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Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Yankee Clipper (5.12a)
By: Eddie Avallone When: Jan 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The last 2 pitches are the best on the route, a 10a/b dihedral and 12a/c thin face. Exposed and wild to a great topout!
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Summersville Lake : The Colosseum : Tobacco Road (5.12b/c)
By: Eddie Avallone When: Dec 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: if you have questions on ratings, look it up!
or send it!
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Summersville Lake : The Colosseum : Tobacco Road (5.12b/c)
By: Eddie Avallone When: Dec 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: 12b in the guidebook. contrary to the description, it is just left of The Mercy Seat (13a/b) not The Pod (also 13a/b), which is several bolt lines away.
this route is a classic (10d to a short boulder prob. to 5.9), but needs new nylon--the yellow specta is now almost a year old and who knows about the green webbing!
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Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico
By: Eddie Avallone When: Sep 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you fly into Monterrey and get a taxi to the Potrero, how does one get to and from the crags? Walking distance, hitchhike, etc??
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Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Qual Wall : A Red Recollection (5.11a)
By: Eddie Avallone When: May 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: sorry, typo!
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Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Qual Wall : Unknown / "Meaner than Gree... (5.12a/b)
By: Eddie Avallone When: May 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route today. Don't know anything about the left branch of the bolts, but it looks to be easier than this route, maybe easy 11?
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area : Son Of Great Chimney (5.11c)
By: Eddie Avallone When: Nov 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: how is this thing for pro, are the pins gone? if so, do nuts work where they were?
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : New Sandstone Area
By: Eddie Avallone When: Nov 20, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got on a line here between donkey and ..chimp. No send, but it was really, really technical and very hard. Anyone know anything about it?
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Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Y-Crack Wall : Straight No Chaser (5.11c)
By: Eddie Avallone When: Oct 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you don't want to mess around with fishing for nuts, the top protects great with a green alien, #3 Camalot and #2 Camalot. That's it. Bomber . Bottom takes .75 and two #1 Camalots. Fantastic lead.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Pacific Ocean Wall (5.11d)
By: Eddie Avallone When: Oct 17, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: although I haven't seen it, a friend saw someone lead it maybe 4-5 years ago.
one verrrry small nut coming out of the wave. good pro after the crux. still be cratering if you blew at any of the likely spots, though.
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