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Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Impeachment Day Parade (5.11d)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: May 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Finally! This was the hardest 11 for me to send. The upper roof crux is very technique-dependent, the lower crux is quite physical. I have seen at least 3 completely different solutions for the upper crux, none are easy. Either roof would make a great route. Two together - 4 stars, baby!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Solid Gold (5.12a)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: May 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first 3 pitches are a nice warm-up, and then both upper pitches are great. Excellent exposure, strong moves. The slab above seemed 10-ish. Picked up a tick on the approach. Found zero loose stuff.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Joh... (5.12a)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Apr 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Blocky roof moves on thin-ish hands, underclings, crimps, layback to mantel, stemming, balancy footwork, step-through. In short, variety galore. Lotsa 11 moves and one gen-u-ine 12a crux. Awesome climbing and well bolted.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : The Fabulous Flying Carrs R... (5.11a)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: There really are two radically different routes here. Stay to the right (still out on the face, not in the gully) and it is an unremarkable 5.9 or so. If you stay on the face left and center, it is a quality 5.11a/b. I don't normally give stars to a "contrived" route, but the moves on the face out left are really cool. Body position, strength, technicality - good stuff.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Fandango (5.5)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Apr 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I give Fandango 4 stars, BUT... then I'm takin' back 2 stars on account of the endless ridge traverse. Be aware your second will have to effectively "lead" much of this pitch and a half. Exposure is not horrible, but it is worth staying roped. At some points, your second must climb down into slack for about 15 feet. The moves there are maybe 5.3-ish? with lots of exposure below.
The sandwiches, however, were peerless.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Glitter Box Area : Adios Larry (5.10b PG13)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Feb 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice route, but there is about a 20ft. run-out over 10-ish climbing. That puts the fall at 40 plus rope stretch maybe 50 ft. Placing you in range of plenty of objective hazards. having said that, it was a great climb at or near the grade for a very long distance. Great as an endurance pitch. Not a good lead for the new to 10's climber. There is likely pro in the run-out, but your gonna be pumped by the time you get there, eh?
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Hackberry Creek : Aint Nothing but a Thing (5.8)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Feb 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tougher than "Toad". Good pro the whole way with some strenuous placements. Looooooong and sustained at the grade. No really hard parts, just endurance. I did not use any of the bolts. As with "Thing, I rapped to ground completely with a Blue Water 70m.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Hackberry Creek : Smokin' The Toad (5.8)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Feb 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good pro between bolts. Easier than "Thing". Rapped to the ground with Blue Water 70 (with stretch, but yes to ground). Could be a great looooong top-rope!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : The Refuge : ... : L.S.D. (5.10-)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Feb 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Consistent, kinda easy for a 10. Also a nice warm up route.
Nice bolting.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : The Refuge : ... : Spice (5.8)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Feb 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice moderate sustained route. Great warm-up. It seems to have cleaned up nicely.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : The Refuge : ... : Live and Let Dyno (5.12)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Feb 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: definitely not a 10+. requires technique and strength. having said that there are just a couple of tough moves. The rest of the route is really good as well, just not as tough. Can be hung as top rope from the summit for those of us who are feelin' puny. I did!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : The Refuge : ... : Torchraker (5.10b)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Feb 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not very often you find such amazing exposure in a really quite moderate route.
Must do for The Torch.
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Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Open Space Cowboy (5.12a)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Dec 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent route. Two 12 cruxes. I'm gonna say 12a/b for BoCan. Well protected, such a teacher!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Sep 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: 9-29-12 found a belay device today.
Describe it and it's yours.
Dwight
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Sep 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: 4 stars, 3 of which are garnered by the summit. No need to aid the bolt ladders, the moves are all there and well protected. There is now another bolt where the female climber whipped and helicoptered , thus it is quite well protected now.
If you hear a buzzing/crackling sound near the top bail immediately as you are about to get struck by lightning. I felt sparks arcing off of my shoulders and forearms. This thing is an antenna. Never saw any lightning, but it musta been close. Only very... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Sep 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oh gawd... another gear opinion, really?
TAKE THE #5. Everytime I placed the #4 it was seriously tipped-out.
I would actually rather have the #5 than the #4. P3 was tougher than p2 onnacounta it was super (40 ft.) runout. Good route for the historic value, and pushy moves. This route is an old-school baddass nine, and no pro for 40 ft. on p3. I gave it an "R". I am all done crying now.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Sharkstooth : Northeast Ridge (5.6)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Aug 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: You must do this climb. Once. The approach via vast boulderfields of dishwashers and microwaves will keep you from going back, but ... the actual climb was just about everything you could ask from alpine. Exposed, altitude, length, and great scenery. Real moves for a 5.6. The huge bivy boulder is past the last trees - past the first smooth, partial, cliff band by 100 yds or so, and there is water near it. Route-finding was easy, pro was good. This thing was designed to be climbed.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Trailhead Wall : Squid Kid (5.10a)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Jul 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rex is right. Finest sport .10a in Colorado. So many surprises and techniqie moves. Ya just don't expect to find this level of wow in a .10.
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Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Golden Gate (5.11d)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Jun 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just plain burly from the headwall on to the top. Really fairly straightforward, just physical.
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Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Howdy Doody Time (5.11b)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Jun 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really good variety. Clipping from a heel hook? Fabulous!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Nervous in Suburbia (5.10a)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Mar 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yep, that first clip would be ankle damage if you fell. I woulda stick-clipped it if it was much tougher. Very balancy. Felt tougher than10a to me. If it had a couple more bolts, then 10a would be about right. Great route just for the balance it requires.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Glitter Box Area : Eyes of the World (5.11a PG13)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Mar 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: My favorite route in The Glitter Box area. Sustained at the grade. The crux is really just the over-all length of the thing. Sheesh. The anchors are waaaay around up and to the right. Getting to the anchors was the PG-13 part.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : The Totem Pole (5.10c/d)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Mar 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a blast. The summit, the view. Just about perfect. Did it as one pitch on my 70. and one rap to ground no problem. For me the crux below the first belay felt 10d? The top crux felt 10-. Plenty of places for pro above the last bolt.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winter Warmer Area : F.A.T.A.L. (5.10a)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Feb 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crazy wide stem out at the edge makes it a heady lead. I thought it was more like 11 minus out at the edge partly due to the physicality of moving up in a huge stem stance and partly due to the aforementioned heady lead. There are plenty of easier 11s at NTM than this route. Having said that, I think the difficulty depends on where in the dihedral you climb, eh?
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