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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Nuns : The Flying Nun (5.10a)
By: Drew Spaulding When: 1 hour ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Around 2008, I led the 1st pitch of The Flying Nun up to the obvious ledge below the large, right-facing, arching roof. Without any beta on the route, for the 2nd pitch, I chose to tackle the arching roof up and right. Challenging 5.10+ out the roof into one of the most awesome, obvious diagonalling thin hand cracks ever!(5.11a) A stunningly incredible pitch leading right to the summit of the north NUN. We saw the bolts out to the left but didn't figure straying from the obvious, natural line wo... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Bird's View Butte / Crow's ... : Luminous Being : ... : Photo
By: Drew Spaulding When: May 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: ...Doesn't look like you're on the top...
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Endless Wall : One Foot In The Grave (5.11a)
By: Drew Spaulding When: Apr 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: ...the block with the danger X on it is gone now....
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Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Railay West : ... : Photo
By: Drew Spaulding When: Mar 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: (1) The Red Line-5.11b
(2) Crystal Flame-5.10.c
(3) The Candlestick-5.10.d
(4) Thai Stick-5.10d
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Location: CO : Buena Vista : The Leaning Wall : Slabby Steps (5.8)
By: Drew Spaulding When: Mar 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rappel straight down over Leaning Seam, and hook the ropes to the left side of the large chicken head to stay mostly out of the tree....
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Location: CO : Buena Vista : The Leaning Wall : The Leaning Face (AKA Backs... (5.12a)
By: Drew Spaulding When: Mar 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Incredible edges up there....
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Santaquin Canyon : Santaquin Canyon Ice : Backoff (WI4) : Photo
By: Drew Spaulding When: Dec 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an incredible setting and an awesome climb! Well worth the hike! I really miss ice climbing in the Wasatch...
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Location: CO : 10 Mile Canyon : Sunshine Dome
By: Drew Spaulding When: Dec 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've climbed 7 different routes at the Sunshine Dome. There was a detailed description of this wall in the old Summit County climbing guide. I don't know all the specifics on 1st ascents and ascentionists, but I'll try to post the details that I know when I have more time.... Gotta put the baby down for a nap....
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Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : ... : Photo
By: Drew Spaulding When: Nov 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: (1)The Monitor
(2)The Praying Mantis
(3)Monkey See Monkey Do
(4)Snake Skin
(5)Frog's Hair
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork : Dost Mitra (5.11a/b) : Photo
By: Drew Spaulding When: Nov 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just left of center in this photo is a thin left-facing, left-leaning corner system. This is a route I spent 3 days solo aid climbing in April of 1995... "BELIEVE IT IF YOU NEED IT"-A3+ climbs 3 pitches(450') of thin aid up this obvious system. The 1st pitch had over 20+ hook placements and only 7 pieces of gear in 140'. I hope to return someday to finish this line to the top of the PARIAH POINT..........
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Eat or be Eaten aka Super S... (5.10c)
By: Drew Spaulding When: Oct 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: On October 3, 2012, I led (belayed by Dan Hackett) the "improbable feature" to the left of "Eat Or Be Eaten".... We don't know if anyone has done this line before, but it is well worth the effort!! Climb the 5.6 corner to start, then keeping left at its top to gain the broken ledge at the base of "Kor Direct". Start up the "Kor Direct", instead of trending left to black rock, continue up and right to the obvious, 2" crack that disappears up into the clean face.(I've up climbed this way and tra... more >>
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock
By: Drew Spaulding When: Sep 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: With the help of multiple friends, since 2006, we've established 30 new pitches on MONITOR ROCK so far. Notably, six new 3-pitch routes have been added to the already plethora of climbs. Nearly all new pitches require some natural gear placements... I will soon be posting some of the latest works....
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Summit Dome
By: Drew Spaulding When: Sep 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: In September of 2011, Justin Day and I added 2 more routes up on the SUMMIT DOME. UTTERLY THIN, 5.12?, climbs the cracks, seams and face features between SEAMS... and WAVES.... And then, to right of WAVES... PERFECT WEATHER, 5.10a, climbs the obvious crack that disappears then steps up and right to the next crack to finish.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Summit Dome : Photo
By: Drew Spaulding When: Sep 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: In September of 2011, Justin Day and I added 2 more routes up on the SUMMIT DOME. UTTERLY THIN, 5.12?, climbs the cracks, seams and face features between SEAMS... and WAVES.... Then to right of WAVES... PERFECT WEATHER, 5.10a, climbs the obvious crack that disappears then steps up and right to the next crack to finish.
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Location: CO : The Weston Wall
By: Drew Spaulding When: Jul 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, Dougald! I've also seen the falcons on the upper left side... I haven't talked to many people that have found these routes.... Great to hear you enjoyed! I had a lot of fun putting these pitches up, mostly solo...(close to my house and lack of partners in the area). Have fun!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Fourth Buttress : Unknown Mixed Route aka The... (5.10d)
By: Drew Spaulding When: May 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this pitch is 5.11a past the 2 bolts and up through the final roof before easing off. Climb up and right to the nice ledge at the base of the green lichened pillar above.... I think this pitch is more like 5.10b. Climb up the right-leaning, thin hand crack and step left up under the roof. A small cam (1/4") protects the exciting face moves on huge jugs to gain the continuing crack above. We call this THE GREEN GARGOYLE - 2 pitches, 5.11a, 5.10b.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Trailhead Wall : Pirate Mode (5.10c)
By: Drew Spaulding When: Nov 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The line out right of Pirate Mode is Momentary Lapse of Reason! 2-pitch 5.11a....
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Location: CO : 10 Mile Canyon : The Diamond Wall
By: Drew Spaulding When: Nov 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This new route on the left is called "Cosmic Charlie" 5.11a (...in memory of Charlie Dorfeld...). We added this pitch in August in hopes it would be an independent line... there were some loose spots which required banging and prying, but it's climbing fairly clean now. We wanted it to stay out left of "Lucy" but didn't find holds staying left... so, "Cosmic Charlie" joins "Lucy" just below the crux (5.11a). "C. C." then finishes out left past 2 bolts through the roof, Lucy finishes straight up... more >>
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Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : ... : Photo
By: Drew Spaulding When: Mar 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: 1-The Monitor
2-The Praying Mantis
3-Monkey See Monkey do
4-Snake Skin
5-Frog's Hair
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Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : Golden Ball, The
By: Drew Spaulding When: Mar 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This area above The Nest was really originally named THE GOLDEN BOWL. Named for the concave, overhanging wall with beautiful golden rock. NOT the Golden Ball.....
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Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : ... : Catch A Fire (5.12a)
By: Drew Spaulding When: Feb 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: In 2005, Justin Day and I established the 2nd and 3rd pitches of Catch A Fire. They are well protected, bolted with Titanium, and are a super fun extension to this already classic 1st pitch. Pitch 2 climbs straight up through the overhanging chimney looking feature-5.10b,70ft. And the 3rd pitch, 5.11a,80ft climbs out the dramatic cave above the cool hangout belay ledge(Great Views!!!). This is one of the many multi-pitch classic routes of TonSai!!!. Roots Rock, Reggae and Catch A fire are great ... more >>
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Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : ... : Photo
By: Drew Spaulding When: Feb 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Incredible 1st pitch!!
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Location: CO : Buena Vista : The Leaning Wall : Photo
By: Drew Spaulding When: Jun 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: (8)The Leaning Corner-5.11b
(9)The Leaning Flake-5.10c
(10)The Leaning Crack-5.10d/11a
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Trailhead Wall : Pirate Mode (5.10c) : Photo
By: Drew Spaulding When: Jun 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Mother Load is the black dotted line...
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Trailhead Wall : The Other Road (5.11a) : Photo
By: Drew Spaulding When: Jun 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The black dotted line is the Mother Load....
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