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Member Since: Aug 11, 2010
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 3,825
Total Points: 116
Last Year: 94
Last 30 Days: 1
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has earl mcalister been climbing?










Contributions


All 113 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 12 | Page Improvements | Comments 11 | Posts 85 | Stars 4 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Lone Star (5.11)
By: earl mcalister When: Oct 12, 2014

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Comments: The bolt protecting the crux has been replaced. Gear wise, we got by with bringing one old #4 camalot, rather than a 4 and 5. On the last pitch watch out for loose rock from people topping out epinephrine. My partner almost got clocked by a big one.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : The Polish Route (5.10+)
By: earl mcalister When: Sep 7, 2014

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Comments: RAP BETA: You CAN NOT rap Blowhard (route to left) with a 70 meter rope (we tried). To rappel from the top of the Polish Tower traverse east (up canyon) for about 200 feet to some small pine shrubs (some live, some dead). Slightly down and left from these shrubs you will find a fixed nut anchor. From there, all raps trend rappeler's left and are slung blocks, and piton anchors. Can be done with a 60 meter rope. Watch for stuck ropes and expect every pull to bring down loose rock.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Monitor and Merrimac Buttes : Without A Net (5.8 X)
By: earl mcalister When: Apr 5, 2014

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Comments: There are none of the fixed anchors that are mentioned in Cameron Burn's book. We did the route as 1 200 foot long pitch. Beware of the giant flake in the upper part of the climb. Chimneying against it would be a bad idea, especially if you pitch it out and your belayer is in the chimney with you. Rap anchors are on the route Merry Maker (~100 feet right of Without a Net) and are beefed up bolts and chains with ASCA stamps. Thanks for the new anchors.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Texas Hold 'Em (5.11c)
By: earl mcalister When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: As someone who has climbed a lot at indian creek, i think having only 2 gold camalots makes the final pitch quite runout, especially after several prior pitches of dificult climbing to pump you out. 3 would make it much more sane and enjoyable. As of october 2013 there was a fixed yellow link cam on othis pitch that saved by butt. Good route overall. Varied and challenging but safe.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Warbonnet Peak : Black Elk (5.11a)
By: earl mcalister When: Aug 1, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this route last week. I wanted to clarify that a new #5 is a total waste of time to bring up there. It will not fit. We carried the thing the whole day. If I were to climb it again I would bring a new #4 BD and an old 4. You can easily slide the cams up with you and make the crux very safe. Three #3's would also make the moves below the crux a bit safer if you aren't solid on that size (we had 2 and were fine). A 70 meter rope would allow you to link pitches 2 and 3, wh... more >>


Location: MT : Blodgett Canyon : Flathead Buttress : My Moms Muscle Shirt (5.10+)
By: earl mcalister When: Jun 19, 2013

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Comments: We brought a double rack to 3 inches with a new 4 and an old 4. The old 4 worked well for the 5.9 widepitch and can be bumped up with you. We appreciated the new 4 on the crux roof pitch. #4 and 5 brass offsets were nice for the .9+ 2nd pitch. Excellent crack climbing the whole route. It took 5 rappels to get down. 2 of these required two ropes. Long day but well worth it.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Slow Children (5.10d)
By: earl mcalister When: Dec 16, 2012

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Comments: This is the best pitch I've ever done, anywhere. The crack and gear is perfect (with some spice off the ledge), the scenes are beautiful, and the exposure is excellent. Can't recommend this enough.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Great White Icicle Area : Pandora's Blocks (5.10+)
By: earl mcalister When: Sep 10, 2012

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Comments: The 3rd to last bolt on pitch 2 has been flattened by rock fall. couldnt fit a nano biner through but was able to girth hitch a very thin spectra sling (smaller than mammut, which probably wont fit). The bolt is skippable as the next isnt too far away. This route bested my partner and I yesterday. I found it very difficult for .10+. Couldn't climb the first pitch clean at all, even on top rope. couldnt make it past 6th bolt (hard move left) but was able to sneak right around corner with g ear. ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Atlas Shrugged (5.11d R) : Photo
By: earl mcalister When: Apr 26, 2012

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Comments: Notice the backwards hat and contrasting colored shirt? That's style!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Psychobabble Wall
By: earl mcalister When: Apr 23, 2012

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Comments: Does anyone know sun exposure times?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : The Mystery Machine (5.10b/c)
By: earl mcalister When: Jan 30, 2011

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Comments: My favorite pitch at the Crick. Varied and in an amazingly cool location. I would recommend bringing 4 red camalot size pieces and 3 of everything else.