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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Sundogs (5.12a/b)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Apr 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Monomaniac is correct. The bolts on this one need some love, especially some of the ancient hangers.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Mural Wall : Motif (5.12a)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Apr 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I enjoyed this more than Monet and The Mural. Good clipping holds/stances and great crux sequences. Note that I do no like monos, which exist on Monet and The Mural but not Motif.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Visor : Rubberneck (5.12b)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Feb 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe that this route is manufactured. The obviously manufactured hold to the left of the last bolt can be skipped, which makes the route slightly more difficult. I cannot tell if one of the lower holds has been enhanced, but due to all the other manufactured holds on this wall I would think so.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Curve of Binding Energy (5.12a/b)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Feb 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did not notice the drilled holds at the bottom the many years ago that I first did the route. One is in a natural foot placement, but I don't use the others. I think the one can be avoided with the foot, but it is lame that it exists at all.
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Location: MO : Pinnacles Youth Park
By: Elijah Flenner When: Dec 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just to be clear, rock climbing is prohibited in this park. Even if it was allowed, it would not be a good idea since the rock is brittle.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : Red Wall : Lenora (5.11c)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Dec 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first roof is a little tricky, and the easiest sequence on the second pitch is hard to read. Did it as one pitch, and the rope drag was a real drag going to the top anchor.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : Red Wall : Red Hot Space Suit (5.12b)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Dec 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A really great line. Technical and interesting almost the whole way. Get on it.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Carter Lake : Skunk Rub Boulder : Daily Chuck Dose (V8)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Nov 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The start is considerably easier, which makes the problem easier and, in my opinion, better. I had this thing wired before the hold broke, so I don't really know what the new rating should be.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Arthur's Rock : Childbirth (Area at Arthur'... : Tears of a Clown (5.12c/d)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Nov 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: SWEET! Thanks, Ben.
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Location: MO : Capen Park : The Open Book (5.10+)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Oct 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice lead Joe. I hear the top is MUCH more polished than it was 20 years ago; when I lead it. I am curious what cam you used in the pocket above the roof. Might be good information for future ascents, and I cannot possibly imagine what would fit well.
Cheers,
Elijah
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Location: MO : Providence : Gold Nugget (5.12b/c)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Oct 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: After reading the description of the route and all the beta, I feel like adding a little beta myself. Thus, if you don't want beta, stop reading.
At no point did I ever heal hook the "gold nugget". The middle of three pockets by the chains has a huge hold on the left hand side. From there you can put a right foot on top of the gold nugget and a left foot right above the roof for a poor stem. If you follow the small right angling dihedral like feature, there is a two finger hold on top which pr... more >>
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Location: MO : Providence : Gold Nugget (5.12b/c)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Oct 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good movement. Some loose rock, and very large whip potential at the cruxes. Could use some cleaning and rethinking of the bolt placements. Another star if both these things happen. If 5.12 is hard, top rope it first; I am happy I did.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Conspiracy Crag : Frankenfood (5.11c)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Oct 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Both pitches can easily be done as one pitch albeit with some rope drag. The first pitch takes some stars away from the second, which is pretty good.
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Wall of Denial : Save The Best For Last (5.11)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Aug 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We went to climb this route on August 5th 2012 and there was a chalk skull and crossbones at the base and sticks in the first bolt. We took this as a sign and stayed off it. Is there anything dangerous about this route? Did the rockfall damage something?
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : The Ice Plant : Fun Stripe (5.11+)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Aug 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hard onsight, and might be an easier 12a.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Powell Peak : Northeast Ridge II, Class 4 (4th R)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Jul 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great. I went from Powell to Thatchtop, which makes for lots of downclimbing. Probably easier in the other direction. Might be able to keep it at fourth class if one finds the easiest path, but do not expect to do that the first time.
If using a rope, I cannot imagine not being able to get in lots of gear. Cracks everywhere.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Piano Ridge : Unknown Slab (V2+)
By: Elijah Flenner When: May 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Has been climbed many times, and there are many different variations. Used to climb on that a bunch in the early 2000s. Don't know of any names.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : Mineshaft Wall : Armor Plated (5.11c)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Apr 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The dyno move seemed pretty contrived to me. You have to move away from the obvious crack that you have been following and almost move onto Monstrosity. Also, don't blow the mantel onto the ledge after the "dyno" crux; it would be nasty. Bottom is fun, but I enjoy the route more by finishing on the anchors to the right and avoiding the crux all together. Your experience my be different.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Citadel : Roll the Bones (5.12-)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Mar 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is too bad that the lower part is so loose, since the upper part is very good. Difficult to rate since the route still seems to be evolving, and the climb may always be loose. Hopefully the holds at the crux stick around, but I doubt it. We broke several at the bottom section, but nothing critical. Difficult to climb it clean when holds keep breaking.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Carter Lake : Extension Boulder : Sunshine (V6)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Feb 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Germsause, as I understand the line, you don't use anything on the arete. From the two very small crimps, go left to a triangle-shaped hold, then go straight up and right to the end of Pocket Pussy. I have never tried to use the arete, so your line might be harder, easier, better, or worse. Might have to give it a try next time I am out there.
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Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : South Idaho's : Dig Dug (V4)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Feb 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This problem is already in the database.
Dig Dug
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Carter Lake : Fromunda Boulder : Fromunda (V6)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Jan 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: As I understand it, the V6 starts on the "west" side of the boulder and climbs from under the boulder to the topout shown in the picture. Hard in my humble opinion. Have never done it, so will not comment on the true grade.
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Location: MO : Andromeda Sprain : Walkdown Area : The Slab (5.7+)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Dec 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Then what kind of rock is it?
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : RMNP Bouldering Areas : Chaos Canyon Bouldering : ... : Revenge (V6-)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Aug 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This problem is contrived to stay at around V6. There is a huge crack to the right, which has become the standard start. Above where the crack ends is a huge right hand slot, which is not considered "on". Using this slot knocks a couple of V grades off the problem (probably V4), and allows one to avoid the best moves on the problem. For full value, don't use the large crack on the right either.
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Location: MO : Capen Park Bouldering : Levitation (V6)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Aug 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The starting flake to this problem fell off, so it no longer exists.
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