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Unaweep


Member Since: Nov 20, 2007
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
Contact Edward Medina


Point Rank: # 889
Total Points: 748
Last Year: 187
Last 30 Days: 96
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Edward Medina been climbing?










Contributions


All 304 | Routes 35 | Areas 13 | Photos 23 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 85 | Posts 70 | Stars 62 | Ratings 15
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Naturita and Paradox Valley : Atomic Energy Crag : Rancho Deluxe (5.10)
By: Edward Medina When: Feb 21, 2015

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Comments: Best route (so far) on this wall. I don't think there is a single move of .10a climbing on here, but there also isn't any move easier than 5.9. Very continuous difficulty.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Mother's Buttress : ... : Dolphin Girl (5.8)
By: Edward Medina When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: I thought the right hand start was pretty spicy. I had a marginal, #3 rigid Friend in a shallow horizontal that would not have kept me off the deck. I think the left hand start is the way to go on this one. Great hand jams up high!


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Mother's Buttress : ... : Monk Sandals (5.9)
By: Edward Medina When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: We climbed a variation to this climb today. After clipping the second bolt, head up and right into the deep cleft. Finishes at the same anchors. Maintains 5.9 difficulty.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : West Side Boulders : Cave Boulder : Unknown V1 (V1)
By: Edward Medina When: Dec 17, 2014

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Comments: Can anyone confirm that this is the problem called 'The Ladder'?


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Watchtower : The Watchtower Corner (5.9-)
By: Edward Medina When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: Walk a #6 Camalot through the crux slot. Did not find rap rings in notch belay. Easy walkoff.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Watchtower : West Face AKA Cold Feelings (5.7 R)
By: Edward Medina When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: Climbed this today lured in by the moderate appearance of the first pitch. Combined pitches 1 and 2 with a 60m. Stepped up and right rather than traversing left from belay bolt atop pitch two following a series of flakes to just below the mini roof visible in beta photo directly above marked bolt. We stepped left around roof. Airy and exposed with good gear after most of the unnerving high-steps. Maintains 5.7R rating.


Location: NC : Pilot Mountain : Amphitheater : Blind Prophet (5.12b/c PG13)
By: Edward Medina When: May 28, 2014

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Comments: Were these put in with the permission of the park? If not this is one of those things that could harm climber relations.


Location: NC : Pilot Mountain : Amphitheater : Blind Prophet (5.12b/c PG13)
By: Edward Medina When: May 26, 2014

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Comments: How does the permadraw make it safer? Are the bolts poorly positioned?


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : The Wall of Solitude : Mohito (5.8+)
By: Edward Medina When: Mar 2, 2014

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Comments: Definitely worth the long walk in. As the line gradually steepens the fist jams and jugs get better and better.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Amphitheater : The Mummy (5.5 PG13)
By: Edward Medina When: Feb 13, 2014

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Comments: Jeff,
Actually leaving the safety field blank is interpreted as the 'safest' rating.


Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Rising Sun Wall : Ask Mr. Science (5.10-)
By: Edward Medina When: Dec 7, 2013

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Comments: Anchor bolts and top two protection bolts were replaced 12/7/2013.


Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Red Wall : The Gimp (5.10c)
By: Edward Medina When: Dec 7, 2013

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Comments: Replaced bolts three and four with stainless steel glue-ins 12/7/2013.


Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Red Wall : Master Beta (5.10c)
By: Edward Medina When: Dec 7, 2013

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Comments: All protection bolts replaced 12/7/2013. The existing bolt holes were cleaned and reconfigured to accept stainless steel glue-in bolts.


Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Red Wall : TKO (5.12a)
By: Edward Medina When: Nov 22, 2013

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Comments: Top anchor replaced with stainless steel glue-ins. 11/23/13


Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Resurgence Walls : New Policy Wall : New Policy (5.10)
By: Edward Medina When: Nov 22, 2013

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Comments: The initial replacement of the top anchor has been corrected. The new (new) anchor was moved back to its original site. Stainless steel glue-ins were used.


Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Red Wall : Scramble My Feedback (5.10a)
By: Edward Medina When: Nov 22, 2013

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Comments: The protection bolt on this route was replaced 11/23/2013. Old bolt hole was re-used. Stainless steel glue-in protects the crux now.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Wall : Fair-Weather Friend (5.7)
By: Edward Medina When: Nov 21, 2013

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Comments: Historical note - Some debate ensued upon this route's completion due to issues of style. Those can be viewed here: mountainproject.com/v/fair-wea...
This route is a significant variation to the established standard for the Cereal Wall in that it was bolted on rappel rather than on lead.


Location: NC : Cedar Rock
By: Edward Medina When: Nov 7, 2013

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Comments: No set rules. This is, with some exceptions, a ground-up crag in a wilderness setting. Bolts in close proximity to naturally protectable features are generally frowned upon. Stainless steel hardware only please. The Main Wall has been picked over pretty closely over the past 30 years, probably not too much opportunity for new routes there that wouldn't be considered a squeeze job.


Location: NC : Cooks Wall : Warfare area (Upper Cook...
By: Edward Medina When: Oct 31, 2013

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Comments: Let me know when you come Mr. Brown. I'd love a guided tour.


Location: NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face : Entrance Crack (5.4 R)
By: Edward Medina When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: This one can feel tough for the grade Russ. I remember trying to cram myself into the crack the first time I did this route. But once you get your slab head on right the climbing begins to feel more mellow. Fortunately no fatalities on this route in the 50 years since it was first put up.


Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Car Wall : Burn Signals (5.10)
By: Edward Medina When: Sep 14, 2013

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Comments: I was at the base of the Car Wall recently and eyeballed this line again in light of the recent comments here. I agree with Wade that the first bold should be moved up at least two feet. This puts it in stick clip range for the sportys, while those opting for a more ground up effort can plug gear to protect moves off the ground.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Fruit Loops (5.7+)
By: Edward Medina When: Jul 8, 2013

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Comments: Might be hard for a 5.11 trad leader to notice the nuanced difference between 5.7 and 5.7+, but this climb is definitely the latter. Depending on conditions it can even feel stout for 5.7+. This has been the consensus grading on the route since the second edition Kelley Guide came out in the early 90s.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Linville River Crag
By: Edward Medina When: Jun 11, 2013

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Comments: as the crow flies, yes. But you would have to drive a good bit to get from the West side of the gorge over to the crags on the East side. Probably just under an hour driving to get from Conley Cove Trailhead to Table Rock parking lot.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Wall : Angell Falls (5.10) : Photo
By: Edward Medina When: May 1, 2013

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Comments: Foreshortening in full effect. The headwall pitch is short, but it ain't THAT short.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Wall : Kenosis (5.10+)
By: Edward Medina When: May 1, 2013

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Comments: The concept of Kenosis predates christian theology. It is, in essence, the abandonment of self. Leaving onseself open to experience the divine, whatever form that may take. So all you heathens feel free to hop on this one.


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