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Member Since: Sep 26, 2011
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 5,174
Total Points: 86
Last Year: 27
Last 30 Days: 0
1 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has EDJ been climbing?










Contributions


All 90 | Routes 6 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 26 | Posts 41 | Stars 14 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Between Heaven and Earth (p... (5.12a)
By: EDJ When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: So happy to open this pitch! Thank you to everyone who has supported this project, especially ACE/FHRC and Steve M. at the state park. Look forward to seeing the whole route posted before too long I hope.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: EDJ When: May 16, 2015

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Comments: Good pics. Thanks for posting them!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Love Minus Zero (5.11c R)
By: EDJ When: Jan 28, 2015

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Comments: The black hand crack mentioned is on T2 and it is gained by going right not left off the ledge. I think the shallow corner is a great feature of the route and should not be missed however.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Physical Graffiti (5.11+)
By: EDJ When: Jan 21, 2015

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Comments: This is another route for which to thank A.C.E., GO ACE!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Criller AKA Dwayne and Crai... (5.11+)
By: EDJ When: Jan 20, 2015

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Comments: This is a worthy route...a pain to rig for a TR, however. Wayne had preplaced some gear for his attempt which came in handy for directionals. I think this route is worth bolting. It would link nicely into Joe's pitch higher up. What would Wayne want?


Location: CO : Action Commmitee For Eldora...
By: EDJ When: Oct 23, 2014

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Comments: I do that route... same old bolts. I would replace them with you, good call.
Get in touch...Eric J


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Fresh Garbage (5.9 R)
By: EDJ When: Sep 21, 2014

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Comments: Do this route last. I still had fun though.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Rosy II - (In Memory Of Lay... (5.11b PG13)
By: EDJ When: Jun 21, 2014

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Comments: Great new/old school adventure style route. It deserves to be popularized!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Without A Net (5.11+ PG13)
By: EDJ When: Jun 11, 2014

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Comments: Thanks to ACE/FHRC for facilitating the new route process in Eldo. There are some gems still out there!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Exhibit A (5.8 C2+ R)
By: EDJ When: May 23, 2014

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Comments: The bolts were replaced today.... It is ready for all contenders, middle to hard 5.13(?).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Better Layton Never (5.12b)
By: EDJ When: May 15, 2014

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Comments: Thanks to A.C.E. and the state park for the hardware and otherwise facilitating the new route process. Have fun!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Hearts and Arrows (5.12b)
By: EDJ When: Aug 24, 2013

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Comments: We did this route the day after heavy storms, and the wall was dripping wet. The climb was dry the whole way! An awesome classic!


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : Southern Pillar : Up Yours (5.12a)
By: EDJ When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: this route climbs ok but badly needs new bolts and a reworking of the bit up to the second bolt. Perhaps add another bolt.... a cam would suffice for now but just how safe are those rusty bolts?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : ATC (5.8)
By: EDJ When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: Fixed anchor where you can otherwise easily walk off?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall
By: EDJ When: Nov 12, 2012

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Comments: Thank you for posting that you found my device...could you call me at 303 656 1550 to arrange getting it? Thanks again.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Blue Steel (5.12b R)
By: EDJ When: Oct 29, 2012

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Comments: Fun route...very roof routesque, kinda a one move wonder and not the hardest 12b around at that....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: EDJ When: Oct 21, 2012

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Comments: The start as shown goes, but the preferred way starts by pulling up and right on #169 then moving left across finger traverse to the first bolt.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: EDJ When: Oct 21, 2012

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Comments: The red line is a bit off at the point it crosses #127. It joins #127 at the ledge for 10' then moves left.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Runsholl Scrunch (5.12- PG13)
By: EDJ When: Aug 30, 2012

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Comments: I fell twice on this route after breaking two different big holds. I'm not sure if it is harder now. I think a #4.5 Camalot is better than just a #4, and this route is PG-13 due to the ledge you will hit if you blow gear at all. Fun moves, 5.10d from the pins up. No fixed wire.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Reckoning (5.12d)
By: EDJ When: Jul 19, 2012

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Comments: The crux pitch is super for the grade..No stopper move, easy on the fingers and just great fun. The best approach cuts off the end of the big switchback just past darkness till dawn and contours over to a notch then follows an easy 3rd class ledge (careful one big lose block)to the base.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Guardian Saint (5.11+ PG13)
By: EDJ When: Jun 18, 2012

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Comments: Super great pitch, the ledge presents a hazard though and this could easily elevate it to a R rating if care is not taken leading up to the crux. The final slab is 5.10 and also requires aptitude and selection of wires to keep it safe. Full value Eldo fun!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Super Natural (5.11d PG13)
By: EDJ When: Jun 10, 2012

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Comments: This is a classic pitch! Difficult onsight, sustained for Eldo, great way to link into Vertigo and beyond...much slater.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Space (5.11b PG13)
By: EDJ When: Jun 1, 2012

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Comments: Great find, Chip! Thanks! Super fun climb, exciting and safe....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Much Slater (left variation... (5.11d X)
By: EDJ When: Nov 29, 2011

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Comments: Curiousity and lack of a belayer got the best of me the other day so I TR soloed the route a couple times. The left way does still go after the broken hold incident, but it leads you back to the flake with the pin in it. So, in the end, I think the best and most natural climbing is to follow the seam, tending right (actually passing a medium nut placement), to the pin on the flake. From there, it's spicy to the fixed nut, then you're done. Great full value pitch, .11d R.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Krystal Klyr (5.11b X)
By: EDJ When: Oct 7, 2011

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Comments: I can report that this pitch is actually ok to lead. The gear was not perfect but skillfully placed and not skipped where it presented itself. The feeling was of excitement as opposed to fear. I would tell my friends to do this one, a classic for sure!


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