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Member Since: May 21, 2004
Last Visit: Mar 28, 2014
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Point Rank: # 1,252
Total Points: 478
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
17 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 179 | Routes 20 | Areas 7 | Photos 25 | Page Improvments | Comments 48 | Posts 58 | Stars 21 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Finger Rock Canyon : Ignorance Is Bliss : Ignorance Is Bliss (5.7)
By: eMurdock When: Nov 2, 2013

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Comments: I didn't think it was an FA when Andy and I did it a couple years ago but it felt like it. This route has really good, Windy Point style rock and a spicy finish. Hand drilled a bolt at the top and I think we left a fixed nut perhaps. Way harder than 5.7 IMO. Good runout on a small, TCU. We also TRd the hard face to the left. Also, behind that tower, Andy and I did 2 or 3 other routes. One was a really good offwidth/handcrack. Another was a 2 pitch route with a 5.9ish first pitch that needed some... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Hebrew Hammer (5.12-)
By: eMurdock When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments:
The Hebrew Hammer
The Hebrew Hammer



Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : R4 (5.9)
By: eMurdock When: Nov 3, 2011

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Comments: I think you mean zone 12 North (south is for the southern hemisphere).


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Photo
By: eMurdock When: Oct 3, 2011

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Comments: That's Steve.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : Photo
By: eMurdock When: Feb 4, 2011

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Comments: I deleted my comment because it was long winded. I am just surprised by the above comments and the propagation of this discussion.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : Photo
By: eMurdock When: Dec 22, 2010

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Comments: I'd recognize jim's blue undershirt anywhere. Pretty good stuff fellas.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : The Wasteland : The Wasteland (5.8)
By: eMurdock When: Dec 16, 2010

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Comments: Charles, I finally did this route after living in AZ for nearly 17 years. The traverses are on good plates and could protect well. The route does not actually involve tricky route finding, just follow the Kerry guide descriptions and photo. With a 70 meter rope we cruised the route in 4 pitches without rope drag. P1 climb up to base of chimney, P2 chimney and climb to base of roof, P3, traverse right and over roof and back left and down under juggy roof, P4 straight up to the top. It also avoids... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Unknown (5.12-)
By: eMurdock When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: Dan,
No. This has nothing to do with friends and we, as a community, are not to be blamed for a route like this. If you need to cast blame; the FA is to be blamed. My silly notion is based on the fact that I see no indication (and have personally done a lot of research on this very topic) that people are learning dubious FA behaviors and imposing them on areas with stricter ethics. Instead, anecdotal evidence shows the opposite; experienced FAs are becoming more lax with thei... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Unknown (5.12-)
By: eMurdock When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: Dan,
You say that my points of view are narrow but they are actually far from narrow. Narrow is to think that all things are equal and the same ethics are to be applied everywhere. You say, "As I am treating all rock with the same ethics across the board and you are going from formation to formation and creating different ethics for each, a little confusing." Things may get a little confusing for you, but that does not mean simple is the way to be. Think harder. When we consider all the climbing... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Unknown (5.12-)
By: eMurdock When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: Whoah. Let me first say that I have climbed the route and I saw what the holds on pitch 4 look like. I wish Geir could post some pics, but the holds are questionable because they have a couple interesting features. One, there are no other holds like them to the left or right of the bolt line (ladder); two, they have distinctive, arcuate, chip patterns near the back of the holds and smooth, glued tops; and three, they are unlike the rest of the holds on the rest of climb and a... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : 3/8 Mexican (5.11+)
By: eMurdock When: Nov 3, 2010

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Comments: It should be noted noted that I put the route down, not up. I first top roped the route, cleaned the grunge, and made sure the gear was OK. Therefore, placing good gear in the short crack at the start during an onsight will be a bit more difficult than the FA.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Swinging from the Upper Lim... (5.11-)
By: eMurdock When: Nov 2, 2010

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Comments: Andy, perhaps you should fix the first bolt on a new route that will 'probably' stay put. Otherwise, sweet route.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing
By: eMurdock When: Jul 11, 2010

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Comments: I'll be visiting Albuquerque between July 13 and July 20. Anyone need a partner for the Sandias or anywhere else cool enough to climb. Trad or sport. Cheers.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Airgasm (5.10)
By: eMurdock When: Jun 14, 2010

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Comments: Mike, the description does not say shitty anchor. It says to clip the anchors on Stupid Human Tricks (SHT). They are there.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : ... : Photo
By: eMurdock When: Feb 10, 2010

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Comments: Joe is correct. If you look really closely you will see the rope leading to me belaying John on the newer climb (11a?) that Jimbo put up to the right of CS. Paola is also at the base of the cliff puttering around. Those were very memorable and fun days. Thanks for posting this.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Golden Beaver Left (5.13-)
By: eMurdock When: Dec 18, 2009

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Comments: Another great tick for the tribe. Great job David!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon
By: eMurdock When: Dec 12, 2009

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Comments: Very nice topo! Here are some additions that might be helpful.
I thought Route 7 was rated about 10d by the FA.
Route 15 is better if you don't traverse left all the way to wide crack, but instead climb the thin finger crack on the right to the anchors on 14 (~10b).
I think Route 4 is harder than 5.6 but it might be the 5.9 corner further right.
Route 22 is 5.9 gear.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
By: eMurdock When: Nov 17, 2009

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Comments: Nice work Luis!! You sure Scott A hasn't climbed 6 or more routes. Seems like he may have, maybe not? Dean Brault and I did 3 routes in ~4 hours without simul-climbing (and running off the descent) about 5 or 6 years ago, so I can see how 8 would be possible with a fixed rappel. I remember Dean looking at me and shaking his head after I got up to the belay on the first pitch. My heart rate was up from climbing fast. He said I needed to climb faster. Dean was so smooth but I was pretty exhausted ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Isle of You : ... : Isle of You (5.9)
By: eMurdock When: Nov 8, 2009

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Comments: FBA (first barefoot ascent) 11/8/09 - Andy B. Andy did it with no shoes, no chalk, and with a wicked hangover.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: eMurdock When: Oct 5, 2009

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Comments: Sorry, I posted this topo several years ago when there were only a couple routes at this crag. I was not very forward thinking and believed that the area was tapped and that the rock quality was not conducive to more routes. Turns out there were 20 or 30 more really good routes put up. The other topo is pretty comprehensive. I can't delete this topo because it was posted before MP.com was up and running. Any admin guy should feel free to delete this.

Warning: The name of this crag is now the G... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Arivaca Lake : I dont Know (V1)
By: eMurdock When: Aug 24, 2009

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Comments: Dale,
I think I met you a couple weeks ago at Munchkinland. You guys were happily clipping bolts that day I think. Huh?

Anyway, I would love to know where these Arivaca routes are because we have family there. Don't assume Tucson folks won't walk too far to routes. There are plenty of us who love new routes and who have the desire and fitness to climb in the backcountry. So please share your route info or don't bother taunting people online.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : Chessman Area
By: eMurdock When: Oct 23, 2008

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Comments: Erica B. redpointed Helium (5.12) at the Chessman today!! Another 12 for the tribe.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : It Crack (5.11b)
By: eMurdock When: Oct 6, 2008

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Comments: I climbed this last week after not doing it for almost a decade. The 'new' anchors are equipped with rap links but are way too far back to be of any use for rapping (they are fine for setting up an anchor and walking off). I am going to move them closer to the edge on the upper block so that the route can be set up after a lead or TR with a couple draws. I will make sure it does not preclude the topout moves. It will just save rope wear and a little bit of time. This is a good place to run ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Nancy's Thumb Tower (Regula... (5.4)
By: eMurdock When: Jun 27, 2008

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Comments: huh. i actually think it is a pretty cool thing. it's a really worthwhile addition to the super mellow solo/scramble circuit because it gets you to the top of a spire and it is possible to downclimb.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Whale Dome : Dem Bones (5.10 R)
By: eMurdock When: May 7, 2007

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Comments: Pitch 2 and Pitch 3 of this description can easily be linked with a 60m rope to make a 170 foot pitch. Also, the original route does not bust left to meet Moby Dick or climb past any bolts up high. Pitch 4 (or 5 in the description above) climbs up and right up the dinosaur-spine-looking dike of competent rock. I think that is the routes namesake.

In addition, and oddly, if you are using Kerry's backcountry guide, note that the photo of the climber on Dem Bones second pitch is backwards.


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