Comments: Dropped a line from the top anchor yesterday. Pitch 2 was awesome. The line from the big ramp directly below the intermediate anchor goes at 5.10 with a few nice moves on very crumbly rock. Would be a nice line if a solid bolt was placed there, but I'm not sure if a bolt in that stuff would hold a fall.
Comments: Downclimbed it after 'Taking Care of Business'. The moves felt considerably harder than anything on NE face of 5th Flatiron (5.6), which I've done just before that. So heads up if you don't have rope.
Comments: I expected some tricky route finding and adventurous climbing on this one and was rather underwhelmed. First 2 pitches to the first bolted anchor are 5.4. Then there's a 30-foot pitch to the ridge. The moves were easier than on North face, but the rock wasn't as solid.
There was a couple working on a bolted line that goes straight up from the first belay (that Steve mentioned above). It has just gotten a FA and the red tag is now removed. They said it goes at 5.12d. Looks like an instant classi... more >>
Comments: The wall is basically the north face of Anarchy crag. Routes have fun moves, but the rock feels a little fragile, although nothing broke on me. Actually that makes climbing only more interesting. The only really bad thing about the crag is that all belay spots are on steep loose slope. It's impossible to keep your rope out of the dirt as it will slide off of rope bag. If anyone is going there, please bring a shovel and make a flat belay spot for one route. It's faster than washing a rope afterwa... more >>
Comments: Very memorable climb. Feel calm and happy now, like after a climb as good as this. As we read through these comments beforehand, we came prepared. Here are couple thoughts I have:
1) Double ropes - couldn't have done it without them. 2) #5 before traverse - thanks, Tony B! I had feelings of warmth and peace in my body as I was pulling the first corner and remembering I placed it there. #4 will do in same crack but a bit lower. #6 will do a bit higher. 3) Traverse is well-prote... more >>