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Member Since: Jun 24, 2011
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Dwight Jugornot


Point Rank: # 4,540
Total Points: 88
Last Year: 43
Last 30 Days: 0
39 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Dwight Jugornot been climbing?










Contributions


All 264 | Routes | Areas | Photos 8 | Page Improvements | Comments 48 | Posts 2 | Stars 158 | Ratings 48
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Casual Route (5.10a)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Jul 26, 2014

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Comments: Truly amazing route.
A little (more) rap info - 2 raps are hard to find: 3rd anchor (bottom of 2nd rap) on D7 is 20 plus feet right of plumb, and you will be climbing a bit sideways to get to it (150 ft.). 2nd rap on Crack of Delight is an exact color match for the rock (tan/buff) and is on the very obvious, large ledge right of plumb at around 80?ft.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Global Gorilla (5.12c)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Apr 10, 2014

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Comments: An 80m rope came up about 15 ft. short when linking all 3 pitches. It can be done with a little down-climbing. After cleaning all draws and lowering off of the anchor, it was just about long enough. 80m 9.4 rope.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Mar 6, 2014

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Comments: As of about 3/1/14 the roads are in worse shape. The last section of road up to the saddle from the hackberry creek drainage is about the same, but now the road down the switchbacks is nearly as bad. About 1.5 inches of rain around the 1st worsened the damage caused by the big fall of '13 storms. We made it in and out with a stock Tacoma, but I had to lock the diffy. On the plus side, zero crowds...


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winterfest Wall : The Dissolution (5.11c/d)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Jan 4, 2014

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Comments: This route can be done completely- without any stemming. The first bolt seems wise to stick-clip. First crux is bouldery when not stemmed, second crux is athletic and balancy, third crux is a very awkward strength move, fourth crux is super crimpy and foot dependent.
All four cruxes seem mid 11-ish. Four quality cruxes? 3 stars! I would give it 4 if it were longer.
I would say 11d for a tall person. Maybe 12a for someone with less reach?


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Eagletail Mountains : Eagletail Peak- Eagle Feath... : Eagle Feather Spires (5.8)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Dec 18, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this about a year ago. Approach is about 4 hours, climb is about 1 hr., deproach is about 3 hrs. The summit is spectacular, the climb is fun but- has plenty of rotten rock (endemic in this area).
You WILL have the entire summit to yourself.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Athlete's Feat (5.11a)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Nov 16, 2013

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Comments: Few routes deliver such sustained and varied climbing at the grade. Pitch 4 was the easiest for me on account of I have reasonable balance, and pitch 1 was sorta easy (but my solution was very height-dependent). Pitch 2 and 4 were just ass kickers - because I kinda suck at picking the right pro while pumped and reaching around a semi-blind corner! Best skill for the send is gonna be efficient pro placement (and choice), 'cause the moves are sustained. What a blast!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Storming the Castle (5.11)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Nov 16, 2013

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Comments: What a great route. Excellent face moves down low and then a superb balancy crux to arÍte climbing. A worthy addition! You could top rope it, but...why? Leading this route will put a smile on your face!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Cobra
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: Get on that sucker before it falls down-goes boom. A cam or two down low might prevent a decker thus easing the R. Responds well to technique and ability to read rock. Thanks Todd!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : F**k You (5.11c)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: Great variety and fun moves. I felt the crux was higher. Traversing out past the chalky, sloping pillar on the final face. Took an excellent whip here! Getting out of the low dihedral at bolt 3 is easy but reach-dependent.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Kate Moss (5.10b/c)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: There is very little moss on this route. It has cleaned up well. Very consistent climbing with almost no gimmies.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : The Good, The Bad, and The ... (5.12a)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: I agree, one of the best at the grade. Powerful and sustained crux.
Technique pays huge dividends here as well as spotting a key rest. This would be a stout onsight. That's theory, of course.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Culp-Bossier (5.8+)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Aug 6, 2013

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Comments: First of all, 4 stars! A real work out with plenty of climbing at the grade. Felt 5.8+ to me. Craaaaazy cool line - 8 pitches right up the nose of a huge buttress, surrounded by the heart of the park. Approach took us 2 hrs. The trail is asphalt all the way to Emerald Lake, then you boulder hop for 1/2 mile gaining maybe 700 ft. of vertical? Path is dispersed and partial thru the boulders.

P1 is the easiest pitch on the route, good pro. The left leaning-right facing dihedral is really low ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Golden Rose (5.12a)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: Big Tuna and this one were bullet-hard granite. No choss, solid stuff. Golden Rose offered deep hard pull to a slopey clip hold then balancy lateral move with a toe hook. 5.fun!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Twilight Zone : Execution (5.11)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: May 25, 2013

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Comments: Yes, variety in abundance. Nice bolting, several 11 cruxes. I found the route to be clean and quality. Kirk, you really have an eye for the line! It ain't over till it's over.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Impeachment Day Parade (5.11d)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: May 13, 2013

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Comments: Finally! This was the hardest 11 for me to send. The upper roof crux is very technique-dependent, the lower crux is quite physical. I have seen at least 3 completely different solutions for the upper crux, none are easy. Either roof would make a great route. Two together - 4 stars, baby!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Solid Gold (5.12a)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: May 8, 2013

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Comments: The first 3 pitches are a nice warm-up, and then both upper pitches are great. Excellent exposure, strong moves. The slab above seemed 10-ish. Picked up a tick on the approach. Found zero loose stuff.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Joh... (5.12a)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Apr 29, 2013

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Comments: Blocky roof moves on thin-ish hands, underclings, crimps, layback to mantel, stemming, balancy footwork, step-through. In short, variety galore. Lotsa 11 moves and one gen-u-ine 12a crux. Awesome climbing and well bolted.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : The Fabulous Flying Carrs R... (5.11a)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: There really are two radically different routes here. Stay to the right (still out on the face, not in the gully) and it is an unremarkable 5.9 or so. If you stay on the face left and center, it is a quality 5.11a/b. I don't normally give stars to a "contrived" route, but the moves on the face out left are really cool. Body position, strength, technicality - good stuff.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Fandango (5.5)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Apr 10, 2013

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Comments: I give Fandango 4 stars, BUT... then I'm takin' back 2 stars on account of the endless ridge traverse. Be aware your second will have to effectively "lead" much of this pitch and a half. Exposure is not horrible, but it is worth staying roped. At some points, your second must climb down into slack for about 15 feet. The moves there are maybe 5.3-ish? with lots of exposure below.

The sandwiches, however, were peerless.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Glitter Box Area : Adios Larry (5.10b PG13)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Feb 10, 2013

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Comments: Nice route, but there is about a 20ft. run-out over 10-ish climbing. That puts the fall at 40 plus rope stretch maybe 50 ft. Placing you in range of plenty of objective hazards. having said that, it was a great climb at or near the grade for a very long distance. Great as an endurance pitch. Not a good lead for the new to 10's climber. There is likely pro in the run-out, but your gonna be pumped by the time you get there, eh?


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Hackberry Creek : Aint Nothing but a Thing (5.8)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Feb 10, 2013

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Comments: Tougher than "Toad". Good pro the whole way with some strenuous placements. Looooooong and sustained at the grade. No really hard parts, just endurance. I did not use any of the bolts. As with "Thing, I rapped to ground completely with a Blue Water 70m.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Hackberry Creek : Smokin' The Toad (5.8)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Feb 10, 2013

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Comments: Good pro between bolts. Easier than "Thing". Rapped to the ground with Blue Water 70 (with stretch, but yes to ground). Could be a great looooong top-rope!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : The Refuge : ... : L.S.D. (5.10-)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Feb 10, 2013

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Comments: Consistent, kinda easy for a 10. Also a nice warm up route.
Nice bolting.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : The Refuge : ... : Spice (5.8)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Feb 10, 2013

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Comments: Nice moderate sustained route. Great warm-up. It seems to have cleaned up nicely.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : The Refuge : ... : Live and Let Dyno (5.12)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Feb 10, 2013

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Comments: definitely not a 10+. requires technique and strength. having said that there are just a couple of tough moves. The rest of the route is really good as well, just not as tough. Can be hung as top rope from the summit for those of us who are feelin' puny. I did!


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