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Member Since: Apr 5, 2012
Last Visit: Jun 2, 2014
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has El scorpion been climbing?










Contributions


All 10 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvments | Comments 4 | Posts 4 | Stars 1 | Ratings 1

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Aurora (5.13a)
By: El scorpion When: Oct 29, 2012

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Comments: Here's the deal: Aurora is a really fun route, not chossy. As with most 13s in the ORG it has some glue and/or enhanced holds. But it climbs great - go do it, you'll have a blast whipping off at the top. Kinda ridiculous for anyone to harsh on Aurora while giving Fight Club the big thumbs up. Both are fun steep climbs. Aurora is 13A for the ORG if you actually redpoint it, a lot of people who downgrade it are still in "1 hang" mode. Oh and the headwall to the right now sports a natural 13B calle... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney / Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : Whitney Portal Buttress : Gangway (5.12a)
By: El scorpion When: Oct 29, 2012

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Comments: You can rap from the top of Gangway P3 with 1 70 or 80 M- do a short rap left (looking down) to Trivial pursuit chains then 2nd rap back right to a huge ledge with bushes- walk down this to P1 anchor of Gangway or all the way to Tanager anchor.

Do Tanager to start this climb (.3-#1 cams) then walk up ledge to P1 anchor of Gangway. Leave everything smaller than a .75 cam at this belay. #1, #2, #3, #4 for Gangway - save 1 of each for the top after the wide section. ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Mark of Art (5.10d)
By: El scorpion When: Oct 1, 2012

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Comments: Huge flexing block near top of route. As you near the top of the vertical stretch of the corner, the flake turns into a block -it flexed 1" on me and a bunch of dirt came out. The block is 7-10' tall, 2' wide and 2'-thick and would kill climber/belayer etc. Tread very carefully. Even though the 200' pitch is one of the very best in the entire valley, I would not test that block again.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Cloud Tower (5.12-)
By: El scorpion When: Apr 5, 2012

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Comments: Could you rap the route with a single 80M?


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Eastside aid practice?Northern CaliforniaEl scorpionNov 26, 2013
re: Rifle Fire Pre-evacuations.ColoradoEl scorpionJun 18, 2013
re: Cloud Tower and 80M ropeNevadaEl scorpionNov 12, 2012
Cloud Tower and 80M ropeNevadaEl scorpionNov 8, 2012

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Aurora 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Great Wall of China

Contributed Ratings

Name Established Rating Suggested Rating Location

Aurora

5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Great Wall of China