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The FA of Full Scholarship


Member Since: Nov 20, 2007
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Edward Medina


Point Rank: # 980
Total Points: 597
Last Year: 167
Last 30 Days: 10
3 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Edward Medina been climbing?










Contributions


All (249) | Routes (31) | Areas (8) | Photos (18) | Comments (77) | Posts (51) | Stars (53) | Ratings (11)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : The Wall of Solitude : Mohito (5.8+)
By: Edward Medina When: Mar 2, 2014

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Comments: Definitely worth the long walk in. As the line gradually steepens the fist jams and jugs get better and better.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Amphitheater : The Mummy (5.5 PG13)
By: Edward Medina When: Feb 13, 2014

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Comments: Jeff,
Actually leaving the safety field blank is interpreted as the 'safest' rating.


Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Rising Sun Wall : Ask Mr. Science (5.10-)
By: Edward Medina When: Dec 7, 2013

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Comments: Anchor bolts and top two protection bolts were replaced 12/7/2013.


Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Red Wall : The Gimp (5.10c)
By: Edward Medina When: Dec 7, 2013

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Comments: Replaced bolts three and four with stainless steel glue-ins 12/7/2013.


Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Red Wall : Master Beta (5.10c)
By: Edward Medina When: Dec 7, 2013

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Comments: All protection bolts replaced 12/7/2013. The existing bolt holes were cleaned and reconfigured to accept stainless steel glue-in bolts.


Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Red Wall : TKO (5.12a)
By: Edward Medina When: Nov 22, 2013

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Comments: Top anchor replaced with stainless steel glue-ins. 11/23/13


Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Resurgence Walls : New Policy Wall : New Policy (5.10)
By: Edward Medina When: Nov 22, 2013

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Comments: The initial replacement of the top anchor has been corrected. The new (new) anchor was moved back to its original site. Stainless steel glue-ins were used.


Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Red Wall : Scramble My Feedback (5.10a)
By: Edward Medina When: Nov 22, 2013

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Comments: The protection bolt on this route was replaced 11/23/2013. Old bolt hole was re-used. Stainless steel glue-in protects the crux now.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Wall : Fair-Weather Friend (5.7)
By: Edward Medina When: Nov 21, 2013

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Comments: Historical note - Some debate ensued upon this route's completion due to issues of style. Those can be viewed here: www.mountainproject.com/v/fair-weather-friend/108450571
This route is a significant variation to the established standard for the Cereal Wall in that it was bolted on rappel rather than on lead.


Location: NC : Cedar Rock
By: Edward Medina When: Nov 7, 2013

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Comments: No set rules. This is, with some exceptions, a ground-up crag in a wilderness setting. Bolts in close proximity to naturally protectable features are generally frowned upon. Stainless steel hardware only please. The Main Wall has been picked over pretty closely over the past 30 years, probably not too much opportunity for new routes there that wouldn't be considered a squeeze job.


Location: NC : Cooks Wall : Warfare Area
By: Edward Medina When: Oct 31, 2013

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Comments: Let me know when you come Mr. Brown. I'd love a guided tour.


Location: NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face : Entrance Crack (5.4 R)
By: Edward Medina When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: This one can feel tough for the grade Russ. I remember trying to cram myself into the crack the first time I did this route. But once you get your slab head on right the climbing begins to feel more mellow. Fortunately no fatalities on this route in the 50 years since it was first put up.


Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Car Wall : Burn Signals (5.10)
By: Edward Medina When: Sep 14, 2013

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Comments: I was at the base of the Car Wall recently and eyeballed this line again in light of the recent comments here. I agree with Wade that the first bold should be moved up at least two feet. This puts it in stick clip range for the sportys, while those opting for a more ground up effort can plug gear to protect moves off the ground.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Fruit Loops (5.7+)
By: Edward Medina When: Jul 8, 2013

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Comments: Might be hard for a 5.11 trad leader to notice the nuanced difference between 5.7 and 5.7+, but this climb is definitely the latter. Depending on conditions it can even feel stout for 5.7+. This has been the consensus grading on the route since the second edition Kelley Guide came out in the early 90s.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Linville River Crag
By: Edward Medina When: Jun 11, 2013

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Comments: as the crow flies, yes. But you would have to drive a good bit to get from the West side of the gorge over to the crags on the East side. Probably just under an hour driving to get from Conley Cove Trailhead to Table Rock parking lot.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Wall : Angell Falls (5.10) : Photo
By: Edward Medina When: May 1, 2013

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Comments: Foreshortening in full effect. The headwall pitch is short, but it ain't THAT short.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Wall : Kenosis (5.10+)
By: Edward Medina When: May 1, 2013

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Comments: The concept of Kenosis predates christian theology. It is, in essence, the abandonment of self. Leaving onseself open to experience the divine, whatever form that may take. So all you heathens feel free to hop on this one.


Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Red Wall : The Gimp (5.10c)
By: Edward Medina When: Apr 7, 2013

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Comments: This route got a facelift. New hardware from the ASCA and rebolting by Tim Fisher.


Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : David's Castle Wall : Pink Flamingo (5.11a)
By: Edward Medina When: Apr 7, 2013

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Comments: Top anchors have been replaced. Thanks to Tim Fisher and the ASCA.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Built to Tilt (5.10a)
By: Edward Medina When: Mar 30, 2013

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Comments: You can optionally build a belay on the platform just below the crux. Very solid gear here that allows your belayer to keep you nice and snug while you commit to the airy moves 200' off the deck. I found a decent green alien in a shallow pod about a foot past the keyholed nut placement.


Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : David's Castle Wall : What Else Is There To Do? (5.7+)
By: Edward Medina When: Mar 12, 2013

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Comments: Climbed the direct start this weekend. First 15 feet felt more like 5.9 to me. Protects very well though.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Hanging Chain : Sly Corner (Naysayer) (5.11) : Photo
By: Edward Medina When: Feb 17, 2013

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Comments: Toproped this today and placed a few pieces in the crux to test for bomb-proofness. My impression of the .75 Camalot is that the two outermost lobes are not as well engaged in the crack as the two inner lobes. A better fit for the pod pictured is a red alien.


Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Red Wall : Opinionated (5.9)
By: Edward Medina When: Feb 12, 2013

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Comments: The runout between bolts 2 and 3 can be mitigated with a yellow C3 placement in the flaring horizontal at a good stance. A fall while making the move to clip the third bolt would place you in groundfall territory. This has been the site of more than one bone-breaking fall. I agree with Chris, climbing in the dihedral to the right of the first two bolts bumps this up into 5.10 territory. To keep it 5.9 climb the large flake to the left of the first two bolts.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Wall : Fair-Weather Friend (5.7) : Photo
By: Edward Medina When: Feb 3, 2013

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Comments: There is a bolt in the pic but no drill. How is this the first ascent?


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Petrified Frog (5.11+)
By: Edward Medina When: Jan 25, 2013

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Comments: Rumor has it that Matt (Smith?) freed the hard moves getting into the slot a few years ago. He approached the crux by first climbing Fruit Loops however. Sean Cobourn thought there was a good independent climb that could incorporate the crux moves through the roof slot while adding a whole new chimney start. We drilled the two bolts on lead, but were unable to link the entire climb. Wondering who got the official FFA?


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