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Member Since: Apr 13, 2002
Last Visit: Aug 12, 2014
Contact Dougald MacDonald


Point Rank: # 772
Total Points: 820
Last Year: 5
Last 30 Days: 0
56 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Dougald MacDonald been climbing?










Dougald MacDonald

 
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Contributions


All 477 | Routes 42 | Areas 5 | Photos 32 | Page Improvments | Comments 165 | Posts 64 | Stars 124 | Ratings 45
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Gravitations (5.11d)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jan 28, 2003

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Comments: It occurs to me that with all the comments bout "spice" and runouts, some do-gooder might get the idea to add a bolt or two to Gravitations. Please, please, please don't! The route is great the way it is.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : Aquavelva - aka Headdress -... (5.9 WI5 M5)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 19, 2002

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Comments: Pretty sure this was climbed by Topher Donahue and (?) a couple of years ago.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : Redgarden Boulders : The Wisdom Simulator Simula... (V9 R)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 18, 2002

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Comments: A 50-foot V9 traverse into the Wisdom yields a 5.11+?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : Stage Fright (5.11a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 1, 2002

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Comments: I diagonaled directly to the roof, the option you described. I don't know if it's harder than stepping right and going straight up, but it was fairly run-out. In the end, we felt it was sort of silly, though -- better to just follow the easiest ground to the roof, where the real action starts. Great climb, all in all, with the crux near the top, where it should be.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Le Boomerang (5.11+)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Sep 9, 2002

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Comments: Does anyone know where Derek went after he got to the anchor? Downclimb C'est la Vie? Second pitch of C'est la Vie? Desdichado?


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Lower East Face : Directagonal (5.11 R)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Sep 7, 2002

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Comments: Back to Directagonal for a moment:

This route was almost completely dry in early September, and in these conditions it is definitely 3-star. Superb, varied climbing with adequate pro. Couple of comments on gear: Someone could do a huge public service by replacing a couple of anchor bolts (one at each bolted anchor) and the pro bolt on pitch 5. The pro on pitch 4 isn't too bad with a fistful of RPs and the smallest Aliens -- no individual piece seems that great on the crux traverse, but you get ... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Moraine Park/Fern Lake Trai... : Jaws Falls (WI4)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 31, 2002

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Comments: When Jaws is thin, but still cold and safe, there can be a terriffic mixed line on the right side. Look for a cracky, corner thing through a steep bulge on the right side of the big curtain. You'll know you're in the right place if you get good pro. Short but very steep cranking off good tool placements in the crack lead to easier ground. Good pro, too. About M5-M6 when I did it.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : Spear Me the Details (5.11d)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 21, 2002

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Comments: The crux of this climb, for me, was very clearly the moves past the initial corner and horizontal crack on the fifth pitch, getting established on the bolted face above. When we did it, the fixed pin was very loose and I had to hang to place solid gear before committing to the move. Rumor has it the pin may now be gone (?). In either case, there are good wires to be found by a determined leader. Maybe it was just the fat bolts, but I thought the climbing above was easier.

On the last pitch, it'... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 13, 2002

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Comments: For those of us who are very afraid of the fourth pitch and the expanding flake that holds the usual pro for the moves into the chimney, it's easy to reach left and place a good 3/4" cam (the yellow Alien, I believe). This piece is good. Trust me.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Northwest Corner (5.11a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 1, 2002

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Comments: Now that I've (FINALLY!) led the crux without a problem, I think this is a great route. Before it was negative-five stars. If you're weak, like me, don't stint on gear for the traverse from the bolt to the belay (assuming you've taken the left variation). You can clip the second bolt at your knees with a long sling. And be sure to back up the pin at the end. The exit is not trivial!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Thunderdome (5.12a)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 16, 2002

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Comments: I don't think the block above the roof is much to worry about -- I knocked on it hard (and pulled on it hard), and it seems really wedged in. Now watch me get sued!!

Great climb: pumpier than it looks up to the roof, cool moves over the roof (easier if you're not short), another very hard move, then great 5.10 to the top. Now for the redpoint.....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Gravitations (5.11d)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: May 23, 2002

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Comments: I agree: This is the best route of its grade at Cactus and maybe at all of Shelf. The run-outs are intimidating, but a handful of small to medium cams allows you to protect between the well-spaced bolts. Many ways to climb this -- all pumpy as hell!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Golden Slumber (5.10d)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: May 22, 2002

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Comments: Just for the record: I did the first ascent of this route sometime in 2000 with Dave Goldstein, entirely on natural gear. We thought it was 5.10+ or easy 5.11, and we would have given it an S rating for the loose rock near the bottoms and the sketchy traverse into the corner, past what is now the third bolt. I didn't name it.

I climbed right of Bob's line after the third bolt, staying in the obvious corners. In my opinion, this is more fun and logical climbing than the way it is bolted, ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Otis Peak : Zowie : South Face (5.8+)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 16, 2002

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Comments: Oh, the West Face of Zowie route I described above is 5.8 or 5.9.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Otis Peak : Zowie : South Face (5.8+)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Apr 16, 2002

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Comments: Since George mentioned my variation, Kate Bartlett and I climbed a fine variation to the initial pitches on the South Face, in 1996 I think. It climbs the flatiron-like face to the right of the obvious left-facing corner on the right side of the south face. (Rossiter has it going up the corner -- this isn't what we climbed, though it looks OK.) What we climbed was a pitch and a half of fun, somewhat run-out 5.8 face climbing -- no scarier than the offwidth at the top of the route. Start ... more >>


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