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Member Since: Feb 3, 2012
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 289 | Routes 8 | Areas | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 4 | Posts 104 | Stars 157 | Ratings 12

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : High Sierra : Charlotte Dome : South Face (5.8)
By: Edward_ When: Jul 13, 2015

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Comments: A few thoughts...

- Did not bring a #4, and there was no real place I really felt I needed it. I'm sure smaller gear would have helped.

- Only had one #3, I felt that was sufficient. I brought two #2, but could have got away with one.

- Belays for the first 4 pitchs aren't great, but it was easy enough that I think it makes sense to simul to the 4th belay.

- Approach from Bubbs Creek, lots of cairn stones that take you no where. I would say follow the creek as much as p... more >>


Location: International : Europe : Greece : Meteora : Heiliger Geist : Traumpfeiler (Pillar of Dre... (5.9)
By: Edward_ When: Jun 24, 2014

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Comments: Some gear beta:
- We were able to do the decent rap's with a single 70m.
- For gear, 1 yellow linked cam, 6 QD's and 6 trad draws would be useful. I did not see any knobs you could sling, so I wouldn't bring long slings for slinging knobs.
- I don't have a ton of experience with sparsly bolted climbs so I was a bit worried about looking for bolts - but don't worry, while you probably never see you next bolt, just take the line of least resistance and eventually you'll see a bolt.

Neat route... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : La Cosita, Right (5.10a)
By: Edward_ When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: Agreed with YosemiteSam, if you sink in the finger locks rather then lieback, it would be a lot more secure. My foot blew once or twice but the locks were super bomber.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Mr. Natural (5.10+)
By: Edward_ When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: This route is not 110 ft. Glad I had a 2nd rope.


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