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Member Since: Apr 28, 2002
Last Visit: Mar 17, 2015
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
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Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

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All 49 | Routes | Areas | Photos 6 | Page Improvements | Comments 22 | Posts | Stars 15 | Ratings 6

Contributed Comments


Location: UT : Saint George : Cougar Cliffs : Heaven's a Lie (5.11c)
By: Dr. Dan When: Nov 19, 2014

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Comments: P1 of Heaven is a Lie has the easiest start of any of the 3 routes. Crux is 11c (but easier than route on far right). Upper pitch is fun, steep with good hands. Liked P2 on Forsaken better, but both fun sustained climbing.

Location: UT : Saint George : Cougar Cliffs : Forsaken (5.11a)
By: Dr. Dan When: Nov 19, 2014

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Comments: Here is the skinny as of 11/18/2014. There are 3 routes bolted from the bottom to the mid station and 2 routes to the top.
Routes from right to left:
1) Starts on horizontal bars through overhang to decent 10 moves to very, very thin, shallow pockets (?11d-12). 1st bolt is at 12 feet just over the cave moves. Crux is the thin section and is well bolted, but very challenging (for me). Climbing gets easier after the thin crux. If you want to climb to the top via P2 of the other routes you wil... more >>

Location: CO : Steamboat Springs : North of Town : Hole in the Wall Canyon : Shield of the Titans : MPO (Mo's Pissed Off) (5.12a/b)
By: Dr. Dan When: Sep 11, 2014

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Comments: This route is called MPO (Mo's Pissed Off). The story is I was bolting it solo and stayed out way too late and my wife, Mo, was on the phone to SAR when I walked in the door.
Done as one pitch this is long hard route. The bottom half to the midway anchor is 11-. After mid-way, the climbing is straightforward until you reach a bulge and the bolts veer right. If you go off line to the up-left it is easy 10, but if you go right out over the bulge it involves a series (about 5) physical and prec... more >>

Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : The Roofs of Jericho (5.10c)
By: Dr. Dan When: Apr 23, 2012

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Comments: Led this route 2005, 2007, 2009 and today, 4/23/2012. There are definitely a few holds missing on roof1 making it more sequnce dependent, but I still think 10c is still accurate. I also led the single pitch immediately to left of P1 and thought that pitch was 10d.

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Touch 'N' Go (5.8+)
By: Dr. Dan When: Aug 19, 2009

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Comments: Lead this route clean OS yesterday. Didn't have the guidebook and had no idea what route I was on until today. It was one of the best moderate routes I have done in Eldo. Compares with the upper part of P1 on Werksupp, but a grade or so harder. Take a blue and yellow Alien. The yellow fit perfectly in the upper part of the final crux pocket and made me braver. Our 70m rope made it just to the deck. Also, very wet at the base of the climb and lots of wasps.

Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mount Carmel Tunnel : Headache Area : The Headache (5.10+)
By: Dr. Dan When: Apr 22, 2009

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Comments: Have done this route four times now. It is a bunch of good climbing with a very short approach. Would agree P1 is no harder than 9+, but a 3.5 is nice and other than one wide move is not OW. P2 is just fun made more interesting with the bolt slab problem and a very secure roof (#2 BD cam) to move through. P3 is the most challenging climbing at 10a/b. Good to bring a bunch of finger and small hand sizes for P3, but the wide crack near the top will happily take a #3.

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Chasm View Wall : Directissima (5.10b)
By: Dr. Dan When: Sep 4, 2005

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Comments: [Climbed] the route yesterday in beautiful fall/summer conditions. A gift [of] a day. P2-4 were 5*. Led P3 and would agree that both P3 and P4 are equally challenging, you just work harder on P3. Don't think P3 is just about the [squeeze] or that P4 is just about the 10b crux, they are both solid from the deck to the [anchor]. FIXED Gear: There are 2 Met #4 in the [squeeze]. The first is about 15 feet up and is in good shape. The 2nd #4 is near the top of the [squeeze] and is t... more >>

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : North Ridge (5.6)
By: Dr. Dan When: Jul 9, 2004

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Comments: Went up to do Syke's, but there was a very slow party on the route so decided to see if we could make the North Ridge interesting. The route we did follows an obvious weakness and broken crack system from the bottom to the top (see picture below). It is a good option if Sykes' isn't available and you are not feeling 5.11 or 5.6.

We did the climb in 5 long pitches (all 185-200 ft), but it is probably a good idea to break up P1 and P5 in to 2 pitches each due to rope drag. P1 was done as one d... more >>

Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : SOB Gully (skier's left sid... : Comic Relief (5.10)
By: Dr. Dan When: Jun 25, 2004

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Comments: Climbed Comic Relief in amazingly good weather 6/24/04. Linked P1+P2 which is definitely the way to go. Makes for a sustained 185 ft 10+ pitch. Things to remember. Double sling at the end of P1 to reduce rope drag and listen to the beta about bringing lots of small hand and finger pieces. P1 and P2 are mostly small hands and fingers. Ran out of appropriate pro which led to a run out of about 20 feet near the top of P2 before getting a nice green cam in. The Black Corner is a worth doing. ... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Mellow Fellow (5.12a)
By: Dr. Dan When: Feb 27, 2004

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Comments: Probably a little late, but there is a good fixed pin in the vertical seam going up to the roof that is bomber (would be a nasty swing if you came off above the roof). There is a fixed nut with a sling about 8 feet to the right after you get over the roof. There is fixed gear right below the second roof.

Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Muscle Beach (5.11a/b)
By: Dr. Dan When: Feb 27, 2004

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Comments: I am no Shelf Road veteran, but the only climb in the 11 range on this section has to be Muscle Beach. It has its own start in an irregular crack just left of Afterburner. Once through the crack it works straight up on smoother rock on some steep holds and then angles right on the slightly overhanging bulge. It is an excellent route, but rather than 11b/c it felt more like 11a.

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Eumenides (5.8)
By: Dr. Dan When: Sep 13, 2003

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Comments: Just climbed Eumenides yesterday (9/12). Due to the winds of 40 mph, cold in the morning and the wandering nature of the route it was a near alpine experience. We did the route to the very top in 5 pitches. My partner (Todd) and I would agree on the ** rating, but we had a great time on all the pitches. I would recommend it as an alpine primer. P1, 3, and 5 were challenging 5.8s. On the last pitch, I went up, then out left to just under the last rise. At this point the climbing straight up ... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Werk Supp (5.9)
By: Dr. Dan When: Jul 1, 2003

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Comments: Before I led P2 I was given some beta on gear, which included taking a couple of Metolius #3s and a #4. The only gear I used, and felt very secure, were #1s and #2s. It is not actually an off-width, but a solid, be it awkward, hand crack. Because of the right leaning and downward direction of the crack, it leaves your body hanging and your right foot smearing most of the way.

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Mainliner (5.9)
By: Dr. Dan When: May 6, 2003

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Comments: Did a rope solo on this route and thought it was excellent and deserving of 3 stars. The climb has a little of everything with outstanding rock quality. I would leave the #4 cam at home and stick with a standard rack with a good selection of medium and large nuts. Would also say that the route is closer to an 8+. While the climbing is consistent, there are really only a couple of 9ish moves

Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Sundial Dihedral (5.11b C1)
By: Dr. Dan When: Apr 27, 2003

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Comments: I think this is a truly worthy route! We took the 5.8 start on the left and while everything is there, the pro can be a little tricky in a couple of spots. On P2 I tried to get up the initial section free about 4 times before throwing in the towel and aiding the first 10-15 feet. After this there is a fun free section using some horizontal cracks and pulling up onto the slopey ledge. Got a couple of more moves up past the ledge before resorting to aid again. P3 is as described above. On P4... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Mellow Fellow (5.12a)
By: Dr. Dan When: Dec 3, 2002

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Comments: Another link up that is fun and not as hard as the Vertigo start is to do the direct start (10b) on the Yellow Spur. At the top of P4 go right up a lose ramp until you are under a large bulge. The bulge is solid and fun and looks harder than it is (9). Once over the bulge angle right up into the big roof on Mellow Yellow. Climb the roof using the crimp on the right facing wall and reach for a pincher hold out left. Once over the roof there are ample tiny crimp holds, but no pro. Move right... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Black Top (5.11c)
By: Dr. Dan When: Sep 9, 2002

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Comments: I think it is one of the best sport routs in Eldo. While I was climbing it I was less than pleased with the bolt placement, but it keeps your concentration up right to the end when you reach the ramp. Its neighbor, BackTalk is even more run out, but not in the cruxiest sections. Both climbs are on good quality rock and the holds are all there.

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Adrenaline (5.9 R)
By: Dr. Dan When: Sep 9, 2002

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Comments: Since the [existing] comments are at best neutral, I would like to suggest an upgrade (in terms of quality not difficultly) on the [route]. I have climbed it with a partner (John Varco) and solo. I thought both climbs were very good with solid rock requiring varied techniques. Some hand jamming on the crux move, and some finger jamming on P4, stemming, face climbing and chimney moves are all there. If you want to climb a relatively long [route] with [good] quality [consistent] climbing in the... more >>

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Direct Second Buttress (5.9)
By: Dr. Dan When: Jul 27, 2002

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Comments: Did most of the route on 7/14/2002. A few differences from the above description plus one near death experience. P1-Take line directly up the big corner then go up left over some fun, but lose ground to some good features which go past the very questionable fixed belay, to a better natural belay just right of the crux pitch. (180-190 ft)P2-The crux pitch is 9+ with good protection. It is a right facing, right arching crack. At the top of the crux section there is very poorly protected ledge ... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Backtalk (5.10c R)
By: Dr. Dan When: May 6, 2002

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Comments: The moves off of the ramp going right are really cool. Use the finger slot jams to position yourself for a clip. It is a more challenging climb than Blackwalk, requiring more precise foot and hand work. I thought the danger level as far as a serious fall was less on this climb than Blackwalk, although the potential for loss of skin and bruising is significant.

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Blackwalk (5.10b/c R)
By: Dr. Dan When: May 6, 2002

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Comments: I hopped on this route with out a lot of beta. I found two bolts to clip and about a 30 foot run out on 5.8-9 after the 10b-c crux. It was really very solid climbing and not sketchy. On the ramp there is the tendency to go for the lower chain ancors on Backtalk, but since the climbing is easy, go left, find 2 fixed pins in the flake or place a .75 cam and move up and left to the real anchors. Fun climb, but it tests you mental cool.

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rewritten (5.7)
By: Dr. Dan When: Apr 28, 2002

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Comments: Agreed this is a *** route. Doing the Great Zot start and keeping gear to a minimum it was possible to link P1 and P2 to the eye bolt. Even with that there was a lot of drag. Did P3 and P4 in the traditional manner to the base of Rebuffet's and again linked the last 2 pitches climbing the Arete, stepping across to the crack and to the summit. Using a supple 9.7 rope and a lot of slings it was very doable in 4 pitches and leaves you more time to play in the park.

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