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Member Since: Oct 24, 2011
Last Visit: 6 days ago
Contact dseltzer


Point Rank: # 2,102
Total Points: 277
Last Year: 166
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has dseltzer been climbing?










Contributions


All 704 | Routes 16 | Areas 3 | Photos 10 | Page Improvements | Comments 22 | Posts 12 | Stars 412 | Ratings 229

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Matthes Crest : Matthes Crest Traverse - So... (5.7)
By: dseltzer When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments: Fun route, simul-climbing all but the very start and the very end took us about 6.5 hours, but we were taking our time. Hike into echo lake area day one, climb day two, hike out day three for a nice relaxing backpack/climb.

If you're reading comments thinking about doing this route.. bring a new (small) notebook for the north summit box! As of 8/14/2014 there is no notebook and a bunch of loose pages quickly filling up.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Sea to Sky Corridor : ... : Star Chek (5.8+)
By: dseltzer When: Aug 6, 2014

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Comments: Both the first and the third pitch have four bolts, not three. When rapping the route, use the anchors to climbers left for the second rap, not the ones on the right near the arete which are used for the actual climb. If you have a 70m, you can avoid the last rap as well if you are careful about rope ends. From the second to last rap station, angle slightly left towards the trees and away from the arete. A 70m will just barely get you to the fixed rope along the bottom of the climb.

Fun cli... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kung Fu Theater : Miagi (5.9)
By: dseltzer When: May 26, 2014

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Comments: Fun route. Felt harder than 5.9 to transition to the right crack, although my partner is a better crack climber than me and said 5.9 was accurate. The Bryan Bird guide gives FA credit to Bryan Bird and Travis Tomlinson


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kung Fu Theater : Japanimation (5.10)
By: dseltzer When: May 26, 2014

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Comments: The start of this (the 'cave' mentioned in the supertopo guide book) is sandy and a bit hard, but the rest is really fun. Interesting crack/face climbing to a tough section before the last face with two bolts. We went right of the second bolt before the anchors, which seemed like easier climbing but might result in a bad swing if you fell on lead (the holds are huge... so unlikely if you are solid at 5.9 or so). It looked like you could go left of the last bolt as well, but it seemed harder t... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kung Fu Theater : Hong Kong Phooey (5.10-)
By: dseltzer When: May 26, 2014

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Comments: Getting to the first bolt is a bit thin if you can't reach the good ledge from the pedestal. Other than that, a really fun route on a nice face.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Hillbilly Rocks : Hillbilly Rock 1
By: dseltzer When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: The rightmost three routes on this wall are missing a hanger on the first bolt (they share the first couple bolts). It's probably a good idea to take an extra piece of pro for these until someone can replace the hanger. The bolt itself looks to be in OK condition, but depending on how long it's been exposed, it may need to be replaced.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : Milton Boulder : Undercling Problem (V3)
By: dseltzer When: Aug 7, 2013

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Comments: The pictures posted for this problem look like the standard route, which tops out high and uses the good undercling about 3/4 of the way up. It's a V1, I think. The undercling problem referenced in guidebooks is to the right and starts on two opposing sidepulls then uses the undercling about 8 feet up as referenced in the previous post (V3).


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Kentucky Fried Penguin
By: dseltzer When: Aug 22, 2012

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Comments: mile markers have changed... this wall is at 41.767893,-111.663656 on the left as you head out of logan.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : First Practice Wall : One-Eyed Rosie (5.11a)
By: dseltzer When: Aug 20, 2012

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Comments: Fun route, although a bit short to the first set of anchors. Highly recommend this if you can climb easy 5.11 You can setup a top-rope if you drag a second rope up The Lost Bolt (to the left) and set the first anchor of this one on the way back down.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Date Wall : Twitterpation (5.8)
By: dseltzer When: Aug 19, 2012

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Comments: Clipping the anchors was a bit awkward for me. Other than that , a good beginners lead as its easy and all clips are made from solid stances.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Date Wall : Hooked (5.10a)
By: dseltzer When: Aug 19, 2012

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Comments: 10a seems a bit high for this route. The crux is interesting, but its the only move on the problem above 5.8 or so. Just a bit more tricky than "Smitten" to the left, as the crux takes a bit more thinking.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Date Wall : NCMO (5.6)
By: dseltzer When: Aug 19, 2012

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Comments: An ok, but super short route. Stay left for more fun, or right for easier climbing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Isle of the Dead (5.10c)
By: dseltzer When: Nov 23, 2011

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Comments: I found this route fun if you stay on the bolt line (hard for a 5.10b I thought). My partner who went up right and stuck to the crack(probably a 5.9 or so) also enjoyed it... so maybe it's contrived, but it's fun either way.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Cornerstone : The Forgiven (5.10)
By: dseltzer When: Nov 22, 2011

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Comments: An OK route, I went with a taller friend and he found it more enjoyable than me, so maybe a bit better if you have a long reach. The bush is really awkward, as you have to climb through it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Sea Breeze (5.11)
By: dseltzer When: Nov 7, 2011

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Comments: Seemed a bit hard for 11a, but a fun route with the hard parts well protected. Gets a lot easier but a bit runout at the top.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : Buried Treasure (5.9)
By: dseltzer When: Nov 1, 2011

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Comments: Good route. First pitch is a solid 5.9 with the second quite a bit easier. A great first multi-pitch, or just a fun climb for the more experienced. I for one am glad that it's bolted. I took a less experienced friend on his first multi pitch, and was glad to be able to just climb a moderate sport route with him his first time. It's nice to have a few of these longer sport routes in the canyon to teach or just have fun on. Leave the bolts up!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Brand New Bosch (5.9)
By: dseltzer When: Oct 28, 2011

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Comments: Fun route, but beware the loose rock to the right as you climb over the last overhang to the anchors (to the right of the last bolt). Also a large loose block right below the last bolt.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Edges and Ledges (5.8)
By: dseltzer When: Oct 28, 2011

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Comments: This is a great fall climb, as well as the 5.9 to the left. Stays free of snow for the most part and gets good sun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dinosaur Rock : Big Bob Cranks (5.9+)
By: dseltzer When: Oct 24, 2011

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Comments: An OK crag, to access we hiked Mallory Cave then cut left above Dinosaur Rock. A bit of a scramble down the gully, but manageable. We climbed this to set up a top rope for Tracks are for Kids.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Infestation (5.9)
By: dseltzer When: Oct 24, 2011

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Comments: Hard first move or two, then 5.6-7 or so climbing the rest of the way.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Solaris : Don't Get Me Started (5.6)
By: dseltzer When: Oct 24, 2011

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Comments: Brought some friends up to Solaris who have never climbed outside before, and they really enjoyed this. It was a good confidence builder/first route for them. Probably not 5.6, maybe 5.5 or 5.4 except for one or two moves.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Chasing Sticks (5.9)
By: dseltzer When: Oct 24, 2011

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Comments: A fun route thats unfortunately just horribly bolted.