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Location: WI : Buildering Sites : UW Madison Campus : Deep Thaw (V3-4)
By: Dylan Colon When: Aug 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This seems to be pretty much the same problem I posted as Chamberlin Rock East Arete a few years ago. Not that it really matters. Its cool that people are climbing this still, and its cool that there is real bouldering right on campus.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : Bagatelle (5.12c/d R)
By: Dylan Colon When: Aug 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Getting off of the ground was quite possibly the hardest individual move of the whole route for me, but it goes.
BETA ALERT: My method was to get two small crimps around head height, and a crotch-splitting high step with the right foot on the obvious flat hold, pull statically off the ground onto that, and stab up right to a good hold. This move was low-percentage, but since it's the first move falling off of it isn't nearly as heartbreaking as falling off up higher.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Hourglass Direct (5.12a)
By: Dylan Colon When: Jun 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This may be because I want to have sent this, but I think that the blocks are on as long as you only use the ones that are truly left of the crack, and not the ones that are actually sticking out of the alcove. Since the blocks are really just a higher part of the starting ledge, eliminating them seems kind of arbitrary, especially since you need to use foot chips only a few inches above them. Thoughts?
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Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Winter Wall : Longing for Miss Adonis (5.12a)
By: Dylan Colon When: Jun 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I broke the start crimp off of this route earlier this week, didn't even notice it was gone until the next attempt. In its place is now a slightly smaller and less positive crimp, but it still goes and it is still possible to start statically off the ground. I don't think this changes the overall grade of the route, which is a really stiff 5.12a by Red Wing standards.
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Location: WI : Interstate State Park : Mike's Boulder
By: Dylan Colon When: Mar 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone know who added the really old bolt to the top of this boulder?
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Sometime Direct (5.10d R) : Photo
By: Dylan Colon When: Feb 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: To my eternal regret I was standing right next to Rhoads at that moment taking video, and my memory card filled up just as he entered the crux sequence, preventing me from catching video of the epic whipper.
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Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Winter Wall : Super High Tech Jetfighter (5.12d)
By: Dylan Colon When: Jan 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was unsure about whether the route moved left or right after the second bolt. I got shut down trying to move left and avoid all holds on Kelly's Arete. Is it allowed to use that flake that you use on Kelly's as an undercling before the crux and the other good holds around it (not the arete, obviously), or even the good pocket at the extreme top of the attached picture? Without them I feel like the crux comes after the second bolt for sure.
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Location: CO : Photo
By: Dylan Colon When: Dec 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The hike up there is worth it just to experience that color.
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Location: WI : Interstate State Park : Cave Boulders : The Midget Sit (V7)
By: Dylan Colon When: Dec 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does this start on the bulge that you do the drop down move of Cave Traverse on to? If so, are the start holds the same holds that most people have their hands on just after the drop down move of Cave Traverse, or am I completely wrong?
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Rainy Wednesday Tower : New Light Waves (5.12b) : Photo
By: Dylan Colon When: Dec 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've looked a this route a bunch of times and wanted to try it, but like so many others I've never gotten to it.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Tarantula (5.10b) : Photo
By: Dylan Colon When: Nov 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ah but the mantle on Gargantua is super fun! Or maybe I just like mantles. Ditto on the finish though, I came very close to flubbing the exit mantle while leading Gargantua and almost took a very exciting head over heals fall. Both routes are great though, and I've still got to get back and lead Tarantula.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff Central : ... : Oklobzija's Problem (V7+)
By: Dylan Colon When: Nov 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ok that name is pretty funny.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : East Rampart Bouldering
By: Dylan Colon When: Nov 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: How about east/west of the CCC trail for starters? The boulders from the Zipper east to Fat Pants including the stuff around the Guillotine seem to be a fairly tight group, and could be made as such. Similarly, I'd put Slab of Doom, Rampart Roof, and other problems in the talus below the cliffline and west of the CCC trail in their own group. I'm not sure what I'd do with stuff like Rail Gun or ObZen that are a little further down, it frankly seems hard to call this East Rampart. Maybe an al... more >>
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Misery/Cottage... : The Frigate : Code of the Sea (5.12a) : Photo
By: Dylan Colon When: Nov 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is how I did it. Super fun mantle.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff Central : ... : Yo Shorty (V6)
By: Dylan Colon When: Oct 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The "2006," along with the other graffiti on this boulder, has been cleaned off.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff Central : ... : can we cane em. (V4)
By: Dylan Colon When: Oct 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: All of the graffiti on this boulder was removed as part of the clean up session last weekend.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Misery/Cottage... : The Frigate : Code of the Sea (5.12a)
By: Dylan Colon When: Sep 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Also, does anyone know if this has ever been led?
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Misery/Cottage... : The Frigate : Code of the Sea (5.12a)
By: Dylan Colon When: Sep 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm going to have to agree with Alex on this being quite a bit harder than 5.12a, at least the way I did it (or did I do "Pooper varition, 5.12c/d"). I started as for Pooper and went straight up instead of doing the thin traverse right you do on Pooper. I went pretty much straight up from there and finished about 4-5 feet left of the chimney on the ledge level with and only a few inches right of the mini-roof under the summit block. I felt like the crux was the absolute last move to the top.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Potholes Area : Devils Doorway : Impossible Crack (5.8) : Photo
By: Dylan Colon When: Sep 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Apparently I will never live this down.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff Central : ... : Storm Troopers Right (V9)
By: Dylan Colon When: Sep 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Any history behind the name "Baraboo Sex Pit?"
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Has Been (5.10c) : Photo
By: Dylan Colon When: Sep 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ok I feel better now. I'd feel really dumb if I'd missed something that could have prevented the sketch factor getting to the horizontal. I did get a yellow C3 in the two-finger pocket that's pretty much where you're standing here, but it was pretty shallow and I didn't feel like testing it (as in the though of testing it terrified me).
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : New Sandstone Area
By: Dylan Colon When: Sep 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd be game for trying to find out who we need to talk to in order to officially open this place. I think a small group of very respectful and well-informed climbers could make a pretty good case that there really isn't any good reason for this place to stay closed, especially in light of the fact that it is such a small area relative to the main use areas for climbing and there are only a few hard routes.
In the long run, after an initial rush if it was opened, I'd expect that this area wou... more >>
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Has Been (5.10c) : Photo
By: Dylan Colon When: Sep 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rhoads what is that thing by your feet? I lead this today (headpoint) and didn't find anything I liked until the horizontal just below the cobble after the good horizontal below the crux. I'm just hoping I didn't miss something bomber and needlessly run the shit out of that climb.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Hawk's Nest : Alpha Centauri (5.10d)
By: Dylan Colon When: Aug 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Out of curiosity, Andy, after the pin did you go right and join Vivisection's upper seam or move left into that crack system? When I did it I went left (much easier), but not before getting good gear at the bottom of the right seam.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Far West End : Balanced Rock Wall : Watermarks Direct (5.10a) : Photo
By: Dylan Colon When: Aug 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tom Mulholland found a quite good #3 brassie placement in the seam right by Remo's left foot in this picture, makes that hard move to the first jug quite a bit less scary.
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