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Member Since: Jul 18, 2001
Last Visit: Jun 1, 2007
Contact Edward Jenner


Point Rank: # 2,869
Total Points: 177
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Edward Jenner been climbing?










Contributions


All 156 | Routes 9 | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvements | Comments 77 | Posts | Stars 40 | Ratings 28
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: Edward Jenner When: Jun 1, 2007

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Comments: Just a note that the new guidebook does not have some of these lines correctly identified in the ‘No Pashion For Fashion’ area.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Lower Right Ski Track (5.10)
By: Edward Jenner When: Nov 1, 2006

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Comments: I thought this was way, way easier then clean and jerk - a couple of moves on good solid holds comapred to something much more continuous and with harder moves.

I think Joe was having an 'off' moment.

EDIT: That exit shown in the picture titled 'sooo fun' was fantastic, airy and just made me smile. Soooooo gooood.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - East Side : Effigy Too (5.10a/b)
By: Edward Jenner When: Nov 1, 2006

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Comments: Good route, definitley worth doing and not even close to 10b - jugs and decent feet means any 10 climber will breeze throught the lower section.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : IRS Wall : Tax Man (5.10a)
By: Edward Jenner When: Nov 1, 2006

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Comments: I agree this is a stiff 10a - especially compared with other 10a's in the area.

Slipped off leading this, only to slip of again on the same move on TR. Feet seem to be the key.

Super fun climbing.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Prepackaged (5.10a)
By: Edward Jenner When: Nov 1, 2006

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Comments: Good route to do even if not comfortable at 10's - safe and relatively easy.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Sentinel : The Sentinel - East Face : Ball Bearing (5.10a)
By: Edward Jenner When: Nov 1, 2006

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Comments: Do both pitches, or as one pitch (double ropes helpful).

Definitely on of Josh's easy 10a's - more like 8+ by Eldo standards, but very fun.

Also starting in the left crack (as in the photo above), rather than the one marked in the guidebook seems like the nicest way to go.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Natty Dread (5.11b)
By: Edward Jenner When: Oct 16, 2006

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Comments: In addition to the slight detour to the right of the roof (which does seem like the obvious line), I also had to detour around the third bolt. It's well chalked, but it's kind of strange.

Excellent route, might be a bit easy for 11b? The holds are big, but the continuous nature and angle are what really make this route worth getting on.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Hair City (5.9+ R)
By: Edward Jenner When: Aug 9, 2006

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Comments: Finally climbed this, great route. Ac on Sep15 2003 comment nails the pro/danger issue.

I now understand what 'safe IF you are comfortable at the grade' means.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Blind Faith (5.10a)
By: Edward Jenner When: Aug 9, 2006

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Comments: Holly **** Stephanie! Maybe I was a bit tired from doing (leading) both Hair City and West Buttress, but having done quite a number of low 10s in Eldo, P1 crux completely shut me down, and I had to aid it (and yes, I can climb crack, no I'm not a 5.12, or even 11+ sport climber). P2 is straightforward 9, even pumped. I think there is a 'bad' way or trying to do the P2 crux, though my partner inexplicably fell multiple times seconding.

Discussions on route difficulty never cease to amaze me. ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Mesca-Line (5.7)
By: Edward Jenner When: Apr 17, 2005

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Comments: I hadn't climbed this for quite some time and had never lead it and perhaps it was because I was rusty, but this felt hard for a 7. After doing this I lead the first pitch of Pony Express and then Sister Morphine and felt much more solid on both of these. Perhaps I was just warmed up, and/or perhaps they are very easy 9's., but still. I thought there were at leats 2, maybe 3 crux's, all requiring some attention.

Or perhaps this is just another 3-star 7 in Eldo, and thus feels stiff for a 7.... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Sister Morphine (5.9)
By: Edward Jenner When: Apr 17, 2005

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Comments: 1-2 starts, devinitely worth doing - I had a lot of fun and would definitely consider this for a warmup in the area, perhaps over Mesca Line which I find somewhat tricky for a 7.

The climbing is easy and postitive as you go higher, but gear is perhaps non-trivial for a budding 8 leader (who should be able to cope with this no problem) with soe questionable rock (nothing unusual for Eldo).




Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: Edward Jenner When: Apr 15, 2005

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Comments: Damn, I couldn't disagree more. The direct start is definitely a lot harder and scarier than the travese in.Pro is there, but much pumpier to place than you might expect from the ground.

The piton latter is quite straightforward, perhaps a bit ballancey - last time I did it the wind was blowing and that made it a bit more interesting.

The top is 10a-10c - flew off it last time - nice airy fall onto the pin (I had quite a bit of slack out), highly recommended lob.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Handcracker Direct (5.10a)
By: Edward Jenner When: Apr 14, 2005

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Comments: And I just thought P1 was the most sandbagged 5.8 I'd ever climbed. I definitely got a bit of a surprise when I reached the difficult section.

It's about the same level as the upper pitch though, so no real problems if you are a 5.10 climber, although my partner did fall on toprope! He probably wasn't expecting it either, since I didn't mention anything, but did make sure I wasn't belaying directly off my harness (as I do when I'm fairly confident my second won't fall).


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Lotta Balls (5.8)
By: Edward Jenner When: Mar 29, 2005

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Comments: Climbing the 'balls' certainly made the route worthwhile. I was giggling through that section.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Frogland (5.8)
By: Edward Jenner When: Mar 29, 2005

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Comments: My first RR route. At the time I thought it was more like 7, but maybe 8 compared to other RR 8's

In any case a lot of fun. We traversed at lot lower on Pitch 4 than shown in the picture - to the base of the crack on the left and it seemed very reasonable.

The rap bolts had been removed from the hangers on all pitches.




Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Yellow Brick Road (5.10b)
By: Edward Jenner When: Mar 29, 2005

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Comments: My first (and only) route on this wall, and it was super fun. Maybe less stars compared to others - I wouldn't know.

The third pitch, although not hard, is long. I found that I was shaking out my legs rather than my arms, and after pulling through the slightly harder moves that mark the crux I was ready to get to the anchors. None of the other pitches are nearly as sustained, so after this pitch, the next one will seem short and quite easy.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Mural Wall : John Cruiser Meloncrimp (5.10b)
By: Edward Jenner When: Mar 13, 2005

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Comments: With the crux down low where there are plenty of bolts, steep large holds make this one to come back to. Just plain fun! It will be a cruse if you are solid at the grade - no 'tricks' needed.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Mural Wall : Mother of Invention (5.10c)
By: Edward Jenner When: Mar 13, 2005

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Comments: Very nice, fun route. Continuous, steep and the 'ledges' don't offer full rests. 10c seemed about right compared to John Cruser. I thought the bolt placements were good too.

This and John Curser are worth the hike alone, especially if you are on the way to Menses to climb 10's.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : The Bulge (5.7 R)
By: Edward Jenner When: Oct 24, 2004

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Comments: After doing the direct finish we wondered if we were on route or not. Looks like we were, but I have to say it was somewhat disapointing. Short, easy jugs. I guess you could jam fingers in it if you really wanted to. Quite fun, I guess, but don't expect much.

Of course it took us 10-15 mins to find the way down to the E slabs trail.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Osiris (5.7)
By: Edward Jenner When: Aug 8, 2004

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Comments: Not really liking off-width chimney-ish thinks, I was glad not to lead the first pitch and though it was the hardest on the route. The second is also a bit stout (didn't lead that either) and the third and fourth I thought were quite reasonable. Nothing too funky, good gear, and just when you think it's going to be hard, the holds appear.

Great route, The first pitch was the most fun I've had in a wide crack. I think the people saying this is a pile are just trying to keep the crowds off i... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Conehead (5.11b)
By: Edward Jenner When: Jul 15, 2004

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Comments: I never climbed it previously, but the line seems fairly obvious now. Up, then traverse right a few feet, as Darren indicates, then follow the 'crack'. I put crack in quotes, because although the feature is crack-like, I certainly wouldn't want to be placing gear in it, and it is somewhat discontinuous. The guide also says 11a. In any case quite fun and a lot steeper than it looks from the ground. Also there are very good anchors at the top now.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Mainliner (5.9)
By: Edward Jenner When: Jul 11, 2004

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Comments: WARNING: Do not attempt this route unless you are prepared for serious fun!

I agree it's not all that sustained, but the easier bits are still fairly steep but just juggy. There are no bad or waste-of-time pitches. I also found the grades to be quite lenient although I think the bulge finger crack does warrant 9/9-.

After humping 2 sets of cams and only a few nuts up there and trying to slot cams into nut placements I'd agree that nuts are the way to go (I'd recommend 1 set of cams and 2 se... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Zot Face (5.8+)
By: Edward Jenner When: Jun 17, 2004

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Comments: Jesse, it sounds like you may have gone straight up instead of doing the traverse, which looked very doable, both from below and from the belay ledge a few feet from the top. If this is the case, it looked nicer than doing the traverse and is probably the more obvious line. You'd know if you did the traverse, especially if using single ropes, since it goes 15-20ft left.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Pony Express (5.11c)
By: Edward Jenner When: Jun 4, 2004

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Comments: How can a trad route be 'contrived'? That seems a contradiction of terms. Similarly I don't see how one can be 'off route'. The whole point (for me) about a trad route is you get to choose exactly how you climb the section of rock. The grade is only a guide anyway.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Turbo Charged, Inter-Cooled... (5.10b/c)
By: Edward Jenner When: Jun 4, 2004

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Comments: I know I'm in the minority, but for some reason I had trouble with this climb and found it harder than other 10b's or The Big Chill. It only has one crux section of a couple of moves, but I always feel scrunched up, then have to match on a long reach which feels like I'm going to peel off of. I guess it just exposes my weeknesses, although I'll play the 'height card' and say it's easier for short people!


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