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Member Since: Oct 16, 2006
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Drew McLean


Point Rank: # 1,582
Total Points: 373
Last Year: 23
Last 30 Days: 0
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Drew McLean been climbing?










Contributions


All 793 | Routes 5 | Areas | Photos 55 | Page Improvments | Comments 48 | Posts 139 | Stars 339 | Ratings 207
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Equinox (5.11a)
By: Drew McLean When: Sep 29, 2013

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Comments: That grey C3 held my partners fall. He also place the ball nut and clipped the currently fixed RP just below that.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Phil-a-Guster (5.11a)
By: Drew McLean When: Jul 15, 2013

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Comments: This is dripping like a.... Well, let's just say it's really fricking wet as of 7-13-13. Apparently not wet enough for my partner to charge straight through it on sight. Good times. I could not find a dry hold on the entire 10 feet of rock that it goes through.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Outer Space (5.10c R)
By: Drew McLean When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: Believe the hype. It's all true. I thought the undercling move was money. Lots of gear at the crux.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Mr. Coors Contributes to th... (5.9+)
By: Drew McLean When: Nov 10, 2012

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Comments: Fun line but super bat guano filled on ledge in middle. Old school 5.9.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : First Sella Tower : Trenker (5.7)
By: Drew McLean When: Oct 17, 2012

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Comments: Great first route in the Dolomites


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Chiefshead Northwest Face : Birds of Fire (5.11a R)
By: Drew McLean When: Sep 15, 2012

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Comments: If you can keep it together on 9+/10- slab run-outs, then get on this gem of a rock climb.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : All Mixed Up (WI4 R)
By: Drew McLean When: Dec 13, 2011

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Comments: Climbed this on December 11th, 2011, and it is in great shape. The trail is packed in as it appeared someone had climbed the day before based on the look of the fresh tracks. There was good ice on all the pitches. Some thin sections on the lower angle slabs between the steeper short pillars. Several fixed pins helped for protection in those spots. We also used 13mm screws in several areas. The last pitch was by far the most fun, with an optional short section of mixed stemming up the left s... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Super Slab (5.10+)
By: Drew McLean When: Oct 12, 2011

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Comments: Not that anyone needs any more beta on this, but I thought I would second that the bolt is fine where it is. The stance for placing gear is decent and if you fall at that point I don't think you're going to hit anything. I was able to place a small offset brass and and the aforementioned purple 0 Mastercam (green c3 equiv.) before committing to the hard moves. I also had 2 fingertips in the slot above my gear to get my feet up. I can see why people say that TCUs are more likely to pull out. A f... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Apes of Wrath (5.10)
By: Drew McLean When: Sep 22, 2011

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Comments: I love this route. Good holds, moderately sustained with a well defined crux.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Crime & Punishment (5.11a)
By: Drew McLean When: Sep 22, 2011

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Comments: I would say this felt about 11a at the start. The crux near the top was definitely sequency but not quite as hard. I felt it to be about on par with Durangutan. I guess that means Durangutan is sandbagged at 10c. With "Durang" in the name of the climb, I would certain expect it to be sandbagged.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Lower Blair I, II, III, and... : Lower Blair III : Intimidation (5.9+)
By: Drew McLean When: Sep 14, 2011

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Comments: This was the first offwidth I ever climbed (followed), and my partner and I both almost had our shoes fall off whilst heel toeing out the chimney at the top. Such a great route!

Love the CO vs. WY ratings banter on this route's comments. I'll still go with 9+ as the climb should stay what the FA rated it. Just know what you're getting into when you jump onto any 9+ climb in WY or CO. I mean come on Eldo. climbers... . You all know what 9+ is about. It's often harder than modern 10b.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : Colorado Northeast Ridge (5.8 C2)
By: Drew McLean When: Sep 6, 2011

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Comments: Did this last spring. C2 in the Fishers = C3 anywhere else.

key pieces were Gold DMM offset alloy nut at the crux. Being 6'5.5" helped me reach the bolt even when top stepping. Good .75 at the C1 before the mantle above the 3rd belay. Crazy exposure with some pretty serious aid pitches. But I only have Yosemite to compare it with :)


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Kit Carson / The Prow (5.8 R)
By: Drew McLean When: Aug 1, 2011

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Comments: We climbed this today after hiking in last night. This is a classic Colorado alpine route. Loved the entire thing. I think that a car to car in a day would take more out of you than Spearhead in a day as the approach has its share of obstacles. I would only consider this after having done the hike a few times.

The first pitch "5.8R" seemed to consist of pulling on jugs through an overhang with not much feet and then making a rather awkward mantle. It felt a bit stiff for 5.8. Definit... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Sunset Boulevard (5.11b)
By: Drew McLean When: Jul 12, 2011

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Comments: Looks like the pin is new(ish) as it is not even rusted. You can back it up with green Alien or small nuts. It's all good once you get the 1st bolt above the pin.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Pervertical Sanctuary (5.11a)
By: Drew McLean When: Jul 4, 2011

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Comments: Amazing and sustained route. The thin hands will feel like 5.11 if you have big hands like myself. It is very steep and rests are few and far between. This was my first trip up the Diamond. As of yesterday, the North Chimney is steep snow to about half way up, then it turns to rock. Also, there is still snow on Broadway ledg,e so you will want crampons and an axe to get to the base.

I got my #4 stuck in the off width crack near the top of the pitch. Feel free to return it.

G... more >>


Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Ophir : Ophir Wall : East Buttress : Yellow Latex Blues (5.10-)
By: Drew McLean When: Jun 24, 2011

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Comments: I felt this to be stiff at 10-. Although, I suppose the grade is fair for Ophir.


Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Ophir : Ophir Wall : Main Wall : Y-Crack (5.10d)
By: Drew McLean When: Jun 20, 2011

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Comments: I do not have any cool historical stories about climbing this, but I can say that I climbed it last weekend and it IS the best single pitch of climbing in the area (at the grade). Double set of Camalots up to #2. 4 #3s and 1 #4 sufficed. I left the #4 at the base of the Y but could have used up high as the cracked widens up in a few sections. I heard this had a reputation for being sandbagged at 10+. Not the case if you have large hands.... Definitely the case if you do... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : The Hallucinogen Wall (5.10 A3+ R)
By: Drew McLean When: Jun 9, 2011

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Comments: Interesting. It looks like the entire route has been freed.

www.alpinist.com/doc/web11s/newswire-auer-free-hallucinogen->>>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Elbow Vices (5.10)
By: Drew McLean When: May 23, 2011

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Comments: Great climb to put a hot shit sport climber on. A friend of mine who climbs 12+ sport got shutdown in the squeeze. He's not fat either. The trick is the get your ass outside of the squeeze to move up then rest again each time you go up a few inches. A very narrow slot indeed.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Disco Machine Gun (5.12)
By: Drew McLean When: May 23, 2011

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Comments: Don't rely on aliens at the top...


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Black Uhuru (5.10)
By: Drew McLean When: May 23, 2011

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Comments: So fun.... I would say at least 1 ton.

I placed (1) #.4, (4) #.5, (1) #1, (2) #2


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Wendell Spire : Icerigger (5.10d R)
By: Drew McLean When: Jan 17, 2011

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Comments: Not R rated. It's a well-bolted sport climb, just don't blow the second or third clip. I felt it had a second crux getting to the chains. Definitely not over when you gain the rest stance after the 4th clip.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Dome : Medlicott Dome, Right : Bachar-Yerian (5.11c X)
By: Drew McLean When: Nov 10, 2010

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Comments: Cool short film of a recent onsight:




Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Fountain of Youth (5.10b)
By: Drew McLean When: Nov 9, 2010

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Comments: Stellar climb. I felt this was awfully strenuous for 10b getting past the last bolt, but I would not rate it 11a/b. Next time I'll try LBA next door and see how it compares in difficulty to this.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Arch Rock : Zamboni Man (5.10)
By: Drew McLean When: Aug 30, 2010

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Comments: Really nice climb. I felt the first crux was around 10b and the last move before clipping the 5th bolt was awfully thin to be 5.10. But maybe I missed a hidden hold on the arete side pull. Either way this is a really nice slab climb.


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