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First ascent of the metal arches in my school library...Holderness School


Member Since: Jul 28, 2008
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
Contact E thatcher


Point Rank: # 595
Total Points: 969
Last Year: 127
Last 30 Days: 0
68 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



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Contributions


All (603) | Routes (13) | Areas (1) | Photos (131) | Comments (164) | Posts (162) | Stars (118) | Ratings (14)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Cathedral Ledge Ice Climbs : Repentance (WI5 M4-5)
By: E thatcher When: Feb 5, 2014

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Comments: So that others don't make the same mistake as us, the preferred second pitch belay is higher then you might suspect. The first fixed anchor looks like tat with a bunch of small ledges. Go another 20 feet or so and there will be a roughly 2'x4' ledge with another fixed anchor (4 pins tied off with thick orange static cord as of 1/14). Second ledge would be much more comfortable and more protected from falling ice.


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Rumney Ice Climbs : Apocalypse Wall : Parallel Gully (WI3)
By: E thatcher When: Dec 15, 2013

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Comments: I think the beta for this route is to chimney. There are a number of spots where you can get very comfortable rests by leaning on the left wall. Rest your calfs, place the pro there. Solid grade 2 with this technique in my opinion.


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Kinsman Notch
By: E thatcher When: Dec 15, 2013

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Comments: Most rappel anchors were replaced at the beginning of this season by the MMG crew with retired rope and beefy quick links. Enjoy.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Military Wall : Tissue Tiger (5.12b)
By: E thatcher When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: I found the no hands rest as well. A solid knee bar that not only allowed me to go no hands, but got me halfway through the crux without even having to pull. Felt rather soft with this beta, but very fun!


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M...
By: E thatcher When: Nov 17, 2013

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Comments: Found rope at A&D today. PM me and name it to claim it.


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea
By: E thatcher When: Nov 2, 2013

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Comments: Hey Soon, I have to say that start to techno is some of my favorite climbing on the cliff. Being one of the people who installed the latest ladder, I can assure you its purpose is not specifically to skip a section of climbing that some find to be tricky. It's so that you can get on the many other climbs shared by that start while others warm up on, or figure out the beta on that tricky start...sorry if you are aware of all this and were simply being sarcastic. Much is lost in the medium of the... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea
By: E thatcher When: Nov 2, 2013

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Comments: Soon, I would assume the NFS position would be that it is stashed equipment and therefore abandoned property after 14 days, much like fixed draws.

Your point about non-Wiamea climbers is valid, to me it would be to easy for them to discount the ladders purpose if they've never experienced the cluster that results from 6 climbs worth of climbers trying to get on 1 shared start. In my mind, this is an issue to be resolved by those who climb at this cliff, and understand it's purpose.

At the mo... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea
By: E thatcher When: Nov 2, 2013

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Comments: Hey Soon. The last time an actual vote was held was either in 2007 or 2008 at an RCA meeting at the Rock Barn. The result was the ladder would stay. More recently, it's been in conversations with people who climb at Wiamea, throughout the summer and fall. While this is not scientific polling, it's pretty easy to understand where the community stands if you're there on any given weekend, let alone many months of weekends.


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Photo
By: E thatcher When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: This fixed instillation does nothing but promote laziness and dangerous climbing practices. For what? to lessen crowding( one more climber sleeping is one less climber climbing). This offends my personal climbing ethics. Somebody please call M.G. to have it removed.


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea
By: E thatcher When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: Just to be clear, the last time the RCA addressed the ladder issue was at a large meeting 5 or 6 years ago now...


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Cote d'Azure (5.13b)
By: E thatcher When: Oct 25, 2013

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Comments: For A while I was thinking this was a step up from other .13b's I had done. The boulder problem at the start is just HARD, with a couple of moves you could easily fall off of. After getting on it today in crisp to almost too cold of conditions, the boulder problem felt significantly easier because of one friction dependent hold. I could still see it getting the b/ c grade, but not as convinced. Moral of the story, crisp temps can help a lot on this one!


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Lions and Tigers and Bears (5.11b)
By: E thatcher When: Sep 15, 2013

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Comments: Both finishes are fixed in their entirety with permadraws.


Location: NH : Band M (CLOSED)
By: E thatcher When: Aug 25, 2013

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Comments: Ben, are you aware the cliff is closed by the land owners? Unless something has changed, your threatening the potential reopening by not heeding the current closure. Something to consider...


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Sweet Polly Purebred (5.10c)
By: E thatcher When: Aug 4, 2013

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Comments: Hey Nick,
sounds like you've had a rad tour of Rumney's classics recently. right on. The way you describe doing the crux on SPP indeed sounds hard. I think with some refinement through that crux you'd find it more appropriate at the grade. Similarly, there is an in obvious way to do the final upper section that makes it casual. I'll spare the inter webs my beta spray, but if you want an idea of another way to get through that crux drop me a PM. If you hang out at main cliff long enough I'm su... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Predator (5.13b) : Photo
By: E thatcher When: Jul 16, 2013

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Comments: Ha, this draw is now on my rear view mirror. The thing seriously sketched me out. The sides are sharp and the gate looks like a piece of kielbasa that was left on the grill to long. No clue how that happened to it! What's scary it that this is the victory whip draw!


Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Photo
By: E thatcher When: May 19, 2013

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Comments: How are those quick clips looking? worth going up with a wrench to grab them and repurpose them on another climb?! those babies are expensive! no need to waste 'em


Location: NH : Rumney
By: E thatcher When: May 17, 2013

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Comments: I easily pulled a commonly used hold off of Restless Native today. This, coupled with the major rock fall on Jolt, has me thinking that the rain followed by cold earlier this week was cause for a serious freeze thaw cycle that has loosened stuff up at Rumney. Be careful out there! whether you're at Wiamea, the Hinterlands, or any other crag. Rock could come down anytime, especially after a strong freeze thaw cycle!


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : The Flume
By: E thatcher When: Feb 24, 2013

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Comments: I would think twice about mixed climbing here, Ryan. This is a very very popular tourist attraction that brings tourists right along side of the rock walls. I don't think they are coming here to see scratches from errant picks and poons. There's plenty of crappy rock elsewhere to scrap up that tourists don't walk by thousands of time each summer. The ice here is rad. We should keep it to that and be stoked


Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Left : Promises (5.12d)
By: E thatcher When: Feb 1, 2013

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Comments: Lee, you're a model of sensibility! if the climbing community had more people with your level of psych and understanding, and lack of ego, we would have far fewer "girl talk" like fiascos. Props, and thanks, to all of you who've put up awesome routes in Rumney.


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Newfound Lake : Unkown 2 (Pikeline?) (WI3+) : Photo
By: E thatcher When: Jan 15, 2013

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Comments: This is indeed the climb.


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Newfound Lake
By: E thatcher When: Jan 11, 2013

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Comments: Possible for an admin to put these routes in order? L- R it's unknown, Red Headwall, bloodline, Unknown 2, Duofold, Pikeline...


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Newfound Lake : Blood line (WI3)
By: E thatcher When: Jan 11, 2013

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Comments: I just never get enough of this climb. There are many variations that feel completely different and probably span a full grad from 3- to 4- or even 4. I think one could climb it three times in a row findings different lines each time. This is all dependent on how "in" it is, of course.


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Newfound Lake : Pikeline (WI5- PG13)
By: E thatcher When: Dec 25, 2012

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Comments: The ramp above the initial pillar can be hollow and pretty hard to protect at times. Since you can't see it to well from the ground, I usually bring some rock gear on this one, which takes the bite out of it a bit...


Location: NH : Hall's Ledge : The Golden Wall : Dirty Thieving Loran (5.8) : Photo
By: E thatcher When: Nov 27, 2012

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Comments: We be pinchin', and I hope you Like pinchin' too....hmm. doesn't work as well. But I'm not seeing any jams...


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Goodrich Rock Trail : Davis Boulders : Lower Davis : 538 Boulder
By: E thatcher When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: Now I know what it looks like when a political junkie develops a bouldering area. Pretty fascinating statistician though.


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