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Magic Ed


Member Since: May 14, 2006
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Ed Wright


Point Rank: # 1,750
Total Points: 332
Last Year: 27
Last 30 Days: 10
37 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ed Wright been climbing?










Contributions


All 731 | Routes | Areas | Photos 57 | Page Improvments | Comments 47 | Posts 618 | Stars 9 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area : Cracker Jack (5.8)
By: Ed Wright When: May 4, 2010

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Comments: Had a mini epic when I soloed this one onsight. The bottom crack to the big ledge went smoothly but the next 15 feet were hard. What looks like another good ledge is actually a smooth sloping ramp with NO holds. Finally found a bit of a micro-edge in the upper right corner, moved up and onto the ledge, stuck my hands into the twin cracks above and about a thousand angry wasps came flying out. I got stung about 30 times as I flew up the rest of the route.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Super Nova (5.11a)
By: Ed Wright When: Feb 8, 2010

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Comments: The approach is only terrible if you don't take the trail along the left side of the canyon and go straight up the scree!!


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Never Cry Wolf (5.10c)
By: Ed Wright When: Dec 15, 2009

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Comments: The correct name of this route is Never Cry Wolf.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico
By: Ed Wright When: Dec 8, 2009

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Comments: The only area affected was around the base of the Jungle Wall(the routes themselves are OK). The area will remain closed for a while but should be re-opened before long. The good that will come from this is that the local government now realizes we were serious when we told them it would be foolish to develop a picnicking area below this wall. All that work they did last year (or rather, what's left of it)will now be removed.


Location: Climbgal : One relaxing belay : Photo
By: Ed Wright When: Nov 5, 2009

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Comments: Don't see anything wrong with that.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Photo
By: Ed Wright When: Nov 24, 2008

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Comments: Frank Sarat was 900 feet up trundling some big blocks off of Voodoo Trance.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Photo
By: Ed Wright When: Sep 23, 2008

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Comments: This is not Emilio's Posse. This is Honor Among Thieves.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Photo
By: Ed Wright When: Sep 18, 2008

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Comments: This is the 6th pitch--tricky 10b crux!!


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Photo
By: Ed Wright When: Sep 18, 2008

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Comments: This pitch is actually 5.12c if you follow the bolts--12a if you move left after the second bolt and reach to your right to make the rest of the clips.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Hawk's Nest : Alpha Centauri (5.10d)
By: Ed Wright When: Jul 24, 2008

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Comments: I led this once in a warm summer rainstorm--the fact that I had it wired helped a bit!! There is a good rp placement before the pin--right after the hard start--if you want to bother.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Lost Face Area : Lost Face (5.6)
By: Ed Wright When: Jul 2, 2008

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Comments: This is a great route. I once led it during a summer downpour in a pair of old K-Mart tennis shoes!!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : La Cierta Edad (5.10d) : Photo
By: Ed Wright When: Dec 9, 2007

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Comments: I like that rock trick myself--in fact one time we snuck a bowling ball into a dude's pack before a long approach.

While climbing long routes, however, I believe each climber should carry his own small pack rather than have the second carry a heavier one.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : West Buttress (5.9+)
By: Ed Wright When: Nov 23, 2007

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Comments: This was the second route I ever climbed, on the first day I ever climbed. This was back in '67 when we had no harnesses or belay devices--it was quite an adventure. Been hooked and climbing ever since.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Photo
By: Ed Wright When: Oct 16, 2007

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Comments: Very nice!! Reminds me of why Red Rocks used to be my favorite place to climb.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: Ed Wright When: Sep 3, 2007

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Comments: Looks like the Zig-Zag man on the cigarrette papers.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : New Sandstone Area : Donkey On My Mind (5.12)
By: Ed Wright When: Jun 13, 2007

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Comments: It should be noted that this area is still off limits to climbers so be careful and don't get caught.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Upper Diagonal (5.9)
By: Ed Wright When: Jun 5, 2007

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Comments: I led this route one winter in the middle of a blizzard. When I find the photos I'll post them.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : South Bluff
By: Ed Wright When: Aug 18, 2006

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Comments: The best bouldering at Devil's Lake is on the South bluff. Good trail starts behind the boat landing parking lot.


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff)
By: Ed Wright When: May 14, 2006

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Comments: Don't know if it has a name but I remember that being 5.8.


Location: WI : High Cliff State Park
By: Ed Wright When: May 14, 2006

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Comments: A couple buddies and I climbed here in 1984 and '85--we climbed over 80 routes all from the ground up with no previous inspection or cleaning. We also did a handful of routes on top-rope. We did find a few old pitons here and there. It's a great little area and has nice camping and a nice beach frequented by babes from Appleton and Oshkosh.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13)
By: Ed Wright When: May 14, 2006

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Comments: A little more historical perspective--I was along on the FFA and have photos of Jim leading the traverse which I'll try to post soon. Unfortunately I ran out of film and don't have any shots of the upper pitches. It was definitely more exciting without the bolts!


Location: WI : Buildering Sites : UW Whitewater Phy Ed Buildi...
By: Ed Wright When: May 14, 2006

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Comments: I'm the original poster who claimed this to be the best buildering on the planet. Unfortunately, after visiting for the first time in ten years I have to say that it can no longer hold up to that claim because all the new construction around the building has eliminated 80% of the climbing. What is left is still very good but it's only a fraction of what was there before.


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