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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : ATC (5.8)
By: EDJ When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fixed anchor where you can otherwise easily walk off?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall
By: EDJ When: Nov 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thank you for posting that you found my device...could you call me at 303 656 1550 to arrange getting it? Thanks again.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Blue Steel (5.12b R)
By: EDJ When: Oct 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route...very roof routesque, kinda a one move wonder and not the hardest 12b around at that....
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: EDJ When: Oct 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The start as shown goes, but the preferred way starts by pulling up and right on #169 then moving left across finger traverse to the first bolt.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: EDJ When: Oct 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The red line is a bit off at the point it crosses #127. It joins #127 at the ledge for 10' then moves left.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Runsholl Scrunch (5.12- PG13)
By: EDJ When: Aug 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I fell twice on this route after breaking two different big holds. I'm not sure if it is harder now. I think a #4.5 Camalot is better than just a #4, and this route is PG-13 due to the ledge you will hit if you blow gear at all. Fun moves, 5.10d from the pins up. No fixed wire.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Reckoning (5.12d)
By: EDJ When: Jul 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux pitch is super for the grade..No stopper move, easy on the fingers and just great fun. The best approach cuts off the end of the big switchback just past darkness till dawn and contours over to a notch then follows an easy 3rd class ledge (careful one big lose block)to the base.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Guardian Saint (5.11+ PG13)
By: EDJ When: Jun 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super great pitch, the ledge presents a hazard though and this could easily elevate it to a R rating if care is not taken leading up to the crux. The final slab is 5.10 and also requires aptitude and selection of wires to keep it safe. Full value Eldo fun!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Super Natural (5.11d PG13)
By: EDJ When: Jun 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a classic pitch! Difficult onsight, sustained for Eldo, great way to link into Vertigo and beyond...much slater.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Space (5.11b PG13)
By: EDJ When: Jun 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great find, Chip! Thanks! Super fun climb, exciting and safe....
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Much Slater (left variation... (5.11d X)
By: EDJ When: Nov 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Curiousity and lack of a belayer got the best of me the other day so I TR soloed the route a couple times. The left way does still go after the broken hold incident, but it leads you back to the flake with the pin in it. So, in the end, I think the best and most natural climbing is to follow the seam, tending right (actually passing a medium nut placement), to the pin on the flake. From there, it's spicy to the fixed nut, then you're done. Great full value pitch, .11d R.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Krystal Klyr (5.11b X)
By: EDJ When: Oct 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I can report that this pitch is actually ok to lead. The gear was not perfect but skillfully placed and not skipped where it presented itself. The feeling was of excitement as opposed to fear. I would tell my friends to do this one, a classic for sure!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Perilous Journey (5.11b X)
By: EDJ When: Sep 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did this route on-sight free solo and feel the crux is getting the hold that Dan Stone has in the Levin guide. At that point you are a long way up(more than 30ft). The climbing lower is hard as well but falling from lower wouldn't be totally unthinkable. For me route finding was a definate challenge as there was no chalk and I certainly didn't want to screw up. If one were to rope up, there is gear to be had but I don't think you could down grade it from X to R just based on mondern gear. I... more >>
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