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Smear, smear, smear


Member Since: Jun 20, 2010
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Emerson Takahashi


Point Rank: # 550
Total Points: 1,028
Last Year: 222
Last 30 Days: 1
4 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Emerson Takahashi been climbing?










Emerson Takahashi

 
Contributions

Contributions


All (384) | Routes (50) | Areas (15) | Photos (46) | Comments (73) | Posts (9) | Stars (135) | Ratings (56)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Left Fork : Raiden Area : Raiden (V6) : Photo
By: Emerson Takahashi When: Apr 4, 2014

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Comments: for the record, someone left those nasty tick marks there before me.
got them brushed off though :)


Location: UT : Ibex
By: Emerson Takahashi When: Mar 15, 2014

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Comments: If the only good boulders you're finding are v7 or harder, you're doing it wrong.

Definitely tons of quality problems from v0-5
The Cow Boulder as well as Captain Choss offer good easy climbs, driving out to Warm Point or Candyland also brings you to really great easy problems.


Location: UT : Ibex : Bouldering : Candyland
By: Emerson Takahashi When: Mar 15, 2014

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Comments: Please be a responsible desert camper.

Bring your own firewood, don't destroy the beautiful grove of juniper trees.
Leave the campsite cleaner than when you got there!

To minimize impact on the approach to the boulders, walk up the dirt road until you are able to walk straight to the Loaf boulder, parallel with the cliffs.
Be mindful of the cryptobiotic soil crust


Location: UT : Ibex : Bouldering : Candyland : Hamster (V1)
By: Emerson Takahashi When: Mar 15, 2014

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Comments: On the southwest(uphill) facing side of the boulder is a v0 arete, and 10 ft to the right of the arete, there are a few other good lowball warm up problems


Location: UT : Ibex : Bouldering : Candyland : Unknown Crack (V3-4)
By: Emerson Takahashi When: Mar 15, 2014

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Comments: There is a really fun variation of this problem that probably goes between v4-5, and is more of a direct line up the boulder, instead of following the crack all the way to the right.

Same starting moves- move to the good flat-ish pocket, and bring your other hand into the mono just to the left. From there, move your right hand up the crack into the next hold as an undercling(crux). Set your feet up from there, fire straight up to the ledge and top out


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : Secret Garden : ... : Slab (V0)
By: Emerson Takahashi When: Mar 9, 2014

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Comments: one can sit/squat start to add a few moves and maybe bump the grade to v2/3


Location: UT : Triassic : Golden Ladle : West Cat Daddy : 9. Unnamed (V4)
By: Emerson Takahashi When: Mar 7, 2014

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Comments: This problem starts in the jug pockets right next to What's New Pussycat, and moves to the right, to a deep, flat slot. From here you can go out around the corner to jugs and top out(v3), or straight up through slopers(v4).

Fun line to get warmed up on


Location: UT : Triassic : Petroglyph : Homemade Goodness (V5)
By: Emerson Takahashi When: Mar 7, 2014

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Comments: make sure to take a few steps back at first to look for the top out holds.

Easy for the grade, but a little spooky at the top.
Totally classic and pure line

Hardest part for me(I'm short) was traversing left in the big sloping slots at the top before topping out.


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Right Fork : UMWA Boulder : UMWA Problem (V0)
By: Emerson Takahashi When: Feb 22, 2014

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Comments: haha, that explains a lot...
I remember it being really easy first time I tried this thing a while ago, then the next time I thought about trying it, just the start felt significantly harder!


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Left Fork : The Sandbox : Glow Worm (V6)
By: Emerson Takahashi When: Feb 22, 2014

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Comments: This problem starts in the middle of the boulder, starting on the fat tufa and decent feet.

Hardest part is probably lifting your ass off the ground. Slap once or twice up the tufa and grab the jug at the lip. Super easy to dab on the rock beneath the problem, so keep that in mind.

Overall, it's a pretty fun 2-3 move problem that deserves doing if you're in the area


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Left Fork : Riverside Boulders : K-Town (V4)
By: Emerson Takahashi When: Feb 22, 2014

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Comments: "K-Town is inexplicably the namesake for this boulder"

Probably unknown to newer visitors to Joe's Valley, but the words, "K-Town" were spray painted onto the side of the boulder.

Thankfully since then, it has been removed.
Still finding lots of trash down by the boulder anyways though...


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Right Fork : The Death Scream Area (aka ... : O Face (V5)
By: Emerson Takahashi When: Feb 22, 2014

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Comments: felt a little sandy when i came up this season to check it out.

I'm sure with time this will clean up into a great problem.


Location: UT : Ibex : Bouldering : Warm Point
By: Emerson Takahashi When: Feb 19, 2014

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Comments: Warm Point is an excellent place that one could easily spend an entire day at.

The boulder up and to the left of the parking(about 200 ft) has many great climbs from v0-3.
To the right of that boulder is a flat, slightly overhanging face with a beautiful v6-7 problem on it.

There is also a great little cluster of boulders about 300ft to the right of the parking lot near some junipers. There's a nice, short v3-4 problem here that faces the parking lot.

Happy exploring!


Location: UT : Ibex : Bouldering : Warm Point : Photo
By: Emerson Takahashi When: Feb 19, 2014

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Comments: wow, I don't think there's anymore vegetation growing around that first, big boulder anymore.

Crazy. I hope that all visitors will respect the fragile desert ecosystem before it all turns to sand


Location: WY : Fremont Canyon : Pathfinder Marina : Clueless (5.9)
By: Emerson Takahashi When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: This was pretty fun!

I think this route was my introduction into real friction climbing.
was hard at the time, but nice to come back to.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : Cabbage Patch : Fungus (V5)
By: Emerson Takahashi When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: yes, v5 is from the sit.

I do agree that the higher start goes at about v3


Location: UT : Price Canyon : Baby's Got Biceps Boulder : The Spider (V2-3)
By: Emerson Takahashi When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: Tanner,
if you read the description of the problem, I clearly state that the v2 goes from the higher set of holds, and not the original start, which grk10vq states is about v5(and I agree)

If you try from the start in the description, it's around v2-3

My bad for not having any beta on the area, I just went there, and saw that no one had posted any information on MP, so I added the routes on here.

good job on the sit start tho


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Outback Bouldering : False Hueco Boulder : False Hueco (V1)
By: Emerson Takahashi When: Nov 17, 2013

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Comments: There is a fun v3/4 variation that starts on the same holds, but moves right to a rail before continuing straight up on the right side of the hueco.


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Right Fork : Buoux boulder : Bowling Ball (V4)
By: Emerson Takahashi When: Nov 2, 2013

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Comments:
  • ************************* beta alert ************************

Last season I failed over and over, trying to gaston the crimp above the sloper with my right hand BEFORE trying to lift my foot up.

I got it without any trouble at all this time by just getting the heel hook on the sloper first, and then locking off to gain the higher up crimps


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : New Joe's : Pitbull : Pitbull (V6)
By: Emerson Takahashi When: Nov 2, 2013

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Comments: seems like there would be a nice extension if the line continued up the arete using the great crimps on the overhanging face, and heel hooks and slopers on the arete. maybe goes for v7?


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : New Joe's : Area 51 : Goatee Traverse (V3-4)
By: Emerson Takahashi When: Oct 26, 2013

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Comments: Seems like a few holds have broken on this since it was put in the guides.
Seems like the middle few moves might be v4 now depending on your style... or maybe it's just how I felt at the end of the day haha
(just after the large flakes on the right side of the boulder, I set my right hand in a sloping horizontal crack, and lunge leftward towards flat sloper adjacent to the right facing sidepull)


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Right Fork : Boy Size (Provo Area) : Eurosize (V6)
By: Emerson Takahashi When: Oct 19, 2013

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Comments: a.k.a. Boy Size Right, and listed as v4 in the Utah Bouldering guide book.

throwing to the lip seems a bit harder for short people as the higher foot is much worse.
It's short, but you didn't walk up to Boy Size to climb any highballs anyways, right? ;)


Location: UT : Triassic
By: Emerson Takahashi When: Sep 28, 2013

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Comments: No noticeable flood damage to Triassic anymore. The roads had flooded over 2 weeks ago, but since then everything looks back to normal, and road damage has been repairs.

We've been able to get to the main area just fine with our little Honda Civic...


Location: UT : Triassic : Golden Ladle : West Cat Daddy : 1. Low Road (V3)
By: Emerson Takahashi When: Sep 27, 2013

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Comments: since this rock is not really all that tall to begin with, I'm not sure how low this low traverse is supposed to go.
Does this route climb beneath the bulge on the left side? Or does this route use the sloper holds on top of the bulge?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : Gate Boulders : ... : Barfly (V8)
By: Emerson Takahashi When: Sep 23, 2013

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Comments: @colin rickert-

This problem is well worth doing. The sit start goes at v8/9 and the stand start goes at v5.

And as far as giant dongs go- Kevin probably shouldn't be giving out any beta for problems he hasn't done.


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