Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: May 24, 2011
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
Contact DrApnea


Point Rank: # 2,864
Total Points: 168
Last Year: 75
Last 30 Days: 8
7 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has DrApnea been climbing?










Contributions


All 738 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 25 | Page Improvments | Comments 23 | Posts 245 | Stars 338 | Ratings 105

Contributed Comments

 

Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Decadent Wall : Divine Decadence (5.9)
By: DrApnea When: Jul 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: More fun than the neighboring Carol's Crack. Protects well


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - East : Columbian Crack (5.7)
By: DrApnea When: Jul 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Why are there bolts next to this perfect crack? Bring the big gear, pull the bolts. If this route needs any bolts it is only for a station to rap from.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Stripe Rock : Dykes of Gastonia (5.7)
By: DrApnea When: Jul 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Belay at the roof where you start the dyke if you want to belay from anything besides a single chickenhead/horn.
Second belay is a single horn backed up by a single piece behind a block that is completely detached. Fun times but the belays are sketch.
Also the "home made bolt" is gone or I didn't find it. There are two newer bolts on the first pitch but it still deserves a strong R rating.
Also we walked around a bit before finding the rap station. Finish the route and continue up and over ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Kiss the Sky (5.10b)
By: DrApnea When: Jun 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Nothing bigger than BD C4 #0.5 for the second pitch. Thin edging.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Maudlin (5.7) : Photo
By: DrApnea When: Apr 20, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Also note where the other photo says the 70M rope ending 10ft above the ground is actually at about shoulder height or lower.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Touchstone Wall (5.9 C2)
By: DrApnea When: Apr 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Supertopo guide was spot on. We aided P1-3 and freed P4 and up.
We brought more gear than necessary, so here is what we actually used:

DMM offset aluminum nuts: 2 sets (only used 1 set)
TriCams: #0.5, 1, 1.5 (really only need the 1 and 1.5 for placement above the roof on P2)
Metolius Mastercams #0 (never used)
Metolius Mastercams #1
Metolius Mastercams #2
Metolius Mastercams #3
Metolius Mastercams #0/1
Metolius Mastercams #1/2
Metolius Mastercam... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Bad Moki Roof (5.9)
By: DrApnea When: Mar 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Saw a 0.75 BC C4 jammed way back in there on the traversing roof section last week. Tried to work it out but the trigger wire was already a bit worked. Good luck to who ever tries for it next.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Private Pizza Wall : Photo
By: DrApnea When: Mar 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Rough locations from memory. feel free to correct me if you disagree


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Layback Crack (5.5)
By: DrApnea When: Mar 10, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The new anchors here are unnecessary, even for a 5.5 climb. They are in the middle of pitch 2. They are next to a tree. They are next to a gear anchor potential. They are only 20 feet from the prior established belay anchors that reside at a nice ledge. Whoever put these in needs to sell their drill. Pull them and reclaim your hangers before someone else does.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Peshastin Pinnacles State P...
By: DrApnea When: Dec 26, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Good information on Peshastin located at:
www.justgetout.net/JGO/post/Peshastin-Pinnacles----Rock-Clim>>>

Pictures of the area, some route topos, etc.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Industrial Wall : Loading Dock (5.9+)
By: DrApnea When: Jun 30, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This must have cleaned up quite a bit since the comments above because it was not dirty and had good moves. I thought it was just as good as Hoffa finger. Pulling through the roof is the crux and very different than its brother next door. Felt like 5.9+ to 10-


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Unknown (5.9)
By: DrApnea When: Apr 30, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Done in approach shoes. A fun line, no harder than 5.7, It really should be a trad climb though since nearly every bolt had a spot for pro within 3 feet of it if you had the right gear (Tricams, nuts, and mastercams).


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : The Moonlight Buttress (Cle... (5.8 C1)
By: DrApnea When: Oct 8, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Comments:
-P1: Do the 5.10 pitch variation. I followed it in approach shoes without difficulty.
-P5: Chimney pitch is awkward if getting into it low. after flailing down low, I ended up getting back out of it and getting high up by the anchors before re-entering it. This sets you up to free climb to the bolt, or french free by pulling on a tipped out BD#4 or properly fit #5.
-Gear: If aggressively back cleaning cams triples would be enough, even for the #0.5 pitch. Just han... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Narcolepsy Area : Narcolepsy (5.8 R)
By: DrApnea When: Jul 19, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: #00 mastercam and an offset #2/3 mastercam both fit great below the first bolt. Didn't try anything between that and the second because the holds were pretty good if you stay right.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Black Peeler Buttress : Peeler Face : Peeler Direct (A2)
By: DrApnea When: Jul 9, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: This climb is actually 2 pitches, sharing the same first pitch as Black peeler, but they diverge at the ramp. On P2, it is a pretty long reach from the last bolt to the bashie even though I was top stepping. Maybe the bashie was at the bottom of the crack before like it says in the description, but it is at least another foot higher than where I was expecting it considering that the bolts to get there can be ascended from the 2nd or 3rd steps. I had to top step and tie a quickdraw open to get... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Nostrum (5.8 A2)
By: DrApnea When: Jul 8, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: The anchor in the ledge atop of Butterfield Route P1 (in book) consists of a KB and a knotted rope jammed in a shallow constriction. The tree below this was questionable when I pushed on it to test for a rappel. I'd recommend the next person bring a longer LA to leave near the KB for the anchor in the alcove. Also the shrub is getting thick in the cracks around this area so it must need more traffic.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Mule Hollow Wall : Center Face (5.6)
By: DrApnea When: Jun 21, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Felt like 5.5. Fun but not more than a 2 star route unless you give it an extra because of the length. 5 Bolted anchors are there to rap off with a 60M rope when done. The retro-bolted version of this route (Down, Dirty, Doublecrossed) needs to be pulled. There are more than enough natural gear placements here even if you only bring a set of nuts, hexes, and slings.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Mule Hollow Wall : Down, Dirty, Doublecrossed (5.7)
By: DrApnea When: Jun 21, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: This bolted route is not necessary. It is not even a first ascent as listed above but rather a retro-bolt of another route. Someone needs to chop this. If you hike this far to do a 5.6, at least use the natural gear that the wall already takes. Bolting this line, Which is essentially center face, is a disgrace.
Pull it and delete it from MP.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Layback Crack (5.5)
By: DrApnea When: Jun 14, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: If you do P2, go through the roofs. Adds some fun, but no harder than 5.7


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Amphitheater Overhang Right (A1)
By: DrApnea When: Feb 16, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Dry despite recent snowfall. Currently has fixed gear along the entire roof.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Perhaps (5.7)
By: DrApnea When: Oct 29, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Watch the rope drag. Can be protected with long draws and medium to large passive gear only if you are interested in doing so. But be sure to protect traverse. There was an article in one of the climbing magazines a few years back about the need to question fixed gear which told of a climber taking a huge pendulum with major spine injuries because of an old fixed piton that pulled out on this route.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coal Pit Buttress : Precious Lost (5.10)
By: DrApnea When: Oct 15, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed P3 today after rapping down from Japanese Terraces. P3 was dirty but fun considering I only had up to 3" gear. Bring a BD#4 for this. As a side note, there is recent rockfall visible below P2 that looks less than a week old with boulders visible all the way down in the talus field approach to pentapitch. It even took out a tree with an 18" trunk. Look out for rockfall as things don't look the most stable up there right now.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Pentapitch (5.8)
By: DrApnea When: Aug 25, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed it today. The crux for me was avoiding a bat in a hand jam on P1. It looked mean while screaming and showing its teeth to me. Otherwise great route especially with the sasquatch pitch mixed in.