I was expecting the pitch to be a "strenuous... finger crack". Instead, I found the pitch to be mostly in balance, technical, varied, and with short powerful cruxes between good stances. Really fun!
I found p3 long and sustained with some tricky climbing.
And if you do the Sex Comed... more >>
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Face (5.11b)
By: Eric and Lucie When: May 14, 2012 | view comment >> | Comments: Wow! Varied, fun, steep, and well protected.
Note about pro for 3rd pitch and to clarify previous posts: what you'll need to make this pitch safe is the largest BD cam: this would be a #6 C4 (the new) or a #5 Camalot (the old). Both are green and extend to 7+ inches. You'll be walking this baby up several feet at a time several times between other good placements. I did not leave it placed and ended up using it for the last anchor too.
|
| | Page 1 of 9. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Next> |
|
RSS Feed
