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Member Since: Nov 24, 2010
Last Visit: Jan 9, 2014
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 89 | Routes | Areas | Photos 5 | Page Improvments | Comments 7 | Posts 14 | Stars 46 | Ratings 17

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Century Lake Area : ... : Pick Pocket (5.11b)
By: edehaven When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: Well looks like some "nice" person has chipped/enlarged two of the holds in the crux section to make it easier. Can't believe anyone would do this on a climb at this level. Probably 10c now if that.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - North Side : R. A. F. (5.9)
By: edehaven When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: For sure a fun and worthwhile route to add to a tick list. Not sure about it being spicy or having no holds at all, as that as far as Jtree friction is concerned it has perfect tiny edges and little bulges everwhere you need them and the bolts are right around each crux making it a great route to test your friction limits without paying a big price.
If I am in the area its a route I never miss and always smile after. Try Swing low right next to it or WAC on the next buldge left to make it a 5.7... more >>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Century Lake Area : ... : Pick Pocket (5.11b)
By: edehaven When: Jul 28, 2012

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Comments: Was out there today and both top anchors are pulling out.
I would be very aware of this before climbing again.

If anyone knows who the FA is I would be happy to rebolt this if you have contact info? (was it Oliphant?)


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Mt. Gorgeous : Marauding Monkeys (5.11a)
By: edehaven When: Jul 23, 2012

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Comments: 7-21-2012 There was a large beehive just past where the two routes split off, might still be the other one farther up, but cant tell.
My partner got stung so be aware

just FYI


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Century Lake Area : ... : Pick Pocket (5.11b)
By: edehaven When: Apr 2, 2012

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Comments:

Dont watch if you dont want beta!
Fun enjoyable route in a great setting


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : Central Pinnacles : Wilbur's Tombstone : Takes a Thief (5.11a R)
By: edehaven When: Jun 27, 2011

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Comments: Great route, just wish it had at least 1 more bolt maybe between the 2 existing ones. As with what the writer says a fall at the second bolt could be very dangerous.
You can TR this route by climbing up the east face and using the anchor from "What a woman". 2 long slings (20' or so) and a few lockers and your good to go.
Makes the route much more fun and safe. Just watch for the swing in the opening moves



Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : Central Pinnacles : Thunderbird Wall : Medicine Man (5.7)
By: edehaven When: Jun 27, 2011

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Comments: Agreed with the rest, a bit heady. For a first time leader the start to the first bolt might be a bit intimidating. Fun route none the less but I put it at a 5.8 as well