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Summit of my first tower, the Rectory via Fine Jad...


Member Since: Dec 5, 2010
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 434
Total Points: 1,494
Last Year: 43
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Dylan Weldin been climbing?










Contributions


All 1147 | Routes 21 | Areas | Photos 246 | Page Improvements | Comments 54 | Posts 170 | Stars 425 | Ratings 231
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : El Sendero Diablo (The Devi... (5.11c)
By: Dylan Weldin When: Dec 24, 2014

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Comments: To find this route head up to the Outrage Wall and on the right end look for this small cave:

Climber on P2:
Climber on P2:


The 5.9 P1 ends at the anchor immediately to the left of the cave. From there follow the obvious bolt line through some of the best climbing in the park!


DO NOT let all the rumors about heinous rappels deter you from getting on this thing. They are unwarranted and you'll likely hear them from people who have never climbed the route...

Climb the 5.7 pitch to the summit. The FA'ist ... more >>


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Thunderkiss (5.12a)
By: Dylan Weldin When: Dec 24, 2014

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Comments: I got on this last week and found Doze's comment about the .11b pitch valid. Lots of rockfall on this pitch resulting in missing holds and a drastically increased grade for the moves there. We bailed. Swinging fall was dangerous given the runout on what used to be easy terrain.

I loved pitches 1-4. Recommend stopping after the killer pocket sequence on the .11d P4.

Missing holds detail (compare with Hank's photo)
Missing holds detail (compare with Hank's photo)


Missing holds overview. 5.11b pitch no longer safe...
Missing holds overview. 5.11b pitch no longer safe or 5.11b...



Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Black Cat Bone (5.10d)
By: Dylan Weldin When: Dec 24, 2014

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Comments: My partner and I climbed this with an uncut 60m rope. On two of the rappels we were far short of the anchor resulting in some complications on descent. Save yourself the headache and please use a 70m rope for this route.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Simians to the Sun (5.9+) : Photo
By: Dylan Weldin When: Dec 11, 2013

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Comments: Heck yeah that's Tim! Look at those glasses....


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Silverton : Photo
By: Dylan Weldin When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: When I saw the thumbnail of this photo, I thought you were toting a clean mountain can on your haul loop :)

Nice climbing!


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bridge Area : Bridge Buttress : Easily Flakey (5.6 PG13)
By: Dylan Weldin When: May 25, 2013

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Comments: Hey MP'ers, sorry to cry about another poor lost cam but I was out here with a group of friends during the Rendezvous and I left a .5 link cam in this route as a directional. I was on the nearby "Englishman's Crack" with a partner and my friends who are in their budding stages of outdoor climbing didn't think to clean it. I know it's a long shot, but I'd love to see it again!

Cheers,
-Dylan Weldin


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Sweeney's Special (5.11d)
By: Dylan Weldin When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: Funny how the photo of Sam shows him clearly using both cracks... I think he might be all of 5'10" as well :)


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Triple Tree Area (Far Left) : Double Barrel (5.7)
By: Dylan Weldin When: Mar 31, 2013

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Comments: Not sure if I just did it wrong or what, but compared to the first pitch squeeze on Jah Man (Sister Superior tower in Moab area), this thing was harder... and I did this on TR :)

A #6 won't keep you from sliding down into this thing and breaking your ankles. Crack is at least 14" for the last 15-20'.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Photo
By: Dylan Weldin When: Mar 30, 2013

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Comments: Edit: Slaves is mis-labeled... this route is actually Sweeny Special.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Push-Me-Pull-You (5.10a)
By: Dylan Weldin When: Mar 27, 2013

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Comments: P1: tips lieback into hands into East-A awkward pod (protect w/ #3). Traverse left to anchor.

P2: face climb immediately above anchor, get into wide hands/ #4 sized crack to a ledge, new BD #5 (two would not be a bad idea) protects upper stacked-fist sized crack to the top of the Picto Cracks/ Double Exposure area.

Anchor: gear belay or terrain belay as the leader could not get sucked through the wide crack the follower comes up and through.

Continuing up the infamous "Blac... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Double Exposure (5.10)
By: Dylan Weldin When: Mar 27, 2013

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Comments: Great movement, fun deadpoint move around the arete after the first bolt, nice exposure, solid rock... what's missing?!?: chains on the anchor so you can get down hassle free. As of now, you have to rap the fixed line off the Watch Crystal Gully or down the face of the WC itself.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Dogs of Doom (5.8)
By: Dylan Weldin When: Mar 27, 2013

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Comments: The first bolt of "Double Exposure Direct" can now be clipped 2/3rds of the way up this route.


Location: Ryan Myers : C L I M B : Photo
By: Dylan Weldin When: Dec 8, 2012

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Comments: Nice use of runners Ryan :)


Location: UT : Saint George : Welcome Springs
By: Dylan Weldin When: Nov 15, 2012

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Comments: Google map:

maps.google.com/maps?saddr=Unk...


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Silverton : South Mineral Creek : Campground Couloir (WI3-4)
By: Dylan Weldin When: Nov 12, 2012

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Comments: She's in for the winter 2012-2013 season. Thin today (11-12) but manageable. We used a few pitons on rock bands to the left.

The cordelette on the first pitch should be replaced, but it has another season of usable life... .

Pitch 2 anchor webbing was in good condition.

2 60 meter ropes to rappel.

It's not worth going past the second pitch unless you're into slogging through snow.

4WD will get you within ten minutes of the base of the route.


Location: CO : Durango : Cascade Canyon : Canyon Entrance : Genesis (aka Face) (5.10)
By: Dylan Weldin When: Oct 25, 2012

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Comments: Jug just below the crux was found to be dangerously loose. I coerced it out to keep it from killing a belayer standing in the wrong spot... likely upped this route's rating a letter grade or two.

You're welcome?


Location: CO : Durango : Vallecito Crags
By: Dylan Weldin When: Oct 9, 2012

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Comments: Fort Lewis College Climbing Club put cairns in last spring. If you park at the right switchback, you shouldn't be able to miss the approach. Enjoy!

High Times cairn.
High Times cairn.


The trail begins here and almost immediately cuts ...
The trail begins here and almost immediately cuts right following the ridge line.



Location: CO : Durango : Vallecito Crags : Photo
By: Dylan Weldin When: Oct 9, 2012

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Comments: Nope, this is correct :) Enjoy!


Location: CO : Durango : Vallecito Crags
By: Dylan Weldin When: Apr 18, 2012

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Comments: Google map link directly to the talus field below the wall: maps.google.com/?ll=37.479373,....

I'm heading up there this weekend for my first time and will report back with photos/ driving directions/ approach instructions.


Location: CO : Durango : X Rock : Gold Wall : Gold Wall (5.10+)
By: Dylan Weldin When: Mar 31, 2012

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Comments: Best route at X Rock. Crash pad is a good idea for the tricky start above a nasty, ankle-breaking landing. Great face climbing that kind of reminded me of Penitente Canyon. I'll echo what Skyeler said about emotions!


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Primate Highway (5.11a)
By: Dylan Weldin When: Mar 30, 2012

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Comments: I wonder why Kozak "bombed" this route...?

The movement is similar and the climbing is as fun as Apes, Durangotan, Crime and Punishment, etc. Just a few pieces of gear recommended and otherwise enjoyable bolted climbing.

Gear:
-#6/7 BD nut (don't remember)
-(1) 0.75
-(1) 0.5
-(1) 0.4
-Green Alien.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Overview & Waterfall : The Dodgy Vixen (5.12a)
By: Dylan Weldin When: Mar 25, 2012

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Comments: Is this the route that pulls hueco jugs to a steep roof surmounted by crankin' on some epoxied crimps?


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Evolution (5.11b)
By: Dylan Weldin When: Mar 11, 2012

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Comments: After the addition of the "panty bolt", you now cut left at the THIRD bolt and then head straight up to an anchor hidden on a ledge at a perfect height for a 60m to reach. Extended 24" runners are a good idea to reduce the rope drag. Compared to Durangutan, Apes, and Crime and Punishment, this is the least trafficked route and is accordingly the dirtiest. The climbing is more sustained than some of the other sport routes on the face, but the crux move is extremely reachy.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Pandora (5.12a)
By: Dylan Weldin When: Mar 11, 2012

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Comments: Is this the first bolted line to the right of Punta? If so, what is the rating of P1 (ends with an awkward mantle onto the ledge)?


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Durango : Freed Canyon : Freed Canyon Falls (WI4)
By: Dylan Weldin When: Feb 23, 2012

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Comments: Ian, thanks for the additional information. At the request of Durango local Kevin Connolly, I have removed the GIS map and access beta that I previously provided. Perhaps the next step would be to get in touch with the Access Fund and go through all the proper formalities to ensure long term access.... Let me know if you'd like to collaborate on this project.


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