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 ADVANCED
Second pitch of MF at the Gunks, on 1/12/08.


Member Since: Apr 18, 2006
Last Visit: Jul 5, 2014
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Point Rank: # 745
Total Points: 863
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17 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 635 | Routes 45 | Areas 3 | Photos 57 | Page Improvements | Comments 83 | Posts 13 | Stars 342 | Ratings 92
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : Absolution (5.11d)
By: Dr. Evil When: Oct 15, 2011

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Comments: Placing a shoulder-length sling on the second bolt will allow you to clip it from a good hold.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Smack That Bitch Up (5.11c)
By: Dr. Evil When: Oct 15, 2011

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Comments: Getting over the roof is quite height-dependent. The crux is clipping above the roof. If you blow the cli,p you'll smash into the slab below.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Herb-A-Med-Veg-A-Matic (5.11b)
By: Dr. Evil When: Oct 15, 2011

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Comments: If you're short (I'm 5'6"), placing the draw on the third bolt above the ledge is scary. It's not just a 5.6 runout for someone of my height. To reach the bolt, I had to climb quite a bit above the ledge and do 10- slab moves using suspect, fractured rock for handholds. If you fell, you would not only hit the ledge, there's groundfall potential if you then bounced off the ledge.

I placed a shoulder-length runner on that bolt in addition to the draw to allow clipping from a safe stance. I sugges... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : Tombstone Crack (5.8)
By: Dr. Evil When: Oct 15, 2011

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Comments: This climb is incredibly fun and interesting if you like chimney climbing. It can be done in one long pitch to the top with a 60 m rope.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Nessun Dorma (5.10)
By: Dr. Evil When: Oct 9, 2011

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Comments: This climb now has a second pitch. Does anyone know about this extension? How hard is it?


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Ptarmigan Creek Area : Greg's Cliff : This Way or That (5.10b/c)
By: Dr. Evil When: Sep 11, 2011

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Comments: This climb is very fun but definitely reachy - if you're short, it will feel harder.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek : Phat City : Sweaty Betty (5.10d)
By: Dr. Evil When: Sep 11, 2011

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Comments: The climbing on this route is very fun. Unfortunately, at least when I climbed it, it was super dirty. There was guano, sand, and lichen all over at the bottom of the route. Worth doing if clean.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek : Sunset Cliff : I'll be Black (5.10b)
By: Dr. Evil When: Sep 11, 2011

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Comments: This climb is amazingly fun. Must do.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek : Sunset Cliff : Sunset Crack (5.8)
By: Dr. Evil When: Sep 11, 2011

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Comments: Note that this climb is right of I'll Be Black, not left of it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka LightHo... : The Homesteader (5.11d)
By: Dr. Evil When: Apr 19, 2010

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Comments: The lower jug haul on this route is lots of fun, but I am puzzled about how to pull the upper bulge right above the ledge. It seemed quite a bit harder than 11d. What am I missing?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka LightHo... : Howl Of A Hungry Cat (5.10d)
By: Dr. Evil When: Apr 19, 2010

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Comments: Although this climb is short, it has really fun moves. A little face climbing, a little crack climbing, a little roof.

When I was on this climb yesterday, someone inside the crack in the middle section hissed at me. Maybe a bat?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : P38 (5.10b PG13)
By: Dr. Evil When: Jan 23, 2010

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Comments: The climbing on this route is super fun.

I would call this route very well protected. What the description calls a runout move after the traverse can be protected well by a small nut, and the climbing is pretty easy at that point. The actual 10 climbing can be sewn up with small-medium nuts.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Isn't Life Strange (5.11c)
By: Dr. Evil When: Jan 10, 2010

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Comments: This is a fun route. The crux roofs remind me of the Gunks.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Tuesday Afternoon (5.11)
By: Dr. Evil When: Dec 1, 2009

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Comments: The flake at the roof appears to be gone now. I'm not sure how hard the crux is now (I'm not good at roof climbs), but it seems hard for 11.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Talking Out Of Turn (5.10)
By: Dr. Evil When: Sep 27, 2009

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Comments: Hmmm, I guess I'm the odd one out here. I didn't think this route was very good, mainly because I found it quite chossy. A lot of key holds on the route are not fully attached or are hollow. Maybe it will clean up with time.

The best part was seeing the antique pitons on an old aid line just right of the top of this route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Dominator (5.10c)
By: Dr. Evil When: Jul 12, 2009

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Comments: This climb currently has a spinner bolt - the last bolt before the anchor.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Dead Can Dance (5.10a)
By: Dr. Evil When: Jul 12, 2009

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Comments: This climb currently has a spinner bolt.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Dead Again (5.10b)
By: Dr. Evil When: Jul 12, 2009

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Comments: This climb currently has a couple spinner bolts.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Pink Laurel (5.9)
By: Dr. Evil When: Jul 1, 2009

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Comments: I don't quite agree that this is a classic - at least at the moment, it is rather mossy and slimy. Maybe in a drier year it's a classic.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Shockley's Ceiling (5.6)
By: Dr. Evil When: Jul 1, 2009

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Comments: In my opinion, the first two pitches of this route aren't junk - they're fun Gunks 5.3 and worth doing! You can easily string together the first two pitches to the GT ledge if you have double ropes.

Overall, a good route.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Turkey Shoot (5.9)
By: Dr. Evil When: Jun 5, 2009

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Comments: This route is classic. Definitely worth doing.

We had no problems placing Camalots #4, #5, and #6 on this route. If you don't like runouts, bring the big gear.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Great White Crime (5.11b)
By: Dr. Evil When: Jun 5, 2009

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Comments: This climb is fun - short but sweet - and it absolutely eats nuts and small cams. There are lots of rests/stances to place gear.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Gobbler's Grunt (5.9)
By: Dr. Evil When: Jun 5, 2009

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Comments: This route is brilliant with the handcrack variation to the first pitch - thanks to everyone here for recommending it. Every pitch on this climb is super fun. The gear is excellent as well.

A comment on this first pitch: to me, the roof did not feel like the crux; I was surprised that it felt relatively easy. I thought that the wide parts of the crack down low (before the roof) and above the roof felt harder. I have small hands, and sections of these cracks were wider than fist for me... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Hummingbird Way aka Snively... (5.9)
By: Dr. Evil When: Jun 5, 2009

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Comments: This route has great rock, is a beautiful line, and is definitely wide.

As usual, I forgot that having small hands makes wide cracks feel hard: I found few hand jams on this route, and not so many fists either. If your hands are gigantic, this is the route for you. If you have small hands and are generally terrified of wide cracks (like me) you'll be happy with some big gear. We placed the two biggest curve hexes and the #3, #3.5, #4, #5, and #6 Camalots on both p... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Sheep's Nose : Ten Years After (5.9)
By: Dr. Evil When: Jun 5, 2009

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Comments: This is a great, fun route, which felt easier than it looked from below.

It is easy to do this route in one pitch if you belay from the top. Stopping at the bolted anchor just feels like a bummer - you want to keep going in this beautiful corner.


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