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So hungry.


Member Since: Jul 17, 2008
Last Visit: Sep 22, 2014
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Point Rank: # 3,459
Total Points: 131
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has EldoFiend been climbing?










Contributions


All 240 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 14 | Page Improvements | Comments 41 | Posts 24 | Stars 137 | Ratings 22
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Guernsey State Park : Area 5: Red and White Grot... : The Red Clove Wall : Shelf Life (5.12a)
By: EldoFiend When: Feb 10, 2013

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Comments: How is a 50 foot sport route with 8 bolts X rated?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : The Piano (5.10d)
By: EldoFiend When: Jan 25, 2013

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Comments: Devin, wasn't this "White Cracker Killer?"


Location: IA : Ozark Wildlife Area : Hoot Bluff : Gravity Amp (5.12a)
By: EldoFiend When: Nov 12, 2012

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Comments: What chains? As of two weeks ago gravity amp had camoed bolts with fixed biners. I agree that the chains on some of the other routes are an eyesore, but those hooks are fine, you could literally hang a semi filled with inbred donkeys off one of those.


Location: IA : Indian Bluffs : Boneless Chicken Ranch : Between the Sheets (5.11a)
By: EldoFiend When: Aug 20, 2012

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Comments: 5.9 to a short crux at the 4th bolt to some fun steep climbing. Second bolt line to the right of the spearhead.


Location: IA : Indian Bluffs : Boulevard Wall : El Diablo (5.12b)
By: EldoFiend When: Aug 20, 2012

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Comments: Steep climbing on mostly good pockets down low to an interesting crux at the top. Best of the three steep routes at the boulevard wall.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo
By: EldoFiend When: Jun 5, 2012

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Comments: See the post by Ben Boykin just a few comments above yours.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : I'd Rather Be In Philadelph... (5.12)
By: EldoFiend When: Aug 8, 2010

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Comments: Today I replaced the mess of webbing at the anchor with chain, and replaced a hanger on one of the bolts (it didn't have a hanger at all). However, I neglected to bring a wrench with me, so if someone would be so kind as to take one up and really tighten the right most bolt that would be great.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Hypertension : Hypertension (5.12)
By: EldoFiend When: Jul 31, 2010

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Comments: I would bring some small cams (blue through red Aliens) in addition to stoppers for the top section.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : Climbs of Passion Exit (5.11c)
By: EldoFiend When: Jul 27, 2010

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Comments: Although not very sustained, the crux moves on this climb feel harder to me than the crux moves on Max Factor, Eagle Brand, Bordwalk, or 4th of July Crack. And be careful lowering off of the anchors - I used up every foot of a 60m rope.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Edwards' Crack (5.7) : Photo
By: EldoFiend When: Jul 11, 2010

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Comments: Canadian POS.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Lower Progressive (5.9+)
By: EldoFiend When: Jul 5, 2010

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Comments: No way you could place any C3s on this climb. I think you mean C4s.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Heartbreak Hotel : Heartbreak June (5.11+ PG13)
By: EldoFiend When: Jul 1, 2010

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Comments: More like 10+


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Juniper Wall : Amelie (5.12a)
By: EldoFiend When: Jun 24, 2010

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Comments: Hey, in Wyoming 30 feet could net you two new routes. And speaking of Wyoming, Flare Thee Well is 11-. You need to get out of the land of inflated grades, Julian. Come back to the light.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : The Final Cut (5.12d)
By: EldoFiend When: Jun 9, 2010

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Comments: Sorry if I have caused any confusion, and thanks for the info, jammer.
I never claimed that Decaria didn't red point the route, I only said that he had just tr'd it when Josh established the line.

As for the magazine articles you are mostly right; however, Helke's article was in Urban Climber, not Climbing, correct? And Josh did a LOT more route development at Vedauwoo than Segal & Decaria.

BTW, how are you doing, Justin? I haven't seen you in months.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : The Final Cut (5.12d)
By: EldoFiend When: Jun 8, 2010

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Comments: "First ascent climbed with natural gear placements in the crack"

Sounds to me like Josh got the FA, on gear, and then decided to bolt it. If Decaria had actually done the FA, then it would have been his prerogative to bolt it or not; however, he never did anything more than toprope it until after it had been established, then bitched about it being bolted in Climbing magazine.

And why are you calling Helke a glory hog? Please refer me to the issue where Climbin... more >>


Location: Jasmine Kall : Climbing! :) : Photo
By: EldoFiend When: May 14, 2010

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Comments: wow, I should try brushing my hair sometime then.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome
By: EldoFiend When: Apr 28, 2010

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Comments: A permit is now required to hike up half dome via the cables route on weekends. This does not apply to climbers hiking down the cables after climbing half dome.

HD Permits


Location: Jasmine Kall : Climbing! :) : Photo
By: EldoFiend When: Apr 26, 2010

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Comments: Are you a real person? This looks a bit too much like a Ralph Lauren ad.


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : ... : Loisl (5.11c)
By: EldoFiend When: Apr 12, 2010

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Comments: Greasy.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : French Cattle Ranch : The Grasshopper Wall : Esplanada (5.12d)
By: EldoFiend When: Apr 12, 2010

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Comments: One of the best sport routes I have ever been on. It is pretty dang hard though.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : French Cattle Ranch : Big Kahuna Pillar : The Eldorado Coral Club (5.10+)
By: EldoFiend When: Apr 12, 2010

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Comments: This was our favorite warm up/cool down route at the FCR. Awesome moderate, but continous climbing. There is some crappy rock in places, and it hasn't yet cleaned up very well so be careful. But still lots of fun.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : World Domination : Captain Insano (5.11d)
By: EldoFiend When: Apr 12, 2010

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Comments: The end is a bit contrived in my opinion. Its 100 feet of jugs to one crimp from which you clip the chains. A good route, but there are not 8 clips of overhanging jugs as Huey writes.


Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Central (Blooming Rose, Cla... : Claim Jumper (5.10c)
By: EldoFiend When: Apr 12, 2010

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Comments: A friend of mine (ahem, WBJ) whipped on this and racked his nuts on the rope. I very nearly did the same thing when I fell at the second bolt. Be carful.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Arch Rock : Midterm (5.10b)
By: EldoFiend When: Apr 12, 2010

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Comments: You could certainly place a BD 5 and 6 once you get into the chimney. The squeeze isn't particularly hard, but running out the top half of the climb on slightly slick rock is a touch exciting.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Ghost Dance (5.11)
By: EldoFiend When: Apr 12, 2010

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Comments: This route now has a bolt anchor. Be careful lowering though, as it is right around 30m long.


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