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Member Since: Jan 16, 2009
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 232
Total Points: 2,421
Last Year: 116
Last 30 Days: 47
9 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 556 | Routes 143 | Areas 31 | Photos 92 | Page Improvements | Comments 66 | Posts | Stars 179 | Ratings 45
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Picket Line (5.9-)
By: Dru When: May 13, 2015

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Comments: It's a totally separate climb, 5.7


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Fraser Valley Area : ... : The Declother (Right side i... (V0)
By: Dru When: Apr 26, 2015

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Comments: Not so bad with approach shoes, canvas jacket and canvas pants on.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : The North Walls
By: Dru When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: There was a large rockfall on April 19th 2015 from the top of Chilkoot Pass which destroyed the upper sections of routes from The Calling to Yukon Gold. Debris spread across the base and totally destroyed an area stretching from Parallel Passages to the Angels Crest trail. Best to avoid the whole area for now until things stabilize.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Parallel Passages (5.10b/c)
By: Dru When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: Debris from the slide on April 19th hit the bottom of Parallel Passages and also took out the approach to the climb. Best to stay away until things stabilize.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Angel's Crest (5.10b)
By: Dru When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: A series of major rockfalls came off the Zodiac Wall on April 19, 2015. The debris decimated an area of around 3 city blocks in extent near the base of North Gully, and this includes the approach to and the base of Angels Crest. Debris from the rockfall hit a party that was on the 3rd pitch of Angels Crest at the time. Given the devastation in the area and the potential for additional rockfall, avoiding the Angels Crest Trail and the boulders at the base is a good idea for now.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Yukon Gold (5.12d)
By: Dru When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: A series of rockfalls affected the upper Zodiac Wall on April 19, 2015. The 11a pitch above the White Pillar of Splendour appears to have fallen off and the finish to the route may now be unclimbable. Please avoid this area until further notice.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Chilkoot Pass (5.11+)
By: Dru When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: A major rockfall on April 19 destroyed the upper pitches of the route above where it diverges from the Calling. The route probably cannot be climbed at all now and the area should be avoided until things stabilize.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : The Calling (5.12-)
By: Dru When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: A major rockfall on April 19, 2015 damaged the upper pitches of this climb and several other routes to the right. The 10b and 12a pitches have been severely affected. The route should be avoided until further notice.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : The Swedish Touch (5.11a)
By: Dru When: Apr 16, 2015

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Comments: This route, along with the neighbouring Sunshine Chimney, is closed immediately until mid-June due to the presence of a pair of nesting ravens in the immediately adjacent Sunshine Chimney.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Sunshine Chimney (5.8)
By: Dru When: Apr 16, 2015

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Comments: This route is closed immediately up until mid-June as there are a pair of very protective ravens with eggs/young nesting in the chimney at the top!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Beware the friends of starc... (5.9)
By: Dru When: Mar 31, 2015

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Comments: The name is "Beware The Frieds of Starch"... not "Friends of". It's a Bill Kipper pun on the Ides of March.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Ridge Runner (5.8)
By: Dru When: Nov 20, 2014

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Comments: If you start to the right of the arete, you can get a couple RPs or micronuts in from the ledge before moving left around the arete. Then you get a good Tricam or TCU before the bolt. From there, three bolts to the top; sustained at the grade but no hard moves.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Sky Dancing (5.10c PG13)
By: Dru When: Nov 20, 2014

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Comments: The original start works up edges just right of the arete and steps back left just below the first bolt. It's super exposed but significantly easier than trying to climb up left of the arete to the bolt.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Orphan (5.9)
By: Dru When: Oct 7, 2014

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Comments: Aka "Minutia" (so-called in the 85 Campbell guide).
Classic 5.8, steep for the grade for Squamish.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Peasant's Route (5.10c)
By: Dru When: Aug 7, 2014

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Comments: geoff, this was not the first route in Squamish. North and South Gullies were the first two routes on the Chief (Feb. and April 58, a couple months in advance of Peasants)


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Fraser Valley Area : ... : Where in The World Is Carme... (5.9)
By: Dru When: Jun 9, 2014

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Comments: There's also a new continuation from the Crapo brothers which climbs out left above the last bolt of Carmen, following additional ledges, past two new bolts to a chain station. This avoids the 5.5 trad finish of Carmen, Skyfall and MITD and extends the good stuff a bit longer.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Fraser Valley Area : ... : Treefrog (5.8+ PG13)
By: Dru When: Apr 26, 2014

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Comments: Heads up - the tree at the top with the anchor chain is dead. It's pretty solid for now but it won't last forever.
There is now a two bolt anchor with rap chain about 10 feet right of the tree, on the ledge. It's still worthwhile to clip the chain around the tree as a directional for the second if belaying or lowering off the anchor.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Sea to Sky Corridor : ... : Photo
By: Dru When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: Actually the Cheakamus River. The Squamish is on the other side of the mountains to the west.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Fraser Valley Area : ... : Bootsauce (5.7)
By: Dru When: Aug 6, 2013

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Comments: Recleaned and extended by John, with a couple of bolt added. 5.6 to the first anchor (three bolts, also possible gear placements); the extension has a 5.9ish move near the upper anchor. Easy to continue up to TreeFrog from the upper anchor.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Fraser Valley Area : ... : Where in The World Is Carme... (5.9)
By: Dru When: Aug 6, 2013

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Comments: Variation - start up the first two or three meters of Crystal Ether and then traverse a right-leaning handcrack under the log to reach the ledge below the bolts, instead of taking the original start on the right up the flake. Done this way the pro is to the left of the climber all the way up and you never have to worry about a rope running under your legs as a potential backflip hazard as you pull the crux.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Canadian North Cascades
By: Dru When: Apr 13, 2013

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Comments: You mean either Slesse or Tomyhoi. If you can see a big flat glacier bench left of the summit, then Tomyhoi.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Canadian North Cascades : ... : Photo
By: Dru When: Apr 13, 2013

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Comments: It's Mount Blum, with Glacier Pk (or possible Rainier) behind.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Fraser Valley Area : ... : Bloody Finger (5.11a)
By: Dru When: Sep 30, 2012

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Comments: This climb has seen some scrubbing with two brand new bolts appearing near the arete about 4 feet right of the flake which used to be used to protect the opening moves. Possibly a squeezed in direct start or?


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo
By: Dru When: Aug 1, 2012

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Comments: Easier as a layback


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Rock On Direct (aka Hard On... (5.10c)
By: Dru When: Jul 31, 2012

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Comments: This route is called "Rock On Direct". FA Bob Milward and Bruce Kay July 1983. FFA Jack Lewis, Peter Hiltner and Valerie Rossner, same month and year.


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