Comments: Well looks like some "nice" person has chipped/enlarged two of the holds in the crux section to make it easier. Can't believe anyone would do this on a climb at this level. Probably 10c now if that.
Comments: For sure a fun and worthwhile route to add to a tick list. Not sure about it being spicy or having no holds at all, as that as far as Jtree friction is concerned it has perfect tiny edges and little bulges everwhere you need them and the bolts are right around each crux making it a great route to test your friction limits without paying a big price. If I am in the area its a route I never miss and always smile after. Try Swing low right next to it or WAC on the next buldge left to make it a 5.7... more >>
Comments: Great route, just wish it had at least 1 more bolt maybe between the 2 existing ones. As with what the writer says a fall at the second bolt could be very dangerous. You can TR this route by climbing up the east face and using the anchor from "What a woman". 2 long slings (20' or so) and a few lockers and your good to go. Makes the route much more fun and safe. Just watch for the swing in the opening moves