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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Hot Flyer (5.12a)
By: D's Nutz When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great route and well worth getting on. I agree the climb is solid for the grade. The chains seem to be very rusty at the top and may be ready for a change.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Once Upon a Time (5.11a)
By: D's Nutz When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The holds got thin after the large flake. I think the bolts were placed too far left. It seemed like I was holding on with my left and cross clipping with my right for the last 3-4 bolts. Fun climb though.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Staying Power (5.11c)
By: D's Nutz When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route! All of the holds are there but you may have to look for them. Can get pumpy if you don't keep moving. There are rests before and after the roof.
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Candy Apple Grey (5.10b)
By: D's Nutz When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't agree that this climb is any harder than a 10+ if you climb slab but...it is sharp and the holds are small. The only thing keeping this at a 10 is the pitch of the rock.
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : Rocket Man (5.11c)
By: D's Nutz When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crux comes at the start and end. May be nice to stick clip the first bolt. The 3rd bolt is high off the ledge and would result in a ground fall if you bounce off the ledge. Still a fun climb if you can keep your head. Some good pockets in the Rocket.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Alfa Chick (5.11d)
By: D's Nutz When: Sep 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was a deceptive climb. Lots of shifting your weight. Can be pumpy if your not sure of the moves.
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Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Pipeline Wall : Skylight Arete (5.8)
By: D's Nutz When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can get down with a 60m rope as long as you rap off the anchors from the 5.7 route on the left.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sherwood Forest : The Avenger (5.11a)
By: D's Nutz When: Jun 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We found this climb by counting two climbs right of Sheriff's Tariff (an obvious line up the white dyke). The second last bolt moves right of Tuckered and Fired then back left and shares the last bolt + anchors
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Location: CO : Buena Vista : Turtle Rocks : Knobs Up (5.11c)
By: D's Nutz When: May 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thought this was a well protected and fun climb, but the 11c rating felt more like a 10a. May be a good idea to place a piece of gear prior to the clipping first bolt.
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Location: CO : Buena Vista : Turtle Rocks : Saw Blade (5.11a)
By: D's Nutz When: May 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 5.11 section is missing one of the anchor bolts. You will need to lower off one bolt or walk off.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Fly Swatter (5.10c)
By: D's Nutz When: Apr 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree this route is awkward, the first bolt is high and tough to clip if you are short. Took a clean 12 footer from the 3rd bolt past the first. Any further would have put me on the ledge. I agree the 11a looks to be a better warm up. Does anyone know the name/rating of the climb to the right?
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Period Epic (5.9)
By: D's Nutz When: Feb 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The book says 5 bolts, but we only found 4 on the route and it didn't seem run out.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Melancholy Man (5.11b)
By: D's Nutz When: Jan 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is a one move wonder. Once over the roof continue up the bolts for a 5.9 grade. The rock above the roof is flaky and the rock above that is a bit dirty.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Hillbilly Rocks : Hillbilly Rock 1 : I'll be Dipped (5.10b)
By: D's Nutz When: Jan 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought all of these climbs were a bit strange. This climb seemed to be the most direct
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Rock Garden : Ligneous Embracer (5.9)
By: D's Nutz When: Sep 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't miss this climb! It's easy and fun if you can trust your feet. Well protected and gets afternoon shade on those hot days.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Recon (5.6)
By: D's Nutz When: Sep 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is easy but a great roof/crack to practice placing gear.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Reggae (5.8)
By: D's Nutz When: Sep 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was a sweet climb! Great solid pro placement before you reach the crux. Kind of a tight squeeze at the top behind the large flake/roof. I will most definitely go back and climb this one again.
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Location: CO : Buena Vista : Davis Face : Carter Classic (5.9)
By: D's Nutz When: Jul 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I recommend this climb to all. Although the climbing was easy it made you use different techniques. The roof at P2 was probably the hardest move and a bit balancy. I also think pitch 6 was a blast. Protection is scattered and long runners are encouraged. It would have been nice to leave our extra rope at the top of P1, but glad we hauled it to the top!
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Location: CO : Buena Vista : Davis Face
By: D's Nutz When: Jul 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: To get to the face take 371 to 375 and follow 375 for about 2.7 miles. Turn right onto 375a. Cross over 4 mile creek and keep left on the road. This road will veer away from the creek. Stay on this road for about 5 miles and always keep left at the forks in the road. The road will pass right in front of the face. Park where you wish and hike up about 20-30 minutes to the base of Davis face. I do not believe there is an established trail so wear good shoes. 375 is a dirt road with a lot u... more >>
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Cave Route (5.7)
By: D's Nutz When: Jun 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree the #4 is optional but you will need to run out about 15-17' before you place your first piece.
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Location: CO : Buena Vista : Elephant Rock : South Side Classic (5.7+)
By: D's Nutz When: Jun 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a mixture of about 4 bolts/pitons on the route. I didn't see any great locations to back up some of the older pitons on the route except for the first small crack visible from the ground.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab
By: D's Nutz When: May 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed there today and there were no "No Trespassing" signs or hillbillies with guns.
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Location: CO : Buena Vista : Elephant Rock : Curve of the Tusk (5.10b PG13)
By: D's Nutz When: May 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Two bolts at the bottom then run out to the anchors.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cash Wall : Forty Two and No Rinkhals (5.9+)
By: D's Nutz When: Mar 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great climb on quality rock. A bit short but allows for great stemming with lots of pockets. A great option for those busy Cactus Cliff days.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Chunky Monkey (5.10c/d)
By: D's Nutz When: Jan 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with the rating on this route. The start at the roof was tricky in certain spots, but if you try and figure out the moves before you start it is easier than it looks. The rest of the climb was a 5.9+/5.10 at best but just as much fun as the roof. The landing under the roof is soft and most of the rocks have been removed.
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