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Psyched to finally top out on Half Dome.  Photo by...


Member Since: Mar 28, 2009
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Dustin Clelen

Point Rank: # 517
Total Points: 1,303
Last Year: 454
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Dustin Clelen been climbing?










Contributions


All 655 | Routes 32 | Areas 9 | Photos 164 | Page Improvements | Comments 28 | Posts 6 | Stars 379 | Ratings 37
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Bubble : Cold Sweat (5.11b)
By: Dustin Clelen When: Jun 3, 2015

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Comments: Anyone have any updated beta for this one? The pin is still good as of 6/2/15. At 11b (Haas calls it 11c in his guidebook), this climb would normally be well within my ability, but I was completely shut down by the upper crux. Any secret holds I'm missing up there? I'm almost wondering if some footholds have broken off or something.


Location: International : Europe : Croatia : Hvar Island
By: Dustin Clelen When: Jun 1, 2015

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Comments: The drive from the town of Hvar to the climbing at CliffBase can take an hour if you stick to paved roads, or about 45 minutes if you take the dirt road that goes from the south (Hvar town) side of the tunnel directly to Sveta Nedilja (the town next to CliffBase). The dirt road is well-traveled, well-maintained, easy to pass other cars on, and was fine for our rented passenger car.


Location: International : Europe : Croatia : Hvar Island : Cliffbase
By: Dustin Clelen When: Jun 1, 2015

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Comments: The Croatia guidebook by Boris Cujic also has comprehensive information on the climbs at CliffBase.


Location: International : Europe : Croatia : National Park of Paklenica : Klanci : Photo
By: Dustin Clelen When: Jun 1, 2015

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Comments: This could be a midweek crowd as well - I saw a similar amount of people on a Wednesday during a wind storm. Don't let it deter you though. The crowd concentration thins dramatically outside this one area.


Location: International : North America : Puerto Rico : Caliche (Ciales, PR)
By: Dustin Clelen When: Mar 13, 2014

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Comments: To expand a bit on the directions - go to the town of Ciales. Once you're in town, head toward the (now closed) Juan Jose Jimenez bridge on road 6685 (a right turn out of town just after you cross the bridge over the river). As you drive along this road you'll notice the rocks to your left a few hundred feet above the road. There is a small neighborhood beneath the rocks. Turn onto the road that seems to lead to the base of the rocks (and into this neighborhood). Stay on the main road in th... more >>


Location: International : North America : Puerto Rico : Nuevo Bayamón (US » Puerto ... : Pasillo : No Refund (5.8)
By: Dustin Clelen When: Mar 12, 2014

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Comments: This climb is a ton of fun, but it was a bit dirty when I got on it, especially at the bottom. The guide mentions that it is 5.8 'as long as you can find the big holds,' which I found to be absolutely true, so the onsight felt harder to me. Totally worth it, totally fun.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Mismatched Partners (5.10b/c)
By: Dustin Clelen When: Jan 7, 2013

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Comments: Consider this post a "like" of the two posts above. Weird, poorly protected climbing on chossy rock (up high) with no anchor except for a dead juniper. There are much better routes at Shelf at this grade.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall : Gneiss Roof (AKA: Nice Ride... (5.9+)
By: Dustin Clelen When: Dec 4, 2012

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Comments: This route is awesome. That being said, I've talked to several aspiring trad leaders who are enticed by the relatively easy grade and the fact that the 4th pitch of "Nice Ride" has mixed protection. Though it is an amazing climb, I do not recommend it as a practice lead because there are a couple of (what I consider to be) no-fall zones. In my opinion, the first three pitches are bolted just fine (though I did place a #0.5 Camalot in the middle of the traverse, you don't necessarily have... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Center Route (5.9+) : Photo
By: Dustin Clelen When: Aug 12, 2012

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Comments: Thanks, Brendan!


Location: CO : Leadville : Camp Hale : Warrior's Wall : They Call Me Mr. Grease (5.10c)
By: Dustin Clelen When: Jul 4, 2012

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Comments: According to Tom Perkins' guidebook, the first ascentionist was D. Ranck ("Arkansas Valley Climbing" by Tom Perkins).


Location: Chris I : Popping the trad cherry... : Photo
By: Dustin Clelen When: May 8, 2012

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Comments: Hell yeah! What's the route? Bummed we missed you two on our sprint through the Valley...


Location: C Miller : Joshua Tree National Park : Photo
By: Dustin Clelen When: Apr 29, 2012

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Comments: Agreed. They need a Boulder branch.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Hole in the Wall (5.11-)
By: Dustin Clelen When: Apr 15, 2012

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Comments: Wilcox510, Ditto...and I like offwidths and have normal sized hands. I didn't puke, but was certainly in the mood once or twice. This sucker is great for building character, but not for a fun cruise.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Cloud Tower (5.12-) : Photo
By: Dustin Clelen When: Nov 20, 2011

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Comments: Great pic! I love the perspective, and have to admit that it throws the "Tower" part of the name into even more confusion for me. When we climbed it, we were looking for the top of a tower, kept going up, and ended up rapping down that HUGE (and blank) face to the right of the crack. Word to the wise: Cloud 'Tower' ends the way many cracks at Indian Creek do - in the middle of a crack when the good climbing stops.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Long Wall : The Gift (5.12a)
By: Dustin Clelen When: Nov 3, 2011

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Comments: As of October, 2011, the bolts on this puppy are in fine shape. The first one is a drilled angle that's sticking out a good inch or so, but it's solid (similar to a lot of anchors in Zion, but with rock that's way more solid). I can't quite remember, but I think it may even be glued in place. The only slightly runout section is where the slab stops and the headwall starts. It's not bad though, deadpoints (for me) to progressively bigger jugs.

Bottom line: DO IT!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : Sinestra (5.11)
By: Dustin Clelen When: Mar 23, 2010

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Comments: I found the above advice about saving a #2 camalot for protecting the final roof to be fan-friggin-tastic beta (no joke). A #1 might work as well if you're short on gear. Also, I used a .75 camalot to protect the traverse. You need to do a move above the little ledge to get it in there (and the rock isn't great) but it provides an appreciated feeling of security for doing that step-across. Put a long sling (or even a double) on it and the piece after, and the rope drag isn't bad ... more >>


Location: Sunny-D : Gear for Sale : Photo
By: Dustin Clelen When: Feb 26, 2010

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Comments: If this little guy is in good shape, I'll buy it. how much?


Location: Sunny-D : Gear for Sale : Photo
By: Dustin Clelen When: Feb 26, 2010

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Comments: If this thing is in good shape, I'll totally buy it. What size and how much?


Location: Sunny-D : Gear for Sale : Photo
By: Dustin Clelen When: Feb 26, 2010

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Comments: If these are still for sale and in good shape, I want all of them. How much?


Location: Sunny-D : Gear for Sale : Photo
By: Dustin Clelen When: Feb 26, 2010

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Comments: These still for sale? What size and how much?


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Southern Mexico : Pico de Orizaba : Photo
By: Dustin Clelen When: Feb 1, 2010

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Comments: Solid picture! I like those snow goggles, after the climb did you swim a few laps in the gulf with those things? (heh).


Location: WY : Cody : South Fork Shoshone (Ice) : Mean Green (WI5)
By: Dustin Clelen When: Jan 21, 2010

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Comments: Beta correction: The first pitch is not more than 60m - we did it on 1/19/10 with a 60m rope no problem.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Clear Creek Canyon - Ice : Little Eiger area - ice : Mickey's Big Mouth (WI2-3)
By: Dustin Clelen When: Jan 21, 2010

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Comments: Does anyone have any more information on the mixed route just left of the second pitch? It's pretty cool, and fairly well protected (bolts). Also great as a TR due to some conveniently placed bolts above. Any names or ratings?


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Clear Creek Canyon - Ice : Little Eiger area - ice : Mickey's Big Mouth (WI2-3) : Photo
By: Dustin Clelen When: Jan 21, 2010

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Comments: Is there any more information on this mixed route? It's pretty cool, and fairly well protected. Also great as a TR due to some conveniently placed bolts above. Any names or ratings?


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grottos Day Use Area : Gollum's Cave : Escher's Staircase (5.10b) : Photo
By: Dustin Clelen When: Dec 3, 2009

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Comments: I hate to be the guidebook police here, but I think this pic is actually of "My Preciousss" and not Escher's Staircase.

Edit: Whoops, guess I was wrong about that one...looks like a cool climb though.... Wait, if this is a pic of a route in Idaho, then why is it here?


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