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Magic Ed


Member Since: May 14, 2006
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 1,814
Total Points: 327
Last Year: 21
Last 30 Days: 0
39 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ed Wright been climbing?










Contributions


All 742 | Routes | Areas | Photos 56 | Page Improvements | Comments 47 | Posts 630 | Stars 9 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : Culo De Gato
By: Ed Wright When: Mar 28, 2011

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Comments: This review does not do the place justice. If the Culo del Gato (officially Las Ventanas de Mina) were in the USA it would be a major destination with 500 routes--here it's just a little 8-pitch bump on the landscape.
Crescent Moon Buttress is a great climb, not just supposedly. It's prolly the best climb you'll ever do on mediocre rock--after the first pitch it's either really loose or really sharp. But it's a lot of fun with unusual rock formations, a tyrolean traverse and a pendulum.
Th... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : ... : Photo
By: Ed Wright When: Jan 27, 2011

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Comments: I once soloed the Wind Ridge in a snowstorm, but you guys are truly sick.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Wiessner Wall : Wiessner Chimney (5.4)
By: Ed Wright When: Dec 23, 2010

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Comments: Who needs pro? It's a fun solo.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Photo
By: Ed Wright When: Nov 6, 2010

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Comments: Sweet climbing with some one-finger pockets.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Photo
By: Ed Wright When: Oct 29, 2010

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Comments: Nice shot. Can I put this in my web site?

magicedspotrerochico.com


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Nitrogen Narcosis (5.11a) : Photo
By: Ed Wright When: Oct 25, 2010

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Comments: Nice photo, but, where's the rope? I can see a bit of it going up from her harness but then it disappears. Photoshopped out???


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area : Cracker Jack (5.8)
By: Ed Wright When: May 4, 2010

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Comments: Had a mini epic when I soloed this one onsight. The bottom crack to the big ledge went smoothly but the next 15 feet were hard. What looks like another good ledge is actually a smooth sloping ramp with NO holds. Finally found a bit of a micro-edge in the upper right corner, moved up and onto the ledge, stuck my hands into the twin cracks above and about a thousand angry wasps came flying out. I got stung about 30 times as I flew up the rest of the route.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Super Nova (5.11a)
By: Ed Wright When: Feb 8, 2010

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Comments: The approach is only terrible if you don't take the trail along the left side of the canyon and go straight up the scree!!


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Never Cry Wolf (5.10c)
By: Ed Wright When: Dec 15, 2009

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Comments: The correct name of this route is Never Cry Wolf.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico
By: Ed Wright When: Dec 8, 2009

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Comments: The only area affected was around the base of the Jungle Wall(the routes themselves are OK). The area will remain closed for a while but should be re-opened before long. The good that will come from this is that the local government now realizes we were serious when we told them it would be foolish to develop a picnicking area below this wall. All that work they did last year (or rather, what's left of it)will now be removed.


Location: Climbgal : One relaxing belay : Photo
By: Ed Wright When: Nov 5, 2009

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Comments: Don't see anything wrong with that.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Photo
By: Ed Wright When: Nov 24, 2008

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Comments: Frank Sarat was 900 feet up trundling some big blocks off of Voodoo Trance.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Photo
By: Ed Wright When: Sep 23, 2008

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Comments: This is not Emilio's Posse. This is Honor Among Thieves.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Photo
By: Ed Wright When: Sep 18, 2008

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Comments: This is the 6th pitch--tricky 10b crux!!


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Photo
By: Ed Wright When: Sep 18, 2008

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Comments: This pitch is actually 5.12c if you follow the bolts--12a if you move left after the second bolt and reach to your right to make the rest of the clips.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Hawk's Nest : Alpha Centauri (5.10d)
By: Ed Wright When: Jul 24, 2008

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Comments: I led this once in a warm summer rainstorm--the fact that I had it wired helped a bit!! There is a good rp placement before the pin--right after the hard start--if you want to bother.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Lost Face Area : Lost Face (5.6)
By: Ed Wright When: Jul 2, 2008

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Comments: This is a great route. I once led it during a summer downpour in a pair of old K-Mart tennis shoes!!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : La Cierta Edad (5.10d) : Photo
By: Ed Wright When: Dec 9, 2007

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Comments: I like that rock trick myself--in fact one time we snuck a bowling ball into a dude's pack before a long approach.

While climbing long routes, however, I believe each climber should carry his own small pack rather than have the second carry a heavier one.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : West Buttress (5.9+)
By: Ed Wright When: Nov 23, 2007

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Comments: This was the second route I ever climbed, on the first day I ever climbed. This was back in '67 when we had no harnesses or belay devices--it was quite an adventure. Been hooked and climbing ever since.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Photo
By: Ed Wright When: Oct 16, 2007

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Comments: Very nice!! Reminds me of why Red Rocks used to be my favorite place to climb.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: Ed Wright When: Sep 3, 2007

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Comments: Looks like the Zig-Zag man on the cigarrette papers.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : New Sandstone Area : Donkey On My Mind (5.12)
By: Ed Wright When: Jun 13, 2007

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Comments: It should be noted that this area is still off limits to climbers so be careful and don't get caught.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Upper Diagonal (5.9)
By: Ed Wright When: Jun 5, 2007

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Comments: I led this route one winter in the middle of a blizzard. When I find the photos I'll post them.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : South Bluff
By: Ed Wright When: Aug 18, 2006

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Comments: The best bouldering at Devil's Lake is on the South bluff. Good trail starts behind the boat landing parking lot.


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff)
By: Ed Wright When: May 14, 2006

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Comments: Don't know if it has a name but I remember that being 5.8.


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