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BETA: For me, crux move was sticking the move to the flake above these crimps


Member Since: Jun 27, 2012
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact Drew Nevius


Point Rank: # 1,495
Total Points: 386
Last Year: 163
Last 30 Days: 2
2 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
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Contributions


All (347) | Routes (13) | Areas (1) | Photos (41) | Comments (36) | Posts (22) | Stars (137) | Ratings (97)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: OK : Avery Drive ( Tulsa ) : Lost City : Starry Gift (5.9+)
By: Drew Nevius When: 5 days ago

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Comments: This route could be more of a mid 5.10. Hopefully more people will get on it soon so we can have a consensus - right now, I don't know of anyone else that has led it yet.

This route now has clevis hooks on the anchor for lowering. If you're going to toprope, use your own quickdraws


Location: AR : Mt.Hudson
By: Drew Nevius When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: I've usually heard this area referred to as "Hudson Mountain". Going into Cowell, turn right on 1204B which is marked by a small, brown plastic marker and often a bra hanging in the tree above it. It's before the left turn on 1204C for Invasion. Great crag!


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Crab Eyes : Crab Eyes Bouldering : The Oklahoma Panhandler (V6)
By: Drew Nevius When: Mar 19, 2014

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Comments: I'll second what Brad said - this is the coolest boulder problem I've seen in the Refuge!


Location: OK : Chandler Park : Photo
By: Drew Nevius When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: Anyone know where this crack is at?


Location: OK : Sand Springs : Tulsa Reality (5.10a)
By: Drew Nevius When: Jan 5, 2014

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Comments: I just toproped this one, but I'd say it's more around 5.9-. Crack was fairly dirty, but it may clean up with time. Rock quality of the roof was surprisingly good (well, good enough). Mantling the ledge after pulling the roof was pretty fun. BETA: I used the crack as a sidepull on the way up to the roof and then used just one right hand jam to reach over the roof to the jug ledge and topout.


Location: OK : Sand Springs
By: Drew Nevius When: Jan 5, 2014

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Comments: The original GPS coordinates are too far west down the road. The wall is closer to 36 8'45.34"N 96 9'8.87"W. We parked at the big paved pullout on the north side of the road. A steep hike straight uphill from the parking leads to some good looking bouldering on the left. Continue uphill to the cliffband. Walk the cliffband about 250 yards right to find Tulsa Reality


Location: OKClimber : Red Rocks of Nevada : Photo
By: Drew Nevius When: Dec 14, 2013

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Comments: Great pic! Route?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : You Are What You Eat (5.4)
By: Drew Nevius When: Dec 9, 2013

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Comments: Gear sizes needed?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Riding Hood Wall : Physical Graffiti (5.6) : Photo
By: Drew Nevius When: Dec 8, 2013

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Comments: Why? Because rapping off the end of the rope is one of more prominent causes of death in climbing and it's easily avoidable


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Steak Dinner Area : Area 600 Yards Northeast (u... : Photo
By: Drew Nevius When: Dec 3, 2013

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Comments: Great beta photo - I'll have to check those boulders out sometime


Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : Roman Wall : Maximus (5.12a)
By: Drew Nevius When: May 5, 2013

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Comments: Incredible exposure on this route!!! I tried it at the end of the day and only got through 4-5 of the 6 fixed bolts. I hope to try this one fresh next time.


Location: OK : Avery Drive ( Tulsa ) : Lost City : The Dirty Persian (5.8)
By: Drew Nevius When: Apr 24, 2013

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Comments: Looks chossy down low!


Location: OK : Avery Drive ( Tulsa ) : Lost City : Grade Expectations (5.11a)
By: Drew Nevius When: Apr 24, 2013

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Comments: Did you just bolt this? I don't remember seeing this route last time I was there. It looks blank!


Location: OK : Chandler Park : Photo
By: Drew Nevius When: Feb 7, 2013

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Comments: Ordeal? Still a hard problem!


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Elk Slabs : Buns Up (5.8+)
By: Drew Nevius When: Dec 19, 2012

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Comments: We used a 3.5 and 4.5 camalot (basically a #4 and a #5). Even after pulling the lip, I had trouble finding anywhere to place the #3 I took with me until 25ft past the top of the laybacking section. I wouldn't suggest leading this unless you have a #5 and maybe even a #6. Also note, it's hard to protect the seconding climber on the laybacking if your rope falls into the crack after they clean the gear.

I would suggest taking a #4(x2), #5(x2), maybe a @... more >>


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Elk Slabs : Aid Corner (5.9 A2)
By: Drew Nevius When: Dec 19, 2012

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Comments: Can be led free at 5.10-. You'll need small wires (even better if you have offsets) to protect the crux. This route provides for some airy moves as you stick the sloping lip and mantle. Really fun!


Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : Idaho Boulders : Moondye Boulder : Frightened and Horny (V0)
By: Drew Nevius When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: Pretty low angle slab - if you fall off the top you're going to bounce off the slab before reaching your pads. Fun problem though - can be done in good approach shoes.


Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The North Forty : Dancing Outlaw (5.9+)
By: Drew Nevius When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: Currently the first bolt is missing the nut and hanger. All other bolts have permadraws. Rap rings at the top.


Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
By: Drew Nevius When: Nov 7, 2012

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Comments: Freddy, March is prime climbing weather in the ozarks. It'll be warm enough that you won't be shivering around camp at night - great temps.


Location: AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : Sam's Throne : East Main Bluff : The Prow & Reality Wall : Sliders (5.7 PG13)
By: Drew Nevius When: Oct 29, 2012

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Comments: Get a good spot for the start. Once you are about to pull the lip onto the chickenhead slab, you should be able to sling a chickenhead out to your right for protection. The rest of the gear was slinging chickenheads or .3 to .75 cams. To just TR the route, walk west of the Catacombs and you can get to the bolted anchor (next to a 4" tree) very easily.


Location: AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : Sam's Throne : The Throne : White Trash Wall : Diagonal Crack (5.7)
By: Drew Nevius When: Oct 29, 2012

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Comments: There is now a bolted anchor with rap rings for this route.


Location: AR : Fern : Small Wall Boulder : Faith Healer (5.8)
By: Drew Nevius When: Sep 17, 2012

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Comments: Awkward climbing as you move left from the arete to the dihedral before reaching the anchor.


Location: AR : Fern
By: Drew Nevius When: Sep 16, 2012

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Comments: After you pass Fern (the town), you will pass the Fern Assembly of God and then a tall A-frame house on the right side of the road. Just after that, the "unmarked dirt road" you will take on the right is the national forest road 1544. Once you turn right onto it, you should see a brown post on the right side of the road with "1544" vertically in white numbers.


Location: AR : Fern : P.K. Boulder : Geronimo's Revenge (5.10b)
By: Drew Nevius When: Sep 16, 2012

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Comments: 2 bolt anchor as of 09/16/12


Location: AR : Fern : P.K. Boulder : Easy Street (5.7)
By: Drew Nevius When: Sep 16, 2012

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Comments: 2 cold shuts were up top as of 09/16/12. I did not climb the route to verify that they were good though.


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