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Leading up Eat Yourself A Pie 5.8+ at Barkeater in the Adirondacks


Member Since: Dec 23, 2011
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 582
Total Points: 1,071
Last Year: 149
Last 30 Days: 25
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 563 | Routes 48 | Areas 19 | Photos 56 | Page Improvements | Comments 26 | Posts 35 | Stars 279 | Ratings 100
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Dip Wall : The Lorax Tree (5.9+)
By: Drake Pregnall When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: Any info on P2?


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Dip Wall : Sam I Am (5.10d)
By: Drake Pregnall When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: The start is 15-20 feet of face climbing on incredibly crumbly sand"stone". It's a very delicate business and definitely puts your head on straight for the actual crack. Super fun and physical. Couldn't find any great rests. Took out a bunch of spider webs on my way. Excellent Tom Souders climb.


Location: AL : Horse Pens 40 : Deck Area/Front Slabs : Ain't Skeered (V3)
By: Drake Pregnall When: Nov 10, 2013

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Comments: This climb deserves some more love. Absolutely beautiful moves and holds.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Northern Region : Mckenzie Pond Boulders : Second Set : ... : Photo
By: Drake Pregnall When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: Stretcher of a topout


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Beer Walls : Rockaholic (5.8)
By: Drake Pregnall When: Nov 12, 2012

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Comments: The bolts that were the anchor next to the tree have been chopped. Just a heads up.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Beer Walls : Live Free or Die (5.9+)
By: Drake Pregnall When: Jul 6, 2012

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Comments: This is a super easy climb to set up a toprope on. If you want to get a bold lead in though, this climb certainly has the elements. I certainly believe it was 9+ when it was first done, but the polished crimps and slippery crack have upped the ante in my opinion.

GEAR BETA WARNING: A #5 BD Stopper is the first real piece you can get in at around 12 feet. There is a tiny slot just a few feet below where the finger crack properly starts. It is not obvious at all, so hopefully me pointing i... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Beer Walls : Labatt-Ami (5.7)
By: Drake Pregnall When: Jul 3, 2012

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Comments: In my couple times leading this route, I think I even used two 4 inch cams, but if I recall correctly, you can just place 3 inch cams deep in the crack so long as you sling them long to avoid what would be heinous rope drag.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Airy Aria (5.8)
By: Drake Pregnall When: May 26, 2012

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Comments: I did this route today, and the proper line in the corner for the first pitch was soaking, so I took the really thin line on the right than angles up to the same two bolt anchor as the main line. I think it's still the same grade, just a lot tinier pieces of pro. Very cool and very different. If you enjoy this route the normal way, give that variation a go. We finished by going from the two bolt anchor all the way to the top in one long pitch. Communication was very difficult.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Beer Walls : Clutch and Cruise (5.8)
By: Drake Pregnall When: May 24, 2012

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Comments: Glad to see someone else found the no-hands positioning before the crux. I think that's such an awesome thing on this route. I would like to add that I think this route ought to have its own bolted anchor at the top of the corner section above the meat of the route. Other climbs at the Beer Walls such as Rockaholic have gone from having bad and inconveniently placed tree anchors to simple two bolt anchors. I think it would make the climb better, as it would avoid the super chossy sections toward... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Beer Walls : Turbocharge (5.10a)
By: Drake Pregnall When: May 22, 2012

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Comments: There is a two bolt anchor at the top of the first pitch of this climb as late as this past spring.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Region : Pitchoff Chimney Cliff : Pete's Farewell (5.7)
By: Drake Pregnall When: May 22, 2012

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Comments: For those of you used to the fixed gray alien cam being at the first belay, it wasn't there when i went up on saturday 5/19/12. Just beware that the belay now will eat up even more of your little gear.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Deadwater : Main Cliff : Sundance (5.9)
By: Drake Pregnall When: Mar 25, 2012

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Comments: After pulling the hard moves at the bottom, be sure to sew up the crack. This is not for safety, as the climbing is not super hard and there are pitons, but as you climb higher, the rope is prone to being sucked into the crack to the point that upward progress is impossible. putting an extra smallish cam or two in down low can save you having to bail off this great climb before the beautiful high finger crack.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : Sunnyside : Kokopeli's Dream (5.9)
By: Drake Pregnall When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: Super unique climb. I wish it were longer. There is another climb that launches off from the top of this one, but I believe it is a couple grades harder. Getting to the first bolt and even the second bolt on this one is pretty committing. Good to have spotters.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : Bruise Brothers Wall : Don't Take Yer Guns to Town (5.10c)
By: Drake Pregnall When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: No doubt that pulling the roof is the crux. I couldn't fire the big reach to the jug, so I was trying to bump to it off various crimps with a heel hook. 100% agree that even once you do pull the roof, the climb is not over. It didn't seem particularly well traveled to me, because there wasn't much chalk above the roof, and all the holds were super sharp. I was wandering around up there before I finally saw the anchors. Cleaning this route can be a bit of a pain too. With all that being said, I s... more >>


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : Bruise Brothers Wall : Flutterby Blue (5.9)
By: Drake Pregnall When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: The first move is super reachy if you do the direct start. I traversed in from the left.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : Bruise Brothers Wall : Hey There Fancy Pants (5.10c)
By: Drake Pregnall When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: Spicy first clip


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : Bruise Brothers Wall : Put the Best Foot Forward (5.8)
By: Drake Pregnall When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: Since Bruise Brothers is good in the rain, it can get really crowded on those rainy days. This line is a good bet to be open a crowded day. I found the climbing easy. I only used four pieces of gear, and didn't bother with the two bolts towards the top. Definitely lots of runners necessary to avoid rope drag.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Fortress Wall : Bombs Bursting (5.8)
By: Drake Pregnall When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: Exiting the roof to the right is for sure the way to go. Really fun and exposed. Less than obvious placements, so get a nice rest in below the roof so you're not pumped trying to find a place to shove a cam. Also agree about tiny pieces of loose rock raining down from the top out. Helmets for belayers no doubt.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Fortress Wall : Calypso I (5.7)
By: Drake Pregnall When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: I onsighted this climb, so perhaps I missed some otherwise obvious placements, but I took the scramble up from the right start variation, and found my first piece being a .4 inch cam that I was placing blindly as I leaned left out over a 20 foot drop with my right hand crimping a tiny hold. The climb was super quality though. Really fun flake and features higher up.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Fortress Wall
By: Drake Pregnall When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: Absolutely agree with you there. I climb in the Gunks and the Adirondacks regularly, two very sandbagged places, and I still found the Fortress Wall grades to be a bit stiff.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Phantasia : Lord of the Flies (5.8)
By: Drake Pregnall When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: Super pocketed route. It felt easier than 5.8 to me, and while I was up there, I felt like if you spent enough time, you could turn it into 5.5 if you just found the right line of jugs. Very fun warmup, and I also found it to be a good intro to the rock that is in the Red.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Phantasia : Attack of the Sand Shark (5.9-)
By: Drake Pregnall When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: I too started in on the left crack of the two. It was pretty dirty, so I actually moved out to the slab and enjoyed a little runout before getting my first piece in. The meat of the route is in the upper crack above the ledge anyway.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Phantasia : Overlord (5.10b)
By: Drake Pregnall When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: Loved the moves on here. Really fun slab climbing. Felt easier than 10b to me. I tried comparing it to Lonesome Dove in Rumney NH which is a 10a. I especially enjoyed this route because it gets a bunch of sun. It was a pretty cold day when I did it, and I was grateful to not have numb fingers on this one.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Left Flank : Face Up To That Crack (5.8-)
By: Drake Pregnall When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: I agree with most people that it's totally easy to sew up the crack with a 1 and 2 inch cam even if it's not necessary to. I highly recommend this climb to anyone looking to get into trad leading. The climbing is all fairly easy, especially the hand jams in the crack, and if you do freak out placing gear in the crack, you have bolts below and above.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Northern Region : Mckenzie Pond Boulders : Second Set : ... : Sleepy Hollow (V1)
By: Drake Pregnall When: Feb 1, 2012

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Comments: This problem is the bane of my existence.


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